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Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

Quite simply writing about the best things Spain has to offer and anything that might crop up along the way. Spain is a lot more than just sun, sand and sea...

Trade Routes and Piracy in the Canary Islands
Saturday, January 18, 2025

Nestled in the Atlantic Ocean, the Canary Islands have always held a special place in maritime history. Following their conquest, these islands played a pivotal role in the advent of new trade routes and significant historical events. The strategically located archipelago became a crucial link between the Old World and the New World, facilitating commerce and cultural exchange. Additionally, the islands' temperate climate provided an ideal environment for acclimating exotic plants, which boosted local agriculture and economy. However, this prosperity also attracted the attention of dreaded corsairs and pirates, making the Canary Islands a site of numerous historical confrontations.

 

 

The Strategic Importance of Canary Ports

Since the 16th century, the ports of the Canary Islands have been notably popular. What is now a haven for recreational boats and transatlantic sailboats was once a bustling hub for majestic ships embarking on lengthy voyages to the newly discovered Americas. These journeys, lasting up to eight months, required stops at the Canary Islands for essential supplies and trade, making these ports indispensable for many fleets. This era brought not only the first exotic crops and Flemish art but also the terrifying shadow of pirate fleets.

The Sugarcane Boom: A Catalyst for Economic Prosperity

The history of the Canary Islands is deeply rooted in agriculture. The indigenous barley still grown in Gran Canaria and the orchilla lichen, gathered by the earliest explorers, symbolise the islands' long-standing agricultural heritage. However, it was sugarcane that truly revolutionised the economy. Brought by the conquerors, sugarcane plantations spanned vast areas across La Palma, La Gomera, Gran Canaria, and Tenerife due to their capacity to meet the high water demands and provide ample wood for the sugar mills. These plantations flourished in large part because of the European elites' high demand for sugar, transforming the Canary Islands into a significant exporter.

The large-scale cultivation of sugarcane, however, came with a cost. Extensive deforestation and land clearances, especially in Gran Canaria, led to the near-eradication of the once-expansive Doramas Jungle. Today, only about 1% of this lush forest remains. Nevertheless, sugarcane cultivation persists, particularly in La Palma and Gran Canaria, thanks to the dedication of local farmers.

The Botanical Garden of La Orotava: Europe's First Home for Many Exotic Plants

The busy traffic of ships from the Americas allowed the Spanish Crown to amass a significant collection of exotic seeds and plants from the New World and Asia. Realising the limitations imposed by the cold European winters on these plants, King Charles III issued a Royal Decree to create the Botanical Garden of La Orotava in Tenerife in the late 18th century. Known today as the Botanical Garden of Puerto de la Cruz, this establishment is Spain's second-oldest botanical garden.

In 1788, the first coffee plants were introduced to this garden. After successfully acclimating, many were replanted in the Agaete Valley in Gran Canaria, which remains the only place in Spain still cultivating coffee. This transition further highlights the significant role of the Canary Islands in agricultural experimentation. Besides coffee, other staples like maize and potatoes found their European home in the Canary Islands, becoming essential ingredients in local cuisine. One signature dish, "papa arrugada" (wrinkled potatoes), is made from an ancient variety of potatoes that enjoys protected designation of origin status.

Pirates and Corsairs: The Dark Side of Prosperity

While trade and agriculture brought wealth to the Canary Islands, they also attracted significant threats. Pirate fleets soon set their sights on the archipelago, seeking valuable plunder. Among the infamous attackers was the Dutch corsair Pieter Van der Does, who in 1599 led a formidable fleet of 76 ships and 12,000 men that culminated in the sacking and burning of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, then home to a mere 5,000 residents.

The archipelago also faced assaults from Berber pirates like Xabán Arrez, French pirates such as Jean Fleury and François Le Clerc (known as Peg Leg), and numerous British corsairs. To combat this menace, the Spanish Crown hired local pirates like Amaro Pargo and commissioned engineers to fortify the islands. King Philip II enlisted the Italian engineer Leonardo Torriani to assess and enhance the archipelago's defences, resulting in the construction of numerous towers and castles.

Notable fortifications include:

  • Castillo de San Miguel and Torre de San Andrés in Tenerife

  • Torre del Águila in Lanzarote

  • Castillo de Santa Catalina in La Palma

  • Torreón de San Pedro Mártir in Gran Canaria

  • Castillos de El Cotillo and Caleta de Fuste in Fuerteventura

These robust structures, many of which have survived to the present day, form a poignant testament to the islands' turbulent past during the age of piracy.

