I was in Ronda last Friday, sorting stuff out when I was caught short. Unbelievably I found a parking space right outside a bar. OK, I thought, a quick beer, use the toilet and carry on.

Las Caballerías

In I went. It was a bar I’d never visited in a 25-year relationship with Ronda (16 as a resident).

Well, I must tell you, I was knocked out! What a locale, full of well-heeled Spanish locals, great decor and what an ambience!

I managed to get a table, ordered a tercio de Mahou and promptly visited the gents.

Back at the table I cast an eye over the menu, and I was astonished. What an offer! No wonder it was full of locals.

BTW, I was the only “guiri”.

I was hungry, so I decided to order something to eat. I chose una brocheta de gambas con beicon. It cost 4 euros, but, hey!

When it came, it was well presented and delicious.

By this time, I was well into the atmosphere. I read a few reviews on TripAdvisor on my mobile. All good.

I decided to linger, have a second beer and another tapa. This time I went for hígado de pollo. Ay, ¡Caramba! It was amazing.

The waitress was also amazing! I engaged her in conversation and established that Las Caballerias is a family business.

Mari Tere is the daughter of the current owner, although the history of the bar goes back decades.

She told me that all the staff were family. Brilliant! And they own the premises, so they won’t be going bust any time soon, with no rent to pay.

We took a selfie. Here it is. She looks great; I’m showing my age!

The bill for two great tapas and two tasty beers came to a mere 12,90 euros.

Bar Las Caballerías has rocketed into my top 3!

I’ll be back there soon, for sure!

© The "Guiri" Gourmet

Interesting links:

PLACES TO EAT - Help me, Ronda

Serranía Kitchen - recipes from around the world

What is a guiri? It's what the Spanish call us foreigners - but is it good or bad?

What is a guiri? - Olive Press News Spain

Photos:

All photos by The "Guiri" Gourmet (Paul Whitelock)

Tags:

Bar Restaurante Las Caballerías, brocheta de gambas con beicon, caught short, ”guiri”, "Guiri" Gourmet, hígado de pollo, Mahou, Mari Tere, Paul Whitelock, Ronda, selfie, tapa, tercio, Trip Advisor

By The "Guiri" Gourmet

We enjoyed two great hostelry experiences this week. First of all, I popped into Benaoján’s newest bar/restaurant and then the following day we had dinner at one of our favourite restaurants in Ronda.

Something old

Let’s start with the old. By that I mean a restaurant that has just celebrated its 19^th anniversary since opening its doors in 2005. We have been regulars for more than 13 years, ever since we moved into our house just up the road.

A former olive and flour mill, dating from the 17^th century, Restaurante La Cascada at the Hotel Molino del Puente in Fuente de la Higuera in the campo just outside Ronda, is a cut above many. It boasts 13 unique, stylish and romantic bedrooms and has a swimming pool.

    Before and after photos of Hotel Molino del Puente [Ian Love and KAYAK] 

Owned and run by English couple Ian and Elaine Love, this is a 3-star boutique hotel with a fine restaurant on the lower ground floor.

Ian, the chef, has recently retired from the kitchen. “Too old,” he says and now concentrates on running his newly established estate agency LOVE VIVIENDAS with middle daughter Carly. He also helps out behind the bar and as a waiter in the evenings.

    Tom, Carly, Megan with baby Sofia, Elaine, Ian, Robyn and husband Gianluca

Ian's replacement in the kitchen is Tom O’Connor, Carly’s partner. Tom is a trained chef with experience on the Costa del Sol and in Tenerife. Carly and Tom have a little girl, Sofia.

The hotel and restaurant are about to close for the winter, so we hastily booked for Friday night. As usual we were not disappointed.

Portions are generous at La Cascada, so we shared a salad to start. There was no salad on the menu, but Elaine said they could make us one up. The impromptu salad was delicious with prawns and cashew nuts and a tasty dressing.    .

For main courses Rita chose filete de salmon fresco con espinacas, salsa de vino blanco y patatas gratinadas and I went for pechuga de pollo Hindu marinada en especias indias con arroz basmati y raita. I'd not had that before and I was delighted with my choice. So was Rita. We cleared our plates. Postre was a slice of tarta de queso casero which we also shared.

We were both more than full.

To accompany our food Rita had a cava and I had a beer (Estrella Galicia on draught), then we chose a bottle of Verdejo – delicious.

