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Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

Quite simply writing about the best things Spain has to offer and anything that might crop up along the way. Spain is a lot more than just sun, sand and sea...

Uncorking the Differences: Cava vs. Champagne vs. Prosecco
Saturday, February 15, 2025

With its captivating effervescence, sparkling wine is a beloved beverage enjoyed worldwide, often gracing celebrations and special occasions. While the terms "Champagne," "Cava," and "Prosecco" are sometimes used interchangeably, these sparkling wines possess distinct characteristics that set them apart. This article delves into the nuances of each, exploring their unique production methods, grape varieties, regions of origin, taste profiles, and price points, ultimately guiding you through the delightful world of bubbly.

 

 

Interestingly, the Cava industry traces its roots back to the 1870s when Josep Raventós, inspired by his travels through Europe, introduced Champagne-style winemaking to Spain. Initially, these Spanish sparkling wines were stored and aged in caves, giving rise to the name "Cava," which translates to "cave" or "cellar" in Spanish.

Production Methods: A Tale of Two Fermentations

The defining characteristic of sparkling wine lies in its effervescence, a magical dance of bubbles achieved through a secondary fermentation process that traps carbon dioxide within the wine. However, the methods employed for this secondary fermentation vary among Cava, Champagne, and Prosecco.

Traditional Method: The Art of Bottle Fermentation

Both Cava and Champagne are crafted using the traditional method, also known as the méthode champenoise. This meticulous process involves a secondary fermentation occurring within the bottle itself. After the initial fermentation, a blend of still wine, sugar, and yeast (liqueur de tirage) is added to each bottle, which is then sealed. The yeast diligently feasts on the sugar, transforming it into alcohol and carbon dioxide. This carbon dioxide, unable to escape, dissolves into the wine, creating the captivating bubbles that dance in the glass.

Following this secondary fermentation, the bottles are aged on their lees (spent yeast cells) for a period that varies depending on the type of sparkling wine. Cava requires a minimum ageing of nine months, while Champagne mandates at least 15 months. This ageing process is crucial as it imparts complex aromas and flavours to the wine, often described as yeasty, toasty, or biscuity.

Cava, in particular, has specific ageing requirements for different categories:

Cava Reserva: Aged for a minimum of 15 months.

Cava Gran Reserva: Aged for a minimum of 30 months.

Cava de Guarda Superior: This category represents the highest level of quality for Cava. These wines are produced in very specific vineyards in Spain, with vines at least 10 years old. The grapes must be harvested by hand, with a maximum yield per hectare. Each bottle must be aged for at least 36 months.

It's worth noting that Catalan Cava producers pioneered a significant technological development in sparkling wine production with the invention of the gyropalette. This large mechanized device revolutionized the riddling process, which involves gradually moving the lees to the neck of the bottle before disgorgement. Previously a time-consuming manual task, the gyropalette significantly streamlined the process.

 

 

Tank Method: Efficiency and Freshness

In contrast to the traditional method, Prosecco typically utilizes the Charmat or tank method. In this method, the secondary fermentation takes place in large stainless steel tanks rather than individual bottles. This process is faster and less expensive, making Prosecco a more affordable option. While the tank method produces sparkling wine with fresh and fruity flavours, it generally lacks the complexity and depth achieved through bottle fermentation8.

Col Fondo: A Unique Expression of Prosecco

While most Prosecco is produced using the tank method, there's a unique style called "Col Fondo" that follows the traditional method of bottle fermentation. This ancient technique results in a Prosecco with more complex flavours and a cloudy appearance due to the presence of sediment.

Grape Varieties: A Symphony of Flavours

Each sparkling wine derives its unique character from the grape varieties used in its production.

Cava: Embracing Spanish Heritage

The traditional grapes of Cava are Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel·lo, all white grape varieties native to Spain. Macabeo contributes body and a subtle floral aroma, Parellada adds freshness and acidity, while Xarel·lo provides structure and complexity. This reliance on indigenous Spanish grapes distinguishes Cava from Champagne and Prosecco, giving it a unique identity rooted in its terroir.