The Flemish Influence and the Dawn of Canarian Migrations

The allure of the Canary Islands reached wealthy Flemish traders, who saw tremendous opportunity in the burgeoning agricultural sector. Their influence was particularly evident in La Palma, where the arrival of Flemish settlers led to unparalleled cultural growth. Santa Cruz de La Palma, with its direct connection to Flanders, saw its churches adorned with exquisite Flemish art, some of which survives to this day.

While new settlers flowed in, many Canarians left in pursuit of opportunities in the newly discovered Americas. Pioneers from the Canary Islands helped establish cities such as Montevideo and San Antonio, Texas, contributing to the rich historical tapestry of the New World.

 

 

Beyond Trade Routes and Piracy: A Treasure Trove of History

Beyond trade and piracy, the Canary Islands offer a fascinating array of historical narratives. From the lifestyles of indigenous islanders to the centuries-long influence of the British, the archipelago is a treasure trove of captivating stories. Wander through the charming historic quarters, explore ancient fortresses, and savour the unique flavours of Canarian cuisine to truly appreciate the islands' diverse cultural heritage.

Whether you are drawn to the stunning beaches, the lush natural landscapes, or the intriguing historical sites, the Canary Islands promise an enriching travel experience steeped in history and tradition. So take a step back in time, and embark on a journey through the vibrant and storied past of this unique archipelago.



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Urbasa-Andia Natural Park
Friday, January 10, 2025

Millions of years ago, the relief of a great plateau known as Zunbeltz or Lizarraga changed for ever. A gigantic tectonic slip occurred that led to the opening of a wide passage between the mountain ranges of Urbasa and Andía. On the crest between Atlantic Navarre and the Mediterranean watershed, both make up an extensive Natural Park in the west of the region. 

 

 

Meadows and leady beech woods alternate in this protected space with an idyllic landscape. Its southern edge falls brusquely onto the Valley of the Améscoas, forming an impressive natural viewpoint over the cirque around the source of the river Urederra. 

The Information Centres contain information on this Natural Park, its leisure areas, information points, flora and fauna and signposted paths, which will take you through the beauty of woods and rock outcrops. The landscape is dotted with memories of the lifestyles over the centuries of hunters, shepherds, woodcutters and charcoal burners. The megalithic station of the Urbasa range is not signposted, so access to it is difficult.

 

The Urbasa-Andía Natural Park in western Navarre is made up of the Urbasa and Andía mountain ranges. The NA-120 road links Etxarri-Aranatz with Estella-Lizarra and runs along the Andía range. At kilometre 20, just a few metres from the road, you will find a Roman road, a thousand-year-old witness of an era in which it connected Valdega with the Arakil valley. This range contains one of the most spectacular places in the park: the Monastery of Iranzu.

 

 

 

The NA-718 road from Olazti/Olazagutía to Estella-Lizarra crosses the mountain range and you can park your car at several points. It is advisable to visit the Information Centre at the north entrance, where you can find details of the landscape, environment and culture of the Natural Park. In the south, the 'Borda de Severino' - the word 'borda' is used to describe all the huts used by shepherds and livestock -, now converted into a Nature Interpretation Centre, recalls the pastoral way of life. In it a charcoal pile has been reproduced, recalling the traditional customs of the Urbasa mountain range. Several dolmens, menhirs and cromlechs are a testimony to human presence here 100,000 years ago.

The Natural Park has several viewpoints offering a full panorama of its size and resources: el Balcón de Pilatos (Pilate's Balcony - shown above), located above the cirque at the source of the river Urederra (access from the NA-718 road), the viewpoint at Lizarraga (access from the N-120) and the panoramic table next to the Palace of Urbasa (access from the NA-718).

 

 

Impressive beech woods cover 70% of the territory, together with other species such as yew, juniper and pine trees. On the rasos, flat land located at around 1.000 metres above sea level, the woods give way to pastures dotted with heather and hawthorns where it is quite common to see mares and sheep grazing; the latter's milk is used to make the delicious Idiazábal cheese. 