After our meal it was still early so we adjourned to the bar for digestifs. Rita had two more glasses of cava, and I risked a couple of coñacs. I say “risked” because the last time I drank brandy, some three years ago, I ended up in hospital! The less said about that the better. Needless to say, from that day on I’ve never touched spirits again – until last Friday night. I survived unscathed on this occasion.

Something new

A couple of days before, as I was returning from Montejaque, where I had gone after all the rain to check out our two rental houses (Casa Rita and Casa Real), I passed through Benaoján. I noticed that the new restaurant El Escalón was in operation.

I’d been waiting for months for it to open its doors – there was apparently a delay in getting their licencia de apertura (opening permit) from Málaga City.

The owner is Juan Diego who used to rent a bar up in the square. He closed that and went off to German twin-town Knittlingen to work for two years.

Long story short, they bought the three lock-up garages for a good price and turned into what is a very smart and stylish restaurant. Juan Diego’s mum, who is the cocinera, proudly showed me her brand-new spick and span kitchen.

    The facade of El Escalón, Juan Diego, the owner and a partial view of the restaurant [photos: Paul Whitelock]

There were a few people in there that I knew, including the former owner of the premises, builder Paco, who had done some work for us some years ago.

They have a great beer on draught, El Águila (Madrid), so I had a couple with a dish of very tasty olives, and I was good to go.

Somewhere to take Rita sometime soon.

© The "Guiri" Gourmet

Links to other articles:

Back to the “Bridge” – St George’s Day

Marcus Myers leads birthday celebrations at Ronda restaurant

BAR EL ESCALÓN, Benaojan - Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Phone Number - Tripadvisor

Contacts:

Restaurante La Cascada 

(+34) 952 87 41 64 

info@hotelmolinodelpuente.com

https://www.hotelmolinodelpuente.com/

English, French and Spanish spoken

          ***

El Escalón

(+34) 633 83 68 63

          ***

Love Viviendas Estate Agency

(+34) 619 056 055

info@loveviviendas.com

https://loveviviendas.com

English and Spanish spoken

          ***

Casa Real and Casa Rita

(+34) 636 52 75 16 

info@a1-holidays.net

CASA REAL, Montejaque (Malaga) - Help me, Ronda

Casa Rita Holiday Rental Montejaque - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Enquiries welcome in English, Deutsch, español, français

Photos:

Ian Love, Karl Smallman, Molino del Puente, Paul Whitelock

Tags:

Benaoján, casero, cava, coñac, Costa del Sol, El Águila, Elaine Love, El Escalón, Estrella Galicia, filete de salmón, Fuente de la Higuera, "Guiri" Gourmet, Hotel Molino del Puente, Ian Love, Juan Diego, Karl Smallman, Knittlingen, La Cascada, licencia de apertura, Love Viviendas, Málaga, Montejaque, opening permit, Paul Whitelock, pechuga de pollo Hindu, swimming pool, postre, raita, Rita, Ronda, something new, something old, tarta de queso, Tenerife, Tom O’Connor, trained chef, twin town, verdejo

The well-known musician, formerly a member of the band Alisha’s Attic*, lives nowadays in Cortes de la Frontera (Málaga).

On Sunday 25 August 2024 Marcus Myers performed live for diners at Restaurante La Cascada at Hotel Molino del Puente, Ronda, to celebrate the hotel’s 19^th birthday.

Preamble

Owners Ian and Elaine Love left their successful restaurant, Harbour Lights in Cabopino, to move inland to offer their three young daughters a more authentic experience of Spain, away from the mass tourism of the coast.

To that end they bought a disused corn mill and spent some three years getting it renovated into the charming riverside hotel and restaurant it has now become.

It’s been one of our favourite eating places since the Meter Maid and I moved to live in Fuente de la Higuera thirteen years ago.

In those 19+ years the Love family has grown up. All three girls attended state schools in Ronda and as a result are bilingual.

Robyn Love is a marine biologist based in Scotland and is married to Gianlucca Gerich from Germany. He is also a marine biologist. They met at university in Cádiz. They are often away onboard a ship somewhere in the world studying the marine environment.

Carly Love is an estate agent by profession. She also owned and ran a successful restaurant in Puerto de la Cruz (Tenerife) for a few years, together with her novio Tom O'Connor, a trained chef. Since the birth of their daughter Sofia, they have returned to the mainland and now live in Ronda.