While these three grapes form the foundation of Cava, other varieties are also permitted:

Chardonnay: This international variety adds elegance and finesse to the blend.

Pinot Noir: This red grape, more commonly associated with Champagne, can be used to add complexity and structure to Cava.

Subirat Parent (Malvasia): This grape adds a touch of sweetness and is often used in Dulce and Semi Dulce Cavas.

Champagne: The Classic Trio

The classic Champagne blend consists of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Chardonnay brings elegance, finesse, and citrusy notes, while Pinot Noir adds body, structure, and red fruit aromas. Pinot Meunier contributes fruitiness and roundness to the blend.

While these three grapes dominate Champagne production, four other lesser-known varieties—Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris—are also permitted, adding further complexity to the Champagne landscape.

Prosecco: The Reign of Glera

Prosecco is primarily made from the Glera grape, formerly known as Prosecco. This aromatic variety imparts fruity and floral notes to the wine, with hints of green apple, pear, and citrus. While Glera must constitute at least 85% of the blend, other authorized varieties, including Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Noir, can make up the remaining 15%.

Regions of Origin: Terroir and Tradition

 

The geographic origin of each sparkling wine plays a crucial role in shaping its identity.

Cava

While Cava is primarily associated with the Penedès region in Catalonia, Spain, it can be produced in various other designated regions across the country, including Rioja, Valencia, and Extremadura. The diverse microclimates and soil types within these regions contribute to the variety of Cava styles available.

Champagne

True Champagne can only come from the Champagne region of France, a delimited area with chalky soils and a cool climate that contribute to the wine's unique character. The region is divided into five distinct subregions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Aube, each with its own viticultural characteristics.

Historically, the Champagne region has played a significant role in French history. The city of Reims, located in the heart of the region, was the traditional site for the coronation of French kings, further elevating the status of Champagne.

Prosecco

Prosecco hails from the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions in northeastern Italy. The heart of Prosecco production lies in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene hills, known for its steep slopes and unique terroir. Within this region lies the "Superiore di Cartizze" subzone, a small, prestigious area renowned for producing high-quality Prosecco with intense aromas and flavours.

Taste Profiles: From Crisp and Fruity to Rich and Complex

The taste profiles of Cava, Champagne, and Prosecco vary significantly, reflecting their production methods, grape varieties, and regions of origin.

Cava: A Refreshing Spanish Sparkle

Cava generally exhibits a dry, crisp character with refreshing acidity. It often displays citrus fruit flavours, along with notes of apple, pear, and almond. Some Cavas, particularly those aged for extended periods, may develop toasty or yeasty notes reminiscent of Champagne.

Champagne: Complexity and Depth

Champagne is renowned for its complexity and depth of flavour. It typically offers a broad spectrum of aromas and flavours, ranging from citrus and apple to brioche, toast, and nuts. The extended ageing on lees contributes to its characteristic yeasty or biscuity notes.

Prosecco: A Fruity and Floral Delight

Prosecco is known for its fresh, fruity, and floral character. It often displays aromas of green apple, pear, citrus, and white flowers. Prosecco tends to be lighter-bodied and less complex than Cava or Champagne, with a slightly sweeter profile.

Prosecco comes in three main styles based on its level of effervescence:

Spumante: Fully sparkling with persistent bubbles.

Frizzante: Semi-sparkling with gentler bubbles.

Tranquillo: Still wine with no bubbles.

Price Points: From Everyday Enjoyment to Special Occasions

The price of sparkling wine can vary significantly depending on factors such as production method, ageing, and brand prestige.

Cava: Affordable Quality

Cava generally offers excellent value for money, with many high-quality bottles available at affordable prices. This makes it an accessible option for everyday enjoyment or casual gatherings.

Champagne: Luxury and Prestige

With its meticulous production process and prestigious reputation, Champagne tends to command higher prices. While entry-level Champagnes can be found, premium and vintage bottles can be quite expensive, making them more suitable for special occasions or celebrations.