Another characteristic of this Natural Park is the absence of rivers. The limestone soil allows water to filter through and run underground in numerous chasms and crevasses, so the area is ideal for caving enthusiasts. Sometimes these underground currents emerge in the form of waterfalls. The river sources are spectacular: that of the Urederra in the Urbasa range (access from Baquedano) and of the Ubagua in the Andia range (access from Riezu). Both sites can be reached along easy paths. 

 

 

Throughout the Natural Park there are other signposted paths with different levels of difficulty that will guide you along their peculiarities. The best known are:

- The 'route of the fountains', a circular path that starts at the Borda de Severino and runs gently for 4.5 kilometres past sources/fountains and beautiful sites.

- The 'route of the shepherds', 7.6 kilometres long, is an easy path that crosses woods and rasos to give you an insight into the livestock rearing activity of Urbasa. It starts at the Information Centre and ends at the Borda de Severino.

- The 3.8-kilometre-long 'mountaineers' route', which provides access to the highest cliff in the north of the range (1,113 m.). The route is of medium difficulty, starting at the Information Centre and crossing the old Camino de la sal (salt route), which was used to transport salt from the nearby village of Salinas de Oro.

- Dulanztz and the Canyon of the Iranzu (Andía), a racket-shaped 18-kilometre-long path long that starts near the monastery of Iranzu and follows the course of the river, initially ascending through leafy woods to the summit of Dulantz.

 



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Celebrating Tamborrada: San Sebastián’s Rhythmic Extravaganza
Thursday, January 2, 2025

Nestled in the Basque Country in northern Spain, the coastal city of San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) is renowned for its stunning beaches, world-class gastronomy, and vibrant culture. Among its rich array of traditions, few are as resonant and captivating as the Tamborrada. Every January 20th, San Sebastián resounds with the thunderous beats of drums, marking a festival that combines historical significance, community spirit, and unabated joy. Here’s a deep dive into the Tamborrada, a celebration like no other.

 

 

Historical Roots

The origins of the Tamborrada are a blend of legend and reality, with tales tracing back to the early 19th century during the Napoleonic wars. According to one popular story, the festival commemorates the resilience of the city’s bakers, who used drums to alert citizens when the city’s water supply was compromised by French soldiers. Another version ties the festivities to the city’s patron saint, Saint Sebastian, with marchers originally emulating the French troops who once occupied the city.

Despite its diverse narratives, the Tamborrada as it is celebrated today began to take its contemporary form in the late 19th century. The festival grew in scope and popularity over the decades, establishing itself as San Sebastián’s most vibrant and unifying event.

 

The Festivities

The Tamborrada kicks off precisely at midnight on January 20th in the city's Plaza de la Constitución. The event starts with the hoisting of the flag of San Sebastián, accompanied by the first drum rolls. The tradition is led by members of the Gaztelubide society, dressed in 19th-century military costumes and chef’s garb, symbolizing the baker-garnered theme of the festival.

Throughout the night and into the day, various adult and children’s drumming groups (tamborradas) parade through the streets. Participants, vibrant in historical-inspired costumes of soldiers and cooks, beat their drums and barrels with fervour, filling the air with the rhythmic pulse synonymous with the spirit of the festival.

 

  • Adult Tamborradas: Nearly 150 adult tamborradas take over the city, each with its own distinct uniform and rhythms yet unified in their spirited drumming. Bars, societies, and local organizations form these troupes, ensuring the percussion is felt in every corner of the city.

  • Children's Tamborradas: An equally cherished part of the celebration, the children's parade boasts over 7,000 youngsters from various schools in San Sebastián. These children, dressed in bright and earnest costumes, echo the heritage of the festival with their youthful energy and coordinated drumming.

 

 

Aside from the drumming, the city is alive with music played by brass bands and local choirs delivering traditional songs. The hauntingly beautiful "March of San Sebastián" and the lively "Iriyarena" are integral melodies that contribute to the festival's distinct atmosphere.

No festival in the Basque Country is complete without a feast, and the Tamborrada is no exception. Friends and families gather in gastronomic societies and homes, where they indulge in sumptuous meals featuring local specialties like bacalao a la vizcaína (cod a la Vizcayan) and merluza koskera (hake with spring vegetables). The communal meals reinforce the sense of camaraderie and shared heritage.

At its heart, the Tamborrada is a celebration of community and identity. It embodies San Sebastián’s resilience and rich cultural tapestry. The festival is not just a tradition but a living, breathing part of the city’s annual cycle, drawing together young and old, local and visitor, in a shared rhythm that resonates far beyond the one-day event.