Carly has gone into partnership with her dad Ian to establish their own estate agency, Love Viviendas, with their office at the hotel. Ian has retired from the kitchen of La Cascada in favour of son-in-law Tom, who has continued to maintain the high standards of comida casera (home-made cuisine).  Ian is now “on the road” selling properties. He also helps out as barman and waiter in the restaurant.

Megan Love, the youngest daughter, has just finished her degree in Public Relations at Málaga University, and now works as a PR consultant in the city, but she is often to be seen in La Cascada, helping out if need be.

As for mum Elaine Love, she now runs the hotel and restaurant single-handedly. (I suspect she always did!)

Birthday “do”

A trained plumber, Marcus Myers no longer needs to get his hands dirty fitting pipes and mending washing machines, as he earns his living from singing and playing guitar around the area.

As well as a soloist with some 200 songs in his repertoire, he is front man for the rock group Equis, who play a different kind of music altogether.

On this night, Marcus entertained us with his cover versions of classics from the 60s and 70s. The Beatles featured heavily, as did Simon and Garfunkel. There was also material from Neil Diamond, The Rolling Stones, The Kinks, The Eagles, Louis Armstrong and many other recognisable musicians of that era.

The audience was mixed with local guiris, as well as guests of the hotel and two others nearby, mainly Spaniards, but not exclusively.

One table of six seemed to be enjoying themselves hugely, singing along and dancing.

When I spoke to them afterwards, they told me they were visitors from the Cádiz area and they had never heard Marcus before. They were very impressed. The main cheerleader, Antonio, is a soldier based with the American forces in Rota (Cádiz). He is about to be deployed to Ukraine.

Two of the women in the group were born in Germany of Spanish parents, one in Essen and the other in Dortmund. They are, of course, bilingual (I can vouch for that as we spoke German together for a while).

Our Meal

While Marcus was performing, everybody was eating and drinking.

Rita and I each chose a starter: gambas al pil-pil for Rita and gazpacho for me.

We opted for a main course to share – a mixed barbecue grill of three meats, morcilla and chorizo with a huge grilled green pepper, corn-on-the-cob and French fries.

We were pleasantly replete yet still found space to share a tarta de queso con nata y helado de vainilla.

The whole meal was delicious, washed down with still water and a nice bottle of Ribera del Duero from Burgos.

Thank you, Rita (she paid the bill!). A “consolation gift” as she heads off to Germany in a couple of days to care for her sister who has just had an operation.

Leaving me “de Rodríguez”!*

Epilogue

A very enjoyable and relaxing evening with great music, delicious food and good company.

¡Feliz cumpleaños, Hotel Molino del Puente!

© The Culture Vulture and The "Guiri" Gourmet

Links:

Alisha's Attic - Wikipedia

... de Rodríguez? - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Marcus Myers Music

What is a guiri? It's what the Spanish call us foreigners - but is it good or bad? (secretserrania.com)

Photos:

Hotel Molino del Puente

HotelSearch.com

Karl Smallman

KAYAK

marcusmyersmusic.com 

Paul Whitelock

Tags:

19^th birthday, Alisha’s Attic, Beatles, bilingual, birthday “do”, Burgos, Cabopino, Cádiz, Carly Love, chorizo, classics from the 60s and 70s, comida casera, corn-on-the-cob, Cortes de la Frontera, De Rodriguez, Dortmund, Elaine Love, Essen, estate agent, Feliz cumpleaños, French fries, Fuente de la Higuera, gambas al pil-pil, gazpacho, Germany, Gianlucca, green pepper, “Guiri” Gourmet, Harbour Lights, Hotel Molino del Puente, Ian and Elaine Love, Karl Smallman, La Cascada, Louis Armstrong, Love Viviendas, Málaga, Málaga University, Marcus Myers, marine biologist, Megan Love, Meter Maid, mixed barbecue grill, morcilla, Neil Diamond, Paul Whitelock, plumber, Public Relations, PR consultant, Puerto de la Cruz, Ribera del Duero, Robyn Love, rock group Equis, Rolling Stones, Rota (Cádiz), Scotland, Simon and Garfunkel, Sofia, tarta de queso con nata y helado de vainilla, The Eagles, Tenerife, Tom O'Connor, Ukraine, What is a guiri?