Prosecco: Everyday Celebration

Prosecco typically falls on the lower end of the price spectrum, making it a popular choice for those seeking an affordable and enjoyable sparkling wine. Its lighter style and fresh fruit flavours make it versatile for various occasions.

Cava, Champagne, and Prosecco each offer a unique sparkling wine experience. With its traditional method and Spanish heritage, Cava provides a balance of quality and affordability, making it a perfect choice for everyday celebrations or casual gatherings with friends. Champagne, the epitome of luxury and complexity, stands as a celebration in itself, ideal for marking special milestones or indulging in a moment of pure indulgence. With its fresh fruitiness and approachable price, Prosecco offers a delightful and versatile option for everyday enjoyment, from brunch with loved ones to a relaxing evening aperitivo.

Ultimately, the choice depends on personal preference, occasion, and budget. The world of sparkling wine is vast and diverse, and exploring these different styles is an adventure in itself. So, raise a glass, uncork your favourite bubbly, and let the celebration begin!

 



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Exploring the Wonders of the Global Geoparks in Spain
Thursday, February 6, 2025

Did you know that Spain is the world’s second-ranking country when it comes to UNESCO Biosphere Reserves? This distinction speaks volumes about the natural beauty and geological significance of its landscapes. Among these natural treasures are the UNESCO Global Geoparks, a relatively recent designation that was introduced in 2015. These Geoparks represent not just areas of stunning landscapes, but also sites of profound geological importance, revealing the history of humanity and our planet through their unique formations.

Spain is home to 17 UNESCO Global Geoparks, each offering a unique combination of natural beauty, historical significance, and opportunities for geotourism. Here, we delve into the remarkable stories and features of these Geoparks, inviting you to explore their wonders.

Cabo de Gata-Níjar Geopark, Almería (Andalusia)

Cabo de Gata-Níjar is a coastal paradise where winter never comes. Its rugged cliffs and hidden coves reflect the dramatic impact of the tectonic plates of Africa and Europe colliding. This volcanic landscape, dotted with quaint fishing villages of whitewashed houses, can be explored by various means including all-terrain vehicles, horseback riding, and hiking.

 

The clear coastal waters reveal a seabed teeming with wildlife and volcanic formations, perfect for snorkelling and scuba diving. For a truly memorable experience, consider a boat tour along the coast to uncover secret coves etched into your memory forever.

Subbéticas Geopark, Córdoba (Andalusia)

In Córdoba’s Subbéticas Geopark, water is the quintessential element, sculpting eccentric shapes in the limestone. This region, characterised by its olive trees and whitewashed villages like Zuheros, Cabra, Luque, and Doña Mencía, is an ideal destination for cyclists, offering specialised routes including the Olive Oil Train Greenway.

Hiking enthusiasts will enjoy the trails of La Nava and Cañón del Río Bailón. Notable geological features in this park include caves such as Los Murciélagos, available for guided tours. For breathtaking views, visit the Balcón de Andalucía at the chapel of Nuestra Señora de la Sierra in the Cabra mountains.

 

 

 

Sobrarbe Geopark – Pyrenees, Huesca (Aragón)

The Pyrenees Geopark in Huesca offers a fascinating journey through time, illustrating the origin of mountains, glaciers, and ancient caves. It even includes the former dwelling of the cave bear in the Oso de Tella cave. This Geopark features numerous hiking and mountain bike routes showcasing some of Spain’s most breathtaking scenery.

Adventurous visitors can enjoy the via ferrata near the Sorrosal waterfall and participate in a geo-mining tour of the region’s historical mines. Highlights also include landscapes around Eripol and the glacier of Monte Perdido in Bielsa, with the visitor centre located in Aínsa.

Basque Coast Geopark, Gipuzkoa (Basque Country)

The Flysch route in the Basque Coast Geopark is a living display of 60 million years of history, covering the municipalities of Zumaia, Deba, and Mutriku. These 13 kilometres of cliffs and sedimentary rock formations are a treasure trove for geologists, providing insights into prehistoric periods, including the extinction of the dinosaurs.