For visitors, the Tamborrada offers a unique way to experience the vibrancy and warmth of San Sebastián. The festive atmosphere, combined with the city’s picturesque setting along the Bay of Biscay, creates an unforgettable backdrop for the celebrations. Wandering through the old town streets, savouring Basque cuisine in local taverns, and moving to the beats of countless drums forge memories that last a lifetime.

The Tamborrada of San Sebastián is more than a festival; it’s a testament to the city’s resilient spirit, cultural richness, and communal warmth. It’s a day where the past harmonizes with the present, where every beat of the drum echoes centuries of tradition and collective pride. Whether you’re a local proudly marching with your tamborrada or a visitor captivated by the spectacle, the Tamborrada leaves an indelible mark on anyone lucky enough to experience its rhythmic magic.

So, mark your calendars, pack your warmest attire, and prepare to be swept up in the heady, vibrant celebration that is the Tamborrada.



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Celebrating the Day of the Kings in Spain
Friday, December 27, 2024

The "Día de los Reyes" or the Day of the Kings, also known as the Epiphany, is one of the most cherished and widely celebrated holidays in Spain. Held on January 6th, this day commemorates the visit of the Three Wise Men, also known as the Three Kings, to the baby Jesus in Bethlehem. The celebration is rich in traditions that reflect the cultural and religious heritage of Spain. Here, we delve into the diverse customs that make this day special.

 

The Parade of the Three Kings

One of the most awaited events associated with the Day of the Kings is the "Cabalgata de Reyes," or the Parade of the Three Kings. On the evening of January 5th, towns and cities across Spain come alive with vibrant parades reenacting the journey of the Wise Men—Melchior, Gaspar, and Balthazar—towards Bethlehem. The streets are filled with elaborate floats, music, dancers, and costumed participants.

The Three Kings, portrayed by locals, ride majestically atop their floats or on horses and camels, tossing candies and small gifts to the eager children lining the streets. Each King is typically dressed in ornate robes and crowned, embodying the luxurious and exotic aura of the biblical Magi. The parades vary in grandeur, with some cities like Madrid and Barcelona hosting particularly elaborate and theatrical displays.

 

 

The Tradition of Gifts

In Spain, the custom of gift-giving is closely tied to the Day of the Kings rather than Christmas. Spanish children write letters to the Three Kings, much like other children might write to Santa Claus, detailing their wished-for gifts. On the eve of January 6th, children leave their shoes out, sometimes filled with straw or hay for the Kings’ camels. That night, the Wise Men are believed to visit homes to leave gifts and sweets for the well-behaved children while delivering coal, often in the form of a sugar confection called "carbón dulce," to those who have misbehaved.

The King's Cake – Roscón de Reyes

An integral part of the Day of the Kings is the "Roscón de Reyes," a ring-shaped sweet bread adorned with candied fruits and sometimes filled with whipped cream or custard. The Roscón often hides a small figurine of a King and a dried bean. Tradition holds that whoever finds the figurine in their slice is crowned 'King' or 'Queen' for the day, sometimes with a paper crown that accompanies the cake. On the other hand, the person unlucky enough to find the bean is tasked with buying the next year's Roscón or an invitation to host the next gathering.

 

 

Family Gatherings and Festive Meals

Like most Spanish festivities, the Day of the Kings is marked by a joyous gathering of family and friends. After the excitement of the morning gifts, families come together for a lavish meal. Dishes vary by region but commonly include rich stews, roasts, seafood, and a variety of traditional sweets. The Roscón de Reyes is often the centrepiece of the dessert spread, enjoyed with hot chocolate or coffee.

The Day of the Kings stands as a testament to Spain's deep-rooted traditions and cultural vibrancy. From the magic of the parades to the joyful gift-giving and communal feasts, each aspect of the celebration encapsulates a blend of religious significance and festive cheer. Though the customs may vary slightly from one region to another, the enduring spirit of the Epiphany unites Spaniards in a shared experience of joy, generosity, and family togetherness, ensuring that the Day of the Kings remains a beloved fixture in the Spanish holiday calendar.