One of the most famous bars in Málaga City, El Pimpi, was established in 1970. It has become the “must-see” bodega in the provincial capital. I’ve been a few times over the years, and it’s always packed. The last time we went with two friends we managed to find a table outside on the terrace, but could we get served? After 20 minutes and no sign of a waiter, we left and found somewhere quieter.

El Pimpi

El Pimpi is a traditional, poky, yet massive, Andalusian tavern with entrances on two streets. The décor is traditional with old oak barrels, paraphernalia, hanging hams and a bullfighting theme. The atmosphere is electric, and so are the prices. But it’s a good place to visit for a beer or a glass of wine and a tapa. I must confess I like El Pimpi.

As of this Friday, we won’t have to travel all the way to Málaga; we can pop down to Marbella, where an outpost of the famous bodega opens inside the Hotel Puente Romano.

The “new” El Pimpi

In an article in Diario SUR last week, entitled El Pimpi lleva sus barriles y su esencia a Marbella, journalist Juan Soto wrote:

“El Pimpi brings its barrels and its special essence to Marbella and the Costa del Sol, where it has just opened its first establishment outside the capital. The tavern has been set up inside the Puente Romano hotel.”

The new wine bar is much more chic than the original, with a small bar area for tapas (for the moment only for a few hours a day) and a wide gastronomic offer.

The presentation of the new establishment, which took place a week ago, was held to the rhythm of flamenco and was attended by the actor Antonio Banderas from Malaga, who is a business partner of the wine bar.

On a gastronomic level, the range of food at the new premises will be similar to that offered in Malaga. El Pimpi Marbella will offer product, service and tradition at the same level of its big brother.

"This bar will be the starting point for its customers to experience the flavour and history of Malaga with the best seal of approval in a unique environment", he said.

On the menu are classics such as prawns with Pim-pi (24 euros), fried aubergines with honey (15 euros) or an assortment of Andalusian cheeses (30 euros), seafood dishes such as fried anchovies or marinated dogfish (18 euros each) or meats. Connoisseurs will be able to enjoy organic caviar from Riofrío (150 euros).

In Love from a Young Age

During the presentation, Antonio Banderas recalled his love affair with El Pimpi from the time he went for the first time at 9 years of age up to the present day.

"I used to take my first girlfriend to dinner at El Pimpi; I shot a film there, The English Way, and I practically live on top of the place."

He told his audience that El Pimpi had not chosen Puente Romano, but the other way around, since those in charge of the complex are very demanding when it comes to choosing their collaborators.

"A lot of the best restaurants in the world are concentrated in Marbella, but one of the things it lacked was Spanish and Andalusian food," he concluded.

Talking about this new Malaga-Marbella idyll, Daniel Shamoon, co-director of Puente Romano, acknowledged that they have been doing new things for many years, bringing international brands to Marbella, but that they lacked the beating heart of the Andalusian people. And to achieve all that, El Pimpi "is perfect."

«Para mi ha sido la mejor decisión de todas; traer el corazón andaluz a Puente Romano». ("For me it was the best decision of all; to bring the Andalusian heart to Puente Romano.")

The presentation ceremony was also attended by the mayor of Marbella, Ángeles Muñoz, who said:

"If there is something that Hotel Puente Romano lacked, it was that soul that El Pimpi brings; a place with a unique zero-kilometre raw material."

Epilogue

Bodegas El Pimpi has been a benchmark in the city since it opened its doors in August 1971. More than half a century later, the business project started by businessmen and friends Francisco Campos and Pepe Cobos employs more than 200 people.

A visit soon to El Pimpi Marbella is on the cards.

© The “Guiri” Gourmet

Acknowledgements:

A1 Translations

Diario SUR

El Pimpi

Juan Soto

Paul Whitelock

Tags:

A1 Translations, Ángeles Muñoz, Antonio Banderas, Bodegas El Pimpi, Costa del Sol, Daniel Shamoon, Diario SUR, El Pimpi, Francisco Campos, “Guiri” Gourmet, Hotel Puente Romano, Juan Soto, Malaga, Marbella, Paul Whitelock, Pepe Cobos

The railway line from Algeciras to Ronda and beyond runs through the Guadiaro valley. As a result several “new” settlements developed adjacent to the line which ostensibly were to serve the old Arab villages up the hill. So, Gaucín has Estación de Gaucín ( El Colmenar), Cortes de la Frontera has Estación de Cortes, also known as Cañada del Real Tesoro, Jimera de Líbar has Estación de Jimera de Líbar and Montejaque and Benaojan have Estación de Benaoján.

