My social life revolves around the pub, el/le bar or das Gasthaus. Wherever I have lived – Australia, France, Germany, Spain, UK – the local hostelry has always been the place to meet people and to find out what’s going on; what’s for sale; where are the best places to visit; anything at all, in fact.
[Photo: Freepik]
When I could legally drink alcohol, aged 18, I was living in a village called Alphington just outside Exeter (Devon). It had two pubs, The Admiral Vernon and The New Inn.
Pubs in Alphington, Ide and Exeter
The family moved from Barnstaple (North Devon) to Exeter when I was 13 (1963). We moved to Alphington, near Exeter, in 1967. I was a sixth-former at the time and would leave for university the following year. My dad liked a drink and the conviviality of the pub, so he was quite pleased to get his elder son as a legal drinking companion.
The Admiral Vernon, Alphington – My dad’s local after we moved to Alphington. The Admiral Vernon was a typical unmodernised pub with a tap room (bar) and a snug (lounge). They served a decent pint, but I never found it very friendly or welcoming.
The New Inn, Alphington – The other pub in the village, this place was badly named. My recollection is that it was old and tatty. We went more often to the Admiral Vernon. It was cosier.
The Admiral Vernon, Alphington [Photo: Exeter Memories]
The Poacher’s Inn, Ide, near Exeter – Scrumpy was 3d a pint – brilliant! Very popular with Exeter University students attracted by the cheap alcohol!
The Turk’s Head, Exeter – Claims to be the smallest pub in England. Very nice atmosphere, although I haven’t been for years.
The Poacher's Inn, Ide The Turk's Head, Exeter
[Photo: Exeter Memories] [Photo: Facebook]
The Imperial, near Exeter St David’s Station – As a late teenager I used to go here for the open-mic folk club. A good night out. I see it’s now a Wetherspoon’s pub, so cheap beer, but whether the folk club still happens I have no idea.
Salford, Eccles and Greater Manchester
At 18 I went up North to university. What an eye-opener: great beer, which was cheap, and lovely, friendly, salt-of-the-earth people.
Several pubs in Eccles – I lived in digs in Eccles in my second year at university along with four other students. We went out most nights and tried several of the pubs. They were all good in their different ways. I can’t remember the names of the pubs, other than Ye Old Cheshire Cheese
Star Inn, Broughton, Salford – My pal Mel and I got a gig as the resident folk singers on a Thursday night. The landlord called us Hobson’s Choice. It’s where I met the girl who was to become my first wife – for 30 years. Jeryl was her name.
Union Bar, Salford University – Back then it was on the 3rd floor of Maxwell Building, pending the construction of the Students’ Union building. A good place to meet and pick up girls.
The Star Inn [Photo:Trip Advisor]
Cheetham Hill Sports Club, Manchester – I played hockey, tennis and squash here. 2nd team hockey, 1st six tennis and on the squash ladder.
Several pubs in Middleton, Gtr Manchester – I worked in Middleton for four years. My best mate John lived in the town. We were both Spanish teachers at Cardinal Langley Catholic High School. Middleton is a Lees town (John Willie Lees was a local brewery at that time).
Warrington, and other parts of Cheshire
Warrington used to be a brewing and a wire town, home to Greenall Whitley and Tetley, and important wire producers. But that’s going back a good few years. Greenall Whitley was taken over by Whitbread plc and soon closed. Tetley is also part of a conglomerate and now brews in Masham, Yorkshire.
I lived in Warrington for a quarter of a century.
The Pickering Arms, Thelwall (Cheshire) – The most unfriendly local I have ever come across. The nearest pub to where I lived for 25 years, it was most unwelcoming. I preferred …..
…..The Little Manor, Thelwall – a factor in us moving to Thelwall (Warrington) was the fact that just across the park from our house was a Boddington’s pub! Both Jeryl and I “lurved” a pint of Boddies!