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Wishing you a Sweet Christmas!
Thursday, December 19, 2024

Perhaps the most traditional Christmas sweet in Spain is marzipan, a paste of almonds and sugar. There are various theories about its beginnings, although it is certain to have originated in the Mediterranean area, where almonds come from. The stories of the Thousand and one nights mention it as an aphrodisiac, and as a restorative during Ramadan. Others say it first came from convents, many of which still make it. When there was a wheat shortage after the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa (1212), the nuns began making these sweets with what they had in the larder: almonds and sugar. In Toledo, famous for its marzipan, they used to stamp an image of the King on his throne on the marzipan cakes, copying the city's crest. Curiously, "the King seated", in Arabic, sounds like mauthaban, very similar to the Spanish mazapán. So the debate continues.

 

 

What we can be sure of is that to eat the finest marzipan, you should go to this city in La Mancha, where you can also find traditional variations: anguilas or "eels" with an angel-hair squash filling, thought to have been first made for King Philip III as a gift for the King of Portugal; delicias in the form of a crescent moon, filled with egg paste; castañas, in the form of chestnuts, dipped in chocolate; and empiñonadas, covered in pine nuts.
 
Turrón also seems to have a Muslim origin. A mixture of almonds and honey, called turun, appears for the first time in the book De medicinis et cibis semplicibus, written by an 11th-century Arab doctor. In the 16th century, Philip II's royal cook, Don Francisco Martínez Montiño, comments in his book Conduchos de Navidad that Jijona smells of honey everywhere, because turrón is made in every household. In 1991 the Regulatory Council of the Designation of Jijona was formed, and although traditional turrón is made with almonds and honey, both abundant around Valencia, modern variations can include egg yolk, candied fruit or nuts.

 

As with most culinary inventions, mantecados or lard cakes also arose to meet a need. In the 16th century there was a surplus of pork lard and of cereals, particularly around Seville. In Estepa they decided to mix the lard and flour, adding olive oil, sugar and egg-white, to make mantecados.

Here there is no possibility of an Arab origin. According to their Protected Geographical Indication, mantecados originated in the Convent of Santa Clara in Estepa, where they were first made as flat cakes, and later as the little cakes we see today. Today they can include coconut, cinnamon, sesame seeds and even chocolate. The polvorón is a very similar sweet which was first made around the same time, but includes almonds.

 

 

Christmas meals with children, especially in Catalonia and Aragon, often finish with a type of chocolate-covered Swiss roll. At first sight it looks like a log, but it’s actually a cake filled with cream, the Tronco de Navidad. No-one is sure why these two regions in north-eastern Spain borrowed the Buche de Noel from their French neighbours, who in turn took the idea from the Nordic tradition of the Yule log, where in the northern hemisphere a tree-trunk was burned at the winter solstice between 20 and 23 December as a symbol of prosperity. Like the cake, the log was decorated with flowers, pieces of orange and nuts. In Great Britain, Belgium, and then France, many people took up the tradition of the Yule log, but it fell from favour when enclosed stoves began to be used for heating. A French cake-maker found a solution with this dessert, which quickly became popular in the late 19th century.

 

 

And finally we come to the cake that ends the Christmas season in Spain on 5 or 6 January, depending on the customs of each household: roscón de Reyes. The first people to eat a ring-shaped cake were the Romans, during Saturnalia, also known as the slaves' holiday, because they didn’t have to work. A broad bean would be hidden inside the cake, a symbol of the prosperity that would come in Spring, and of Saturn, the god of agriculture. They spread the tradition all over Europe, but after the arrival of Christianity it endured only in France, where the royal household made the cake with a coin hidden inside. These days it remains a firm tradition in much of Spain, especially in Madrid, accompanied by hot chocolate, and in Latin American countries such as Mexico. 



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Fusion Cuisine in Cartagena
Friday, December 13, 2024

 

In Cartagena fusion cuisine is age-old: Romans, Phoenicians and Arabs have left their mark on family recipes, based on a variety of ingredients that few regions can boast of having as it is considered to be one of the best vegetable gardens, bursting with an array of autochthonous varieties. This, together with a rich cuisine and culture, makes the gastronomy of Cartagena one of the most surprising. The best way to conquer the cuisine of Cartagena is, like in battles of old, through the port. Its fish market is supplied by two seas: the Mediterranean and the Mar Menor: grouper, gilthead bream, dentex, mullet, anchovies, crayfish, clams, prawns, whitebait..., the hard thing is choosing.