Among the best places to view Flysch is Itzurun Beach in Zumaia, which also hosts the visitors’ centre. Boat tours from here offer a stunning perspective of the cliffs from the sea, with the sunsets being particularly unforgettable. Further inland, the Geopark includes valleys and mountains with caves featuring World Heritage rock art, such as Ekain.

Sierra Norte de Sevilla Geopark, Andalusia

Shaped over 700 million years, the landscape of Sierra Norte de Sevilla Geopark is a geological marvel. Highlights include one of the world’s largest collections of jellyfish fossils and traces of tectonic plates meeting in Beja-Acebuches. The Sierra Norte de Sevilla Greenway offers a scenic walk or cycle route from Cerro del Hierro, a former iron mine revealing striking rock formations, to the picturesque Huesna falls.

Bird watchers can spot the cinereous vulture and the Spanish imperial eagle soaring overhead, adding to the region’s charm.

Villuercas-Ibores-Jara Geopark, Cáceres (Extremadura)

This Geopark offers a mesmerising landscape formed during the Pangaea era, approximately 300 million years ago. From the highest point, the ridge of La Villuerca, visitors can enjoy expansive views of mountain ranges, valleys, and hills. This area also boasts dense oak and chestnut woodlands, home to a variety of fauna, including golden eagles and peregrine falcons.

Key geological sites include the Estrecho de la Peña Amarilla ravine, Marmitas de Gigante del Río Ibor gorge where visitors can swim, and the blockfields of Peraleda de San Román with its distinctive rock formations. The nearby Jerte Valley is renowned for its cherry blossoms in spring, and the Guadalupe monastery is a must-visit World Heritage site.

Central Catalunya Geopark

Once a vast saltwater basin, the Central Catalunya Geopark’s landscape formed as the Pyrenees arose about 36 million years ago. The region’s most iconic landmark is the mountain of Montserrat, known for its unusual rounded rock formations. A visit to the Monastery of Santa María de Montserrat and the surrounding caves is highly recommended.

In Moyá (Barcelona), the Toll Caves, notable for their significant prehistoric and palaeontological finds, are worth exploring. For a unique experience, follow the "Wines of the Geopark" route to sample the local vintages from the Pla de Bages designation of origin.

El Hierro Geopark, Canary Islands

El Hierro is an island of geological wonders, featuring landscapes formed by volcanic activity. The island’s volcanic origins are evident in its lava flows and rock formations. The Geopark visitors’ centre in El Pinar offers a deeper understanding of the island’s volcanic history.

 

Take in the stunning views from the island’s many viewpoints, such as Jinama, La Peña, Bascos, and La Llanía. Whether driving or cycling, the route from Valverde to San Andrés reveals diverse landscapes, from agricultural areas to dramatic sea views and steep cliffs. San Andrés also tells the legend of the Garoé tree and the phenomenon of horizontal rain. In La Dehesa, witness the trade winds’ effect on the twisted trees of El Sabinar.

Molina-Alto Tajo Geopark, Guadalajara

Ancient rivers and warm seas shaped the terrain of Molina-Alto Tajo, creating deep ravines and unique geological formations. Notable sites include 430-million-year-old fossil deposits near Checa and the fossil forest of Sierra de Arangocillo. This expansive Geopark features 11 signed georoutes and several visitors’ centres, each offering spectacular views.

Among the popular viewing points are Barranco de la Hoz and autumn's Mirador del Tajo, providing stunning perspectives on the changing foliage. In winter, the Mirador del Pellejero shows off snow-covered peaks, while spring’s Mirador del Machorrillo overlooks Taravilla lake.

Lanzarote and Chinijo Islands Geopark, Canary Islands

Lanzarote's volcanic origins are strikingly visible in the Timanfaya National Park, where visitors can explore striking volcanic landscapes and even dine on food cooked using geothermal heat. Highlights include the Timanfaya volcano tour and thermal anomalies where surface temperatures can reach up to 250 ºC, producing spectacular geysers.