It is this latter “settlement”, which is the subject of this article.

Foreword

Estación de Benaoján, population 1,437 (2023), is possibly unique, in that every hostelry is exceptional for its type. As you drop down the hill from Montejaque and Benaoján, you discover an amazing choice right by the station.

La Cantina

The bar at the station is small and basic, but they have tapas and drinks, all at reasonable prices. A very pleasant spot to sit while waiting for your train, or at the beginning or end of a hike through the valley.

Restaurante El Muelle

As the name suggests this is a converted railway shed* at the far end of the platform. This place is for carnivores; there are no vegetarian or vegan options. The meat is prepared in/on a wood oven.

Cristóbal, the chef, and wife, Gina, front of house, offer a warm welcome and great value-for-money with large portions and reasonable prices.

Bar Ankanita

Back to the road junction opposite the stationand we have Bar Ankanita (previously Bar Stop).

This is a very popular place for breakfast and lunch. It doesn’t open on the evenings. The menu del día for 12€ is outstanding. It’s best to book, or you might be disappointed.

It is normally full of workers from the local ham factory, as well as locals and the cognoscenti amongst the foreigners who live in the area.

Diego, the head waiter, and XXX, the chef, used to work at the excellent Hotel Molino del Santo in the village, but they fell out with the owners and took over this bar when Ani retired.

Bar La Esquina

Also here, in the former offices of Serranía Eléctrica, is Bar La Esquina. The bar has the best toilet I have seen in these parts.

It also has interesting posters, slogans and sayings on the walls.

Owner Carmen offers a range of quality beers and great tapas.

Hotel Molino del Santo

Finally, tucked away by the river, we come to the afore-mentioned Hotel Molino del Santo and its very classy restaurant.

Some 40 years ago it was a dilapidated olive mill. It was spotted by a couple of young teachers from England who were holidaying in the area. Pauline, a Spanish teacher, and Andy, a PE teacher, promptly bought it, left teaching and emigrated.

They did it up and turned it into one of the most popular bijou hotels in the valley.

Andy and Pauline retired a couple of years ago and the hotel and restaurant are now in the hands of Juan, half Argentinian, half English, and his French wife, Brigitte.

This restaurant was always a class act and still is. All the staff are local people, which ensures that the Spanish as well as international guests feel at home here.

For us pensioners it’s expensive, but we do go for special occasions, like birthdays or anniversaries, or when we have family staying with us. My kids Amy and Tom love it as their young children can play safely with no dangerous road nearby.

Epilogue

Estación de Benaoján, the only place I know where every hostelry is excellent. I frequent them all.

© The “Guiri” Gourmet

*There are a good few restaurants housed in old railway sheds. Look here:

BARS AND RESTAURANTS AT RAILWAY STATIONS AROUND RONDA AND THE GUADIARO VALLEY (eyeonspain.com)

Acknowledgements:

A1 Inmobiliaria

Facebook

HRS

Karl Smallman

Secret Serrania

Tags:

A1 Inmobiliaria, Asador El Muelle, Bar Ankanita, Bar Stop, Benaoján, El Muelle, Estación de Benaoján, Facebook, “Guiri” Gourmet, HRS, Karl Smallman, La Cantina, La Esquina, Molino del Puente, Montejaque, Secret Serrania

By The "Guiri" Gourmet

On St George’s Day, April 23, The Meter Maid and I dined at Restaurante La Cascada, the restaurant at Hotel Molino del Puente in Fuente de la Higuera, Ronda.

It was our first meal there for a while. Why? Mind your own business!

Suffice to say that the food was as good as ever, despite the fact that joint owner and chef, Ian Love, has retired from the kitchen.

New head chef

Cooking duties at the “Bridge” are now safely in the hands of "son-in-law" Tom O'Connor, a trained chef with substantial experience on the Costa del Sol and in Tenerife (Canary Islands).

Tom is pictured right with owners Ian and Elaine Love and daughter Carly Love, director of real estate agency Love Viviendas.

Rita and I sat outside on the sheltered terrace by the river Guadalcobacín for drinks and our starters, but, when the sun set and it turned quite chilly, we moved inside.