The oldest recipes in the area, Salazones (salted fish), also come from the sea. Fish was preserved this way back in the Bronze Age. Phoenicians and Romans extended this use to several types of fish: tuna, mullet, skipjack tuna, sardines, anchovies, ling or meagre, which come with fresh peas or tomatoes in the bars of Cartagena. The sea and the vegetable garden, the hallmarks of Cartagena.

To make the most of the flavours of the Mediterranean and the Mar Menor, a 'Caldero' is the best option. This is the name of the traditional rice dish that fishermen prepared over a fire on the beach. Rockfish or whitebait for flavour, with gilthead bream or mullet and, as they say, love and affection to prepare the broth by frying the ingredients in parts and stirring the rice until it's cooked to perfection. The fish is served in one dish and the rice in another, both accompanied by alioli. Purists require the dish to be presented on the table in a zinc or clay pot and served in a clay cup or bowl.

Another classic is MichironesWhite beans eaten with cocktail sticks as a tapa or on the table during household celebrations. Michirones are another hallmark of gastronomy in Cartagena. They are stewed with chorizo, ham, pork fat, potatoes and chilli peppers. It's a good idea to have a chilled bottle of local wine nearby: the people here like their Michirones spicy. You can also find the cultural influence of the port in this typical dish. The food had to be able to withstand long journeys, hence the habit of cooking dry beans instead of fresh like in other areas of Murcia.

Los Exploradores are another characteristic food from Cartagena. The name of this dish indicates that its recipe was a result of an experiment, with a successful contrast between sweet and savoury, making it an exquisite dish that is hard to forget. Los Exploradores (the explorers), as they call it, are a kind of pasty filled with morcón sausage and egg or mince and coated in icing sugar.

 

 

Needless to say, you can't get up from the table without ordering un asiático (an Asian), a coffee made with condensed milk, brandy and Licor 43 (fruit and spice liqueur). It was first served in the early 20th century at the request of sailors from - you guessed it- Asia. There is even a competition for this Asian concoction: 'La ruta del asiático' (The asiático route). For two weeks all the bars in the city strive to make the best combination of the three liqueurs.

 

 

Cartagena is the perfect place to eat its traditional dishes 'a tajo parejo', as the locals say to describe eating heartily and in an orderly fashion...

 

 

All eyes are on two dishes: Cartagena-style octopus and San Antón rolls. The first is a dish of small rock octopus that are cooked on the large grills the bars bring out onto the street. The second is a dessert that requires you to stay on your toes: according to tradition "quien roba un rollo a san Antón, novios tendrá un montón" (she/he who steals a roll from San Antón will have boy/girlfriends a plenty). The rolls are offerings to the saint. At the San Antón festival, the saint kindly looks the other way.

 Anything for love.

 



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Discover Alquézar: A Hidden Gem in Northern Spain
Friday, November 29, 2024

Nestled in the northeastern region of Aragon, Spain, the medieval village of Alquézar captivates with its rich history, breathtaking natural landscapes, and old-world charm. Whether you are an adventurer, a history enthusiast, or someone simply looking to soak in the picturesque surroundings, Alquézar offers an authentic experience far removed from the bustling tourist trails.

 

 

Alquézar is located in the heart of the Huesca province, perched gracefully at the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees. This village, which offers a stunning vista over the Vero River Gorge, has been meticulously preserved and boasts a sense of timelessness. The narrow winding streets, cobblestone paths, and stone houses transport visitors back to a bygone era, offering a glimpse into Spain's rich medieval history.

As you meander through the village, you cannot help but be enchanted by the rustic charm and architectural beauty that characterise Alquézar. Its medieval layout has remained largely unchanged over the centuries, making it an inviting place to wander leisurely and discover hidden corners, quaint squares, and historical sites.

Alquézar is not just a feast for the eyes; it is also a treasure trove for archaeology enthusiasts. The village is located in the Vero River region, part of a UNESCO Global Geopark known for its significant archaeological sites. Visitors can explore ancient cave paintings and unique geological formations that date back thousands of years through guided tours. These fascinating rock art sites offer an extraordinary insight into human history and prehistoric life in the region.

For those with a penchant for culinary delights, Alquézar is a part of the renowned Somontano wine region. This area is celebrated for producing exceptional wines, with a particular emphasis on robust reds and delicate rosés. Visitors have the opportunity to savour these local wines in charming restaurants and tapas bars scattered throughout the village, where the traditional Aragonese cuisine is served with hearty hospitality.