In Tinajo, El Cuervo volcano, Montaña Colorada, and Caldera Blanca all offer pleasant hiking routes. La Geria showcases unique farming methods adapted to the volcanic soil. Along the coast, beaches like Papagayo and the green lake of Charco de los Clicos are must-see spots. The Art, Culture, and Tourism Centres blend the island’s volcanic nature with the artwork of César Manrique.

Las Loras Geopark, Burgos and Palencia (Castilla y León)

Las Loras Geopark showcases a rugged terrain with spectacular ravines, outcrops, and a concentration of Romanesque architecture. Some must-visit sites include the gorges of the Ebro and Rudrón rivers, Las Tuerces, and the Cave of Los Franceses.

Easy-to-access waterfalls such as those in Orbaneja del Castillo and Covalagua add to the charm. Throughout the park, visitors will find pre-Roman castros, Neolithic dolmens, and Iron Age sites, offering a rich historical context to the breathtaking natural scenery.

Spain’s UNESCO Global Geoparks beckon to those with a love for natural beauty, adventure, and a curiosity for geological history. Each Geopark provides a unique experience, promising unforgettable memories and a deeper appreciation of our planet’s geological wonders. Whether you’re hiking, cycling, or simply taking in the views, these Geoparks offer a journey through time and nature that is not to be missed.



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El Bierzo - The Spanish Switzerland
Saturday, February 1, 2025

 

El Bierzo, located in the North-West of Spain, is a mountainous region crossed by the Road to Santiago (Way of Saint James) which the pilgrims used to call the “Spanish Switzerland”. This extreme mountain feature is what makes it, together with its climate and soil, one of the ideal regions worldwide to grow vineyards.

The Mencía grape is the main variety of El Bierzo. This variety, scorned until very recently, has managed in the last few years to seduce the best enologists and wine producers in Spain, who have slowly gone looking for it in their territory, even highlighting it as one of the Spanish varietal jewels. They have understood it contains enormous potential and the challenge of bringing out all the possibilities it conceals to make great wines with character. Wines full of subtleties, with a good aging capability, and deep expressiveness of the history-laden terroir they grow in.

The origin of Mencía is lost in time, but there are many signs indicating it could be one of the first grape stocks introduced in the Iberian Peninsula. Already in ancient times, the areas where Mencía now rules were famous for the coming and going of Roman legions which planted the first vines and built presses, and since then these areas have had a deep wine-producing tradition. Supposedly through the Roman Road, the wine produced in these lands was transported to Imperial Rome, to be enjoyed by the emperors. References to the vines of the region of El Bierzo and Valdeorras already appeared two thousand years ago cited by the Roman Pliny. With the fall of the Empire, the vines also declined.

Their rebirth and greater expansion came with the growth of medieval monasteries, for which wine was not only an element of worship, but also an essential food product. Monks introduced new growing and production techniques. In addition to the splendour of the monasteries was the brilliance of the Road to Santiago, which encouraged the spread of vines, bestowing wine with a special significance. The first pilgrims to Santiago already spoke of the excellence of the wines produced along the way. On the road, wine became a precious asset, an element of barter, to pay taxes and also to pay the saints of the area for their miracles.
At the end of the 19th century, however, the phylloxera changed the picture, destroying many of the vines and leading to a major economic crisis that forced many to emigrate. Aside from people, it meant also the loss of many native Spanish varieties, which were not recovered until very recently. 

Vine growing was re-established in the first half of the 20th century, but the consequences of the Spanish Civil War between 1936 -1939 plunged many wine producers into absolute poverty, which forced them to emigrate, leading once again to the neglect of many vineyards.