Several other diners followed suit.

Our “St George’s Day” meal

Rita started with a refreshing ensalada de pollo, tomates secos y anacardos and “mained” on filete de salmón fresco Tandoori.

I opted for two starters: falafel de garbanzos con raita and then tarta rellena de champiñones, puerro y aceite de trufa con ensalada.

For dessert we shared a home-made tarta de queso.

Drinks-wise I had two beers before the meal and two glasses of Vizcondesa, a Ronda red wine from Bodega Joaquín Fernandez. Rita had a cava to celebrate el Día de San Jorge (patron saint of England, Cataluña, Aragón and other countries and cities around the world), and then agua sin gas. Too much alcohol gives Rita gout and exacerbates the arthritis in her hands.

Our verdict?

The food was excellent as always. I thoroughly enjoyed both of my courses. Delicious and just the right quantities for me.

Rita was also pleased with her choices.

Our waiter was Ian, no longer in the kitchen, but having to “muck in” under the direction of the real boss, his wife Elaine Love.

© Paul Whitelock

Acknowledgements (Photos):

Ian Love

Karl Smallman

Paul Whitelock

vivino.com

Interesting Links:

www.help-me-ronda.com

www.hotelmolinodelpuente.com

www.loveviviendas.com

www.secretserrania.com

Tags:

agua sin gas, Aragón, Bodega Joaquín Fernández, Carly Love, Cataluña, cava, Día de San Jorge, Elaine Love, England, Fuente de la Higuera, Guadalcobacín, Guiri gourmet, Hotel Molino del Puente, Ian Love, Karl Smallman, Love Viviendas, Meter Maid, Paul Whitelock, Restaurante La Cascada, Rita, Ronda red wine, Tom O'Connor, Vizcondesa

No, not a feast of Mars bars! We invited our friends from Malta round for an evening meal! People from this Mediterranean island that lies between Italy and North Africa are called “Maltesers”, aren’t they?

The “Maltesers”

John and Lorraine are the latest guiris (foreigners) to buy a house in Montejaque. Their house is just 50 metres from Casa Rita, my wife’s place there.

I bumped into them last year when they were house-hunting and several times since, and The Meter Maid has met them a couple of times independently of me. We get on very well. John is an avid reader of my website, www.help-me-ronda.com, so that makes him OK too!

So, on the evening of April Fools’ Day, we invited them to our home in Fuente de la Higuera for a meal.

Arrival, aperitif and starter

They got to us at 6.00 pm. The weather had fortunately improved; instead of the rain and wind of the last week or so, we had bright sunshine, and plenty of daylight, as we’d move the clocks forward the previous day.

So we sat on the front terrace as the sun went down and had our aperitifs and the first course, spicy Maissuppe, sopa de maiz, sweetcorn soup. That went down a treat.

As we drained the last drops from our bowls, it suddenly went cool as the setting sun disappeared behind a cloud. So, we adjourned to the dining room indoors.

Main course and dessert

Next up it was a speciality of Rita’s: paella de mariscos, seafood paella.

Accompanied by a choice of wines, namely a refreshing bone-dry verdejo from Rueda and a young red from Utiel-Requeña, a tempranillo.

Our preference went along gender lines, oddly. White for the ladies and red for the men. Perfect.

After a short break, it was pudding time. Rita had conjured up a zabaglione, which was amazing!

Conversation

We chatted non-stop the whole time, except while we were eating our dessert, which took our breath away.

We covered many topics, but mainly we talked about Malta, where I had been three times many years ago, including for my first honeymoon in 1975. We also talked about our guests’ plans for the future. They want to move to Spain, to this area, and upgrade to a larger house with a garden and pool.

Lorraine is really keen and John has had enough of his home country, which he feels has been overrun with refugees and other incomers in recent years.

We also talked about practicalities, such as writing a Spanish Will, and buying a car.

They both like the variety of Spain, the cuisine, the landscapes and the architecture, as well as the friendliness of the local people.

Coffee and farewells

After an espresso and more chat we parted company, with a tentative agreement to do a tapeo in Ronda, when they return to Spain in a couple of months time.