Indulge in regional specialities such as migas, a comforting dish of fried breadcrumbs with chorizo, and enjoy the exquisite flavours of ternasco, a succulent roast lamb. To complete your culinary journey, do not miss the chance to taste the delectable fresh river trout, sourced directly from the nearby Vero River.

 

Alquézar is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts and adventure seekers. The village serves as a gateway to the Sierra de Guara Natural Park, a renowned location for canyoning, a thrilling sport that combines hiking, climbing, and swimming through rivers and canyons. Companies in the area offer guided tours for those eager to explore the Vero River Gorge, ensuring a safe and exhilarating adventure amid the stunning natural landscape.

One of the most popular excursions in the area is the Pasarelas del Vero, an unforgettable river walkway. This scenic route takes you along a series of suspended walkways and bridges that provide incredible views of the gorge and village from below. The hike is relatively easy and is dotted with natural pools, perfect for a refreshing dip during warmer days.

 

 

Those fortunate enough to have discovered Alquézar often recount their experiences with fondness and admiration. Many travellers have shared their thoughts on platforms like TripAdvisor, highlighting the village’s unique charm and the delight they found in exploring its hidden corners.

A visitor recounted: "We were passing close to Alquézar on a road trip and decided to drop by. We’d read about the Pasarelas del Vero, so we thought we'd give it a go. It was really cool, with amazing views and an incredible feat to build the walkways. Visiting when it wasn't too busy made it even more enjoyable. You can grab some great food in Alquézar afterwards while watching the Griffin vultures soaring overhead."

Another traveller shared their experience, describing the quaint Plaza Rafael Ayerbe, a small square in the old town: "Plaza Rafael Ayerbe is one of some little squares located in the old town of Alquézar, a tiny and Middle-Ages town in the Huesca Region, in the North of Spain. If you walk around the old town, I am sure you will see it — a very tiny square where you can see very beautiful buildings. In fact, it is a porticoed square where you can feel the presence of the past."

Alquézar isn’t just a village; it’s an experience—a magical place where history, nature, and culture intertwine seamlessly. Away from the crowds that flock to more prominent destinations, this hidden gem allows visitors to connect with authentic Spanish heritage and the serene beauty of its natural surroundings. Whether indulging in local delicacies, exploring ancient sites, or embarking on thrilling outdoor adventures, Alquézar promises an unforgettable journey that captivates the heart and soul. For travellers seeking a unique adventure in Spain, Alquézar is truly a destination worth discovering.



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One of the Most Beautiful Towns in Spain and the World
Saturday, November 23, 2024

 

I am sure that very few had heard of Riglos until the French newspaper Le Monde placed this small town of about 250 inhabitants in the pre-Pyrenean region of La Hoya de Huesca in seventh position in its special ranking of the 20 most beautiful towns in the world (and only Spanish one) that it recommends visiting.

The reason is not lacking for the publication, because the picturesque municipality of sloping white houses, on the banks of the Gállego River, is located in a spectacular natural setting, unique in Aragón, declared a Natural Monument for its scenic value and headed by impressive geological formations reddish in colour with vertical walls up to 300 m high, called Mallos.

 

 

This location is a great attraction for climbers, hikers and fans of birds of prey, the town is located at the foot of those imposing walls, formed over millions of years, which makes it inevitable to raise the view (and the camera lenses) towards its peaks while strolling through its streets. The charm of the town centre is in the tranquillity of the surroundings and in the simplicity of its stone constructions. At the entrance to the town, the small Romanesque hermitage of San Martín (12th century) stands out, with a single nave, while, in the upper part, almost at the base of the Mallos, the imposing church of Nuestra Señora del Mallo (s XVII), with three naves and a square-shaped tower with a bell tower, is the most emblematic construction in the town, whose setting, with the rock formations in the background, is one of the most beautiful in the area.

 

 

In recent years, the Mallos de Riglos has become a mecca for climbers from all over the world, thanks to the more than 200 existing climbing routes, most of them of high difficulty. Ornithology lovers also have an interesting place here due to the enormous presence of rock-dwelling birds, which have their habitat in the multiple hollows of the Mallos. These birds, mostly protected raptors, such as vultures, bearded vultures and Egyptian vultures, can be seen flying over the rounded tops. Specifically, in the Wall of the Vultures, there is one of the largest colonies of this species in Europe.