The Spread Eagle, Lymm – Just about the only John Willie Lees pub outside of Middleton and Radcliffe. Very quaint and quintessentially English.
The Little Manor, Thelwall [Photo: WhatPub] The Spread Eagle, Lymm [Photo: TripAdvisor]
Red Lion, Stockton Heath
Popular community pub in the heart of the village, handy for public transport. A former Georgian coaching inn with separate vault and snug, Old Stables bar with two competition darts boards, courtyard with heaters and a large beer garden. There is a large screen showing sporting events in the main room. The pub regularly hosts live music and celebratory events throughout the year. Area winner in the Thwaites hospitality awards 2023. The Stockton Heath Playmakers used to go there after rehearsals and performances.
High Lane, Stockport – we had a canal boat moored here, so we got to know a few of the hostelries, which we frequented for a few years.
Warrington real ale pubs – There were several in the town centre, three of which I visited regularly.
Baden-Württemberg, Germany
I lived in this southern German Bundesland (state) for six months in the early 70s. I was a languages student on my year abroad and spent the time in Stuttgart working as a translator for Daimler-Benz AG, the makers of the prestigious Mercedes-Benz cars, coaches and lorries.
Nowadays, married to a German lady, who used to work in Knittlingen (B-W), and who has two children and four grandchildren living in the area, I go to this charming part of Germany at least once a year.
Schozacher Stuble, Talheim (Germany) - The first Gasthaus I went to when I visited Talheim for the first time with my German girlfriend Rita (now my wife of 14 years). It was rather fun - so much so, that we chose it for our base when we got married in Germany two years later.
Zur Steige, Talheim (Germany) – A hostelry next-door to my German daughter-in-law’s house in Talheim (Baden-Württemberg). Alas, it closed a few years back. Fascinating place back then. A real old-fashioned German pub. The local menfolk’s Schwäbisch dialect was incomprehensible, even though I have an honours degree in German and speak German at home most of the time! Thank God, I could converse with the landlady. She spoke proper German, even though she was Greek!
Ronda and the Serranía, Andalucía, Spain
I first discovered Ronda, the City of Dreams, in 2000 during a silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucía. My wife at that time, Jeryl, and I were both stunned and smitten by this mountainous area of southern Spain. So much so that a year later we bought an apartment in the town, and two years after that a tumbling-down house for me to do up.
Piso Blanco, Ronda [Photo: Paul Whitelock]
We were still living and working in the UK, so we used both properties as holiday rentals when we weren’t using them ourselves.
By 2005 I was early retired and divorced, and “stepping out” with another lady, Maude, who had bought a house in the centre. I did the house up, so lived in the town for long periods.
In 2008 my somewhat chaotic life sorted itself out when I met The Lovely Rita, a German living in Montejaque. I have lived in and around Ronda since then. Rita and I “jumped the broom” in 2010 and recently celebrated 14 years of marriage.
In that quarter of a century, I’ve got to know lots of bars. Here are my favourites:
Bodega San Francisco, Ronda – This was a great bar, with delicious tapas, and main meals at affordable prices. Paco and his English-speaking wife Paqui, became good friends. I even bought a house off them! (see above)
It’s still a great bar but they moved up into town several years ago. I don’t understand it and nor do most of the staff, who preferred it in the barrio.
Bar Benito, Ronda (closed) – This was my favourite bar in the Barrio de San Francisco when I bought my flat there in 2001. They were so friendly and welcoming. Sadly, Benito retired, and the bar is now closed.
Bar Restaurante El Almocábar, Ronda – In its day, one of the best restaurants in the whole of Ronda. Now under new management (Manolo the owner retired), it’s still worth a visit.
Irish bar (old) (closed) – As with Irish bars the word over, these are the places to meet people and find out information. This version was owned by a Swedish lady and run by an Argentinian, but fulfilled all the requirements. Sadly, it has been closed for many years.
Bar Faustino, Ronda (closed) – Opposite the old Irish Bar, this was a great locale with super tapas. When the couple who ran it split up, it was the beginning of the end.