© The “Guiri” Gourmet

Further links:

April Fool! (eyeonspain.com)

DE TAPEO IN RONDA (eyeonspain.com)

N.B. Notary Bene (eyeonspain.com)

Where there’s a WILL … the process in Spain - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Acknowledgements (photos):

Chefkoch

Karl Smallman (Secret Serrania)

La Vanguardia

Mars confectionery

Mundo deportivo

Shutterstock

Tags:

Aperitif, April Fools’ Day, arrival, buying a car, Casa Rita, dessert,  Fuente de la Higuera, “Guiri” Gourmet, Karl Smallman, main course, Maissuppe, Malta, maltesers, Mars, Mediterranean island, Montejaque, paella de mariscos, pudding, Ronda, Rueda, seafood paella, sopa de maiz, starter, sweetcorn soup, tapeo, tempranillo, The Meter Maid, Utiel-Requeña, verdejo, writing a Spanish Will, zabaglione

History of a Ronda tapa

8 October 2020

By The "Guiri" Gourmet

Photo: Panaderia Polvillo

The exquisite ´serranito´ from Ronda is over thirty years old. Inventor Benito González managed to make this tapa a culinary masterpiece, using pork fillet, peppers, ripe tomatoes fresh from the garden and tasty ham.

History

In 1974, when Tobalo González opened ´Bar Benito´, in the popular San Francisco neighbourhood of Ronda, it was not very common for customers to ask for a tapa.

“Here the farmworkers and the builders’ labourers came and ordered a coffee, a brandy or a glass of wine, but nobody asked for anything to eat,” he said.

But over the years everything changed. His son Benito took over the bar and prepared a complete tapas menu, including ham, cheese, fried fish, scrambled eggs and other delicious delicacies from the Ronda area.

Things worked out well and the tables were filled daily with people keen to eat the best produce from the gardens and farms in the area. But as with everything, you have to keep looking for new ideas.

                                                                                                                       Plaza Ruedo Alameda, Barrio San Francisco, Ronda

[Photo: callejeroderonda.net]

Inspiration

One day in 1990, Benito was eating in a restaurant in Sevilla and they served him a plate of steaks, fried peppers, tomato and several slices of ham. As you would expect, it was very tasty and then the idea occurred to him: “What if I put all this in a bread roll and offer it as a tapa?”

How the serranito took off

No sooner said than done. As soon as Benito trialled the first ones, they were an immediate hit and customers began to order what became known as the ´serranito´, a complete and very reasonably-priced tapa, bearing in mind that they normally cost around 1.50 euros [probably a bit more in 2024].

In the hot summer months, Benito would shift up to 400 serranitos a week and there were even foreign tourists who had heard about them and came to ​​try one.

In addition, the tapa spread to most of the bars in Ronda and to many bars and restaurants throughout Andalucía.

Photo: Trip Advisor

Essentials

To prepare a good serranito you need to bear in mind several important things. First, that the fillet must be from the pork loin; then, that the oil must be virgin olive oil; and the tomatoes must be just ripe. Finally, if the pepper comes from the fields at the bottom of the Tajo, so much the better.

Another thing to bear in mind when preparing an authentic serranito is to use a good quality bread roll baked in Ronda.

Photo: Wikipedia

Author’s note: When I first came to Ronda in 2001, having bought a little flat in the Barrio San Francisco, I introduced myself as a new vecino in the Bar Benito. I was given such a warm welcome by Benito and his regular customers that it became my local whenever I was in town. Sadly, Bar Benito is now closed. Benito retired.

© The “Guiri” Gourmet

Note: An early version of this article first appeared in 2020 here: History of a Ronda tapa - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Acknowledgements:

callejeroderonda.net

Karl Smallman

Panaderia Polvillo

Paul Whitelock

Secret Serrania

Trip Advisor

Wikipedia

Tags:

Andalucía, Bar Benito, Barrio San Francisco, Benito, Benito Gonzalez, callejeroderonda.net, fillet, “Guiri” Gourmet, History of a Ronda tapa, Karl Smallman, Panaderia Polvillo, Paul Whitelock, pepper, pork loin, Ronda, Secret Serrania, serranito, Sevilla, Tobalo Gonzalez, tomatoes, Trip Advisor, virgin olive oil, Wikipedia

4 March 2023

By The "Guiri" Gourmet

Tapear is all about the tapas, whereas an English pub crawl is all about the beer. For older English folk it’s about sampling a range of cask ales, easy to do in the northwest of England where I used to live. For younger people it’s about guzzling as much disgusting lager or IPA as possible to get as p****d as possible.