 

 

To get a better view of the Mallos, there are several signposted hiking trails that run through these impressive formations. One of the most popular is the so-called Vuelta a Los Mallos de Riglos, a circular route of about 5.5 km (about two and a half hours) that allows you to contemplate the grandeur of the enormous vertical stone walls from all sides. The path begins in the same town, ascends between the easternmost Mallos and passes through several viewpoints, the Vultures, the Espinalba or the Mallos de Riglos, with the river Gállego in the foreground.

 

 

Just 20 km from Riglos is one of the most incredible buildings in Spain, a must-see if you are in the area. It is the Loarre Castle, one of the most beautiful and best-preserved fortresses in our country. Considered one of the most important Romanesque ensembles in Europe and declared a Site of Cultural Interest and a National Monument, the medieval castle, built in the 11th century by Sancho III, stands on a promontory of limestone rock in the Sierra de Loarre, Huesca.

The complex is surrounded by a great wall built-in 1287 that covers some 10,000 square meters and has a perimeter of 172 meters. Inside the fortress, the small chapel, the crypt of Santa Quiteria and the church of San Pedro stand out. Despite being almost 10 centuries old, its state of preservation is excellent. In addition to hosting events, the castle has been the setting for several films, such as Ridley Scott's Kingdom of Heaven (2005). It is open for visits on weekends and holidays.

 



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A Pharmacy established in the 15th Century
Friday, November 15, 2024

The pharmacy of today is sterile, white and efficient. Each medicine bottle or box is the same, and patients make their way in and out without lingering. However, 500 years ago, the local pharmacy was less science and more art, and the Esteve Pharmacy Museum in Llívia, Spain captures this ideal in the vibrant colours and luxury of a medieval European apothecary.

Established in the 15th century, the Esteve Pharmacy is one of the oldest in Europe. Since 1965 it has only housed the museum, but in its heyday, it attracted patients from across the region for medical treatment and drugs. Before the days of the child-locked pill container, remedies were kept in albarellos, a type of painted pottery that was sealed with parchment or leather.


Today, the museum has a large collection of the albarellos, including 87 rare blue albarellos that were modernized and include painted labels of the drugs they contained. Along with the beautiful storage jars, the museum also features a gaudy baroque cupboard that looks more fitting for a king’s kitchen than a medieval clinic. The contrasts between the museum and modern pharmacies are striking, and the Esteve Pharmacy is a fascinating look into the artful world of medieval medicine.



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Unassuming from the outside, Spectacular on the inside...
Friday, November 8, 2024

 

Unassuming from the outside, this small building goes practically unnoticed to most people who walk down Gran Via in Madrid. Yet right behind this important artery, there is a church whose austere façade reveals no clue as to the spectacularly breathtaking interior.

Inside the church, the domed ceiling and the walls are richly decorated with frescoes, which have led it to be referred to as “the Sistine Chapel of Madrid.” The elaborate frescoes depict the life and miracles of St. Anthony of Padua.

 

 

Built-in the 17th century, this church initially served as a hospital for Portuguese citizens who came to Madrid while Portugal was under Spanish rule. After Portuguese independence, it was dedicated to German pilgrims and its name was changed to the current name, Iglesia de San Antonio de los Alemanes (Church of Saint Anthony of the Germans).

Around 1660, the church’s dome began to be painted according to sketches by the Italian artists Coloma and Mitelli. The frescoes were started two years later, painted by Carreño de Miranda and Francisco de Rizzi, commissioned by King Philip IV of Spain.

A fresco of St. Anthony of Padua, a Franciscan born in Lisbon in 1195, occupies the most important place in the dome. He is depicted kneeling on a cloud receiving the Child Jesus and Virgin Mary with open arms. The different miracles of the saint are represented along the entire upper level of the church, while several sainted kings from history are represented below them.

 

 

Under the church, there is a curious crypt with several niches that house corpses of the Spanish royal family, some dating back to the Middle Ages. Nearby there are more niches, where children and some unknown bodies were laid to rest.

The opening hours to visit the church are from Monday to Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Evenings and Sundays are dedicated to worship. Exceptionally, it may remain closed on certain dates.

A donation of €2 per person is requested to attend to the social purposes of the Brotherhood.

 

 



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