Bar La Farola, Ronda – Also in the same vicinity as the previous two (closed) bars, La Farola still thrives on its mainly Spanish clientele. Open early in the morning, a great stop for coffee and a chupito (a shot).
Snack Bar Alegria, Ronda – This “sports-bar” has six screens which show all sports. I’ve enjoyed many a Champions League football match, Six Nations rugby game or a Formula One race here accompanied by a choice of good beers and tapas. Landlord Antonio is an avid Liverpool FC fan.
Bar La Melli, Montejaque – Twin runs this with the support of son Dani, husband Alonso and daughter Beatriz. A friendly, welcoming bar which serves great breakfasts.
Entre Ascuas, Montejaque – This is the bar of the Hotel Palacete de Mañara, run by husband-and-wife team Álvaro and Ana. Normally the first bar to open in the mornings in the village, it is all things to all men (and women).
Bar Rincón, Montejaque - A great little bar with tapas and raciones. Mine hosts are Antonio and Ani. Both from Montejaque they lived and worked in Knittlingen, the German twin town, for many years. Their two sons were born and went to school there. Juan is probably the only German-speaking builder in Montejaque, Broither Diego works with German tourists in Malaga City.
La Terraza, Montejaque (closed) – Arguably one of the best-ever bars in the village, it closed as a result of a dispute with the owner over rent. A real shame.
Bar El Encuentro, Benaoján – A frequent early-morning watering-hole for me over the last few years. Great coffee, chupitos and interesting people. Lunches are also very good.
Bar Stop, Estación de Benaojan – Now renamed Bar Ankanita since the retirement of former landlady Ani, this bar was and remains a great venue for an early morning coffee, breakfast and lunch. The menu del día at 12 euros is first class.
Bar El Encuentro, Benaojan Bar Ankanita, Benaojan Estacion
Hotel Ronda Valley (formerly Hotel Don Benito) – This is effectively my local, being just six minutes walk from my home in Fuente de la Higuera and two minutes by car. Open every day from 7 am till midnight, it’s a great mix of local agricultural workers and international hotel guests. I have many a great conversation with American, Canadian, Dutch, French, German, Portuguese and Scandinavian visitors. Also, with Antonio Mecánico, Antonio “Polvorilla”, Luis “Registro de Propiedad” and sundry vineyard workers, builders, and others.
Regular foreign residents include “posh” Englishman Nick, Hungarian wife Julia, Scottish Elaine and Irishman Tim, Scot David and German Dagmar. The genial bar staff include Argentinian Gastón, Uruguayan Andrea, plus local “girls” Caro, Eugenia, Maria 1 and Maria 2.
Venta La Vega, La Indiana – This roadside inn has had a few “owners” over the years, yet it remains a great place at any time of day. Mainly patronised by locals, there are also a few guiris, plus at weekends coaches full of Spaniards from elsewhere in Spain. Current boss is Manolo, a builder. My favourite was bbbbb from the Dominican Republic.
Bar Allioli, Jimera de Líbar – Originated by Yorkshireman Paul and his Danish wife Synnove, they have now retired. New owner Andrés has continued with the tradition of live music at weekends and reasonably priced food and drink. Right by the railway station. A great place to pass an afternoon, listening to great music, with the mountains as a backdrop.
Rita enjoying live music at Bar Allioli [Photo: Paul Whitelock]
© Diary of a Nobody
Photos:
Exeter Memories, Facebook, Freepik, Karl Smallman, Paul Whitelock, Trip Advisor, WhatPub
Tags:
Alphington, Andalucía, Barnstaple, Cheetham Hill Sports Club, Cheshire, City of Dreams, Diary of a Nobody, Eccles, Exeter, Gasthaus, Greater Manchester, Ide, Manchester, Maxwell Building, Ronda, Salford, Salford University, Serranía, Spain, Students’ Union, Union Bar, Warrington