Whilst I have to confess that I’ve participated in both English versions in my time, I much prefer the Spanish option. Much more civilised and more enjoyable. 

New places to try

So, off we went to Ronda. Rather than go to the tried and tested bars we know from over a decade and a half of living here, we decided to try out new places.

We started at Bar Mimanuela in Plaza Carmen Abela. It used to be a jeweller’s but since the pandemic it has opened as a rather stylish but unpretentious café bar with a lovely terrace outside the Caja Rural.

A beer and two tapas each for 13 euros was perfectly acceptable. Rita chose snails (caracoles) and mejillones. I had alcachofas con jamón and anchoa cantábrica.

                                                                                                                                                                           Photo: The Olive Press

Well-presented and delicious. The owners are delightful.                                             

Inside they have a permanent exhibition of paintings by Elaine Moore, a Scottish artist long resident in Ronda and a good friend of ours.

                                                                                                                                        Photo: Elaine Moore

Serendipity - bumping into people

We then shuffled up Calle Tiendas to Bar Bodeguita, also unknown to us. And guess who was sitting outside talking on his mobile? None other than Michael Coy, who was "to blame" for me meeting the Meter Maid (yes, you guessed it, the afore-mentioned Rita!) at the Feria de Pedro Romero in September 2008.                                

We hadn’t seen Michael for a while so after warm hugs (Rita, not me!) we joined him at his table. Serendipitously he had been on the phone to Malcolm, who is the husband of the artist Elaine Moore. They were on their way to join us! ¡Qué coincidencia!

Another friend, Hilde from Belgium, was also on her way.

At the table next to us I recognised María, a customer of one of my locals, Venta El Puente in La Indiana.

After a beer and a tapa and some catching up, Rita and I moved on to Tapería La Flamenka, which in a previous incarnation had been my internet café of choice back in the day before smartphones and WiFi at home.

The terrace was full, so we sat at a table for two just inside the door. I kept noticing this fat, long-haired, old guy sitting opposite a beautiful, elegantly dressed septuagenarian lady!

Oh! Blimey! They were us reflected in a mirror!

Also in that bar was Eduardo, another customer from Venta El Puente. Guess who he was with -  Nerea, a waitress from said bar. It was the bar’s dia de descanso. I later established that Nerea and Eduardo are an item. 

The tapas here were arguably the best so far. Again, we had two each plus a drink. 12 euros.                                                                                                                                

Photo: Trip Advisor

Next up was El Almacén. The last time I’d been there was that fateful night with Michael in 2008 when I later met Rita. It was under different management back then. I gather it’s now the hottest place in town.

We had a beer and a tapa each – 7 euros.

It was now quite late, so we decided to head for home. On our way back to the car we passed Pizzería Michelangelo. Sitting outside were Manolo (El Corcho) and his wife Carmen, the owners of Venta el Puente, the local I mentioned earlier. 

What a great night we had spent de tapeo por Ronda.

I must add that Rita’s beers were cervezas sin, as she was driving. 

© The "Guiri" Gourmet

Note:

This is an improved version of an article that was originally posted, without photos, at De tapeo en Ronda (eyeonspain.com)

Links:

Days of (Ronda) Wine… and Roses - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Early morning coffee in Spain - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Eat out to help out in Spain! - Secret Serrania de Ronda

History of a Ronda tapa - Secret Serrania de Ronda

LOCAL AUTHORS - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

MEET THE 'LOCALS' - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

RONDA PEOPLE - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)
 

Acknowledgements:

Elaine Moore

Eye on Spain

Paul Whitelock

The Olive Press

Trip Advisor

Wikipedia

www.help-me-ronda.com 

Tags:

alcachofas con jamón, anchoa cantábrica, Bar Bodeguita, Bar La Flamenka, Bar Mimanuela, beer, Caja Rural, Calle Tiendas,  caracoles, cask ales, cervezas sin, de tapeo por Ronda, Elaine Moore, El Almacén, Eye on Spain, Feria de Pedro Romero, "Guiri" Gourmet, internet café, La Indiana, mejillones, Meter Maid, Michael Coy, Olive Press, Paul Whitelock, Pizzería Michelangelo, Plaza Carmen Abela, pub crawl, snails, tapas, tapear, Trip Advisor, Venta El Puente, Wikipedia