Tapas are a culinary tradition in almost all of Andalusia, but in Granada they have mastered this art of bringing gastronomy to the small plate like nowhere else. Perhaps it is because eating well is necessary to have enough energy to explore the countless nooks to be found around this city. Granada is a marathon where you can enjoy every step as in no other place. In fact, this is how Lorca defined it: "Granada is fit for sleeping and dreaming, everywhere bounded by the indescribable...”.
The typical olives and almonds were long ago relegated to Granada's history. In Granada's bars these days they compete to offer the most flavoursome, original and generous tapa with each drink. So ordering a wine, a vermouth, a small glass of beer or a soft drink always comes with its reward.
Granada is a city to get to know on foot, to get lost in its narrow alleys and to explore every corner, where you are sure to find the best spots with the most surprising tapas. A good place to start your tour is the Realejo district, the city's former Jewish quarter. Around Campo del Príncipe there are terraces and bars to have delicious tapas made from ham, cheese, fried fish, omelettes or patatas a lo pobre (poor man's potatoes, fried with peppers and eggs). La Esquinita is a bar not to be missed there, especially its artichokes sautéed with baby squid and prawns. Finger-licking good!
Around the cathedral you can also find two areas with plenty of bars: the Gran Vía and the streets surrounding the City Hall. Between Gran Vía de Colón and Plaza Nueva you will find some of the most popular bars in Granada, many located around Calle Elvira. This small artery through the city centre is a real focal point for tapas fans. It leaves you in Plaza Nueva, the central axis of the old quarter, built over a vault spanning the Darro River. From here you can continue down Carrera del Darro, parallel to the river, which empties into Paseo del Padre Manjón, an area full of outdoor seating with views of the Alhambra: a must-stop in good weather. Calle Navas begins at City Hall; it is a pedestrian area for having something to eat away from the bustle and traffic. Tapas featuring tripe, fried baby broad beans with ham, chunky migas (fried bread, garlic and oil) and papas a lo pobre (poor man's potatoes, fried with peppers and eggs) are some of the area specialities. A good tapas option here is Los Diamantes, where trying the fried fish is a must.
The narrow alleys that start at the riverbank bring you into the heart of the Albaicín, the city's most emblematic neighbourhood with the best views of the Alhambra and declared a World Heritage Site. Although not a proper tapas area per se, it is home to some of the best and most emblematic restaurants in Granada.
For those with strength and hunger to burn, Sacromonte is worth a visit to try one of Granada's most typical dishes on site: the Sacromonte omelette. It is an original recipe of the abbey of the same name that contains sweetbreads and lamb testicles, which the abbot would offer to students very cheaply.
And if you don't mind venturing a little farther from the centre, there is the La Chana district, an area frequented by university students where the tapas are famous for being generous and cheap.