Mencía generates wines of a deep raspberry colour, intense fruit aromas, but also delicate flower ones, good alcohol doses, proper acidity and aging possibility. Until recently, reds made of Mencía were rather light wines, ready to drink, with low alcohol content. Gradually they have changed, especially in El Bierzo, into wines that seek to bring out their full potential, the expressiveness of their soil, and the good aging capacity Mencía is showing, adding ever-longer aging periods in wood. This has resulted in the rebirth of this stock, which recent studies liken greatly to Cabernet Franc, which is why some link its origin to Bordeaux and the pilgrims coming from France for centuries following the Road to Santiago. 

A very sensitive grape, the Mencía crop stands out predominantly in mountain regions, which is why its ripening has much to do with the sun orientation and altitude of the vineyards. El Bierzo is the Spanish designation with the most French characteristics. Its geography features major geographical contrasts, deep river basins, mountainous ranges and marked differences between its high and low lands, all of which is reflected in its wines. Mineral slate soils, but also clay-muddy ones, stand out in the territory of Mencía. The substratum marks the wine’s minerality, and also underscores the various fruit expressions and concentrations.

 



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Visit Spain's Costa Tropical
Saturday, January 25, 2025

All along its 100 kilometres of coast, Granada has plenty to be proud of. In this strip of welcoming beaches and pristine coves, a warm and bountiful climate reigns, one of long, sunny days, long evenings and starlit nights. Christened the Tropical Coast, exotic fruits grow here such as the chirimoya, or custard-apple, which can only flourish at southerly latitudes. Boxed in between the provinces of Málaga and Almería, Granada's coast is scattered with towers and ancient fortresses that in another age acted as sentinels in a hostile and turbulent Mediterranean, a haunt of pirates and knaves. The villages appear as tiny white specks among the high hills and rugged valleys.

 

 

La Herradura was once a humble fishing village. Now it is a tourist centre between Cerro Gordo and Punta de la Mona. Its bay is host to naturist beaches such as Cantarriján and leisure ports such as Marina del Este, which in recent years has become a popular haven for scuba-diving enthusiasts.

The N-340 road acts as an umbilical cord between the coastal villages. From the La Herradura exit it passes curves, gradients, viewpoints and sheer ravines before arriving at Almuñécar. The oldest of the region's villages has its most identifiable postcard image in the form of the beach of San Cristóbal. 

The maritime drive continues between tall, leafy palm trees. On the way lies the bronze statue of Abderramán I, the Umayyad prince who disembarked one morning in the year 755 ready to make Cordoba the capital of Muslim Andalusia. He arrived in  Almuñecar, which in previous centuries had welcomed the Phoenicians, attracted by the fishing and fruit of the fertile coast. Almuñécar was crowned by an Arab castle. 

The Archaeological Museum is in Cueva de los Siete Palacios. There is a bird park and footpaths leading inland towards the valley of the Río Verde, where the chirimoya plantations extend. The uphill route to the villages of Jete, Otívar and Lentegí is marked by farming cooperatives. 

 

 

Though once woodland in which nothing grew except broom and holm oak, since the middle of the past century these valleys have been filled with medium-sized trees brought from different parts of the Americas. The three villages found in the valley of the Río Grande are small and have Morisco churches. 

 

Salobreña is the most beautiful village on the Tropical Coast. Its houses are white, a dazzling white. It is crowned by an Arab fortress and surrounded by a tortuous, narrow network of streets. Its neighbourhoods carry the names of Albayzín, El Brocal and La Fuente. Among these towers the campanile of the Mudejar church of the Virgen del Rosario. 

Further along you come across Motril. Granada's second most populous city lies inland, in the heart of a fertile plain surrounded by impregnable mountains. The fields of crops that reach towards the sandy line of the sea are sowed with mango, banana, avocado, chirimoya, papaya and guava. 

The tree-lined avenues lead to the hill where the shrine of Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza is sited. Centuries ago, this place was the palace of retreat for the sultana Aixa, mother of Boabdil, the last Arab king of Granada. At the foot of the shrine is spread the park of the Pueblos de America. The Church of the Incarnation is Mudejar and the Casa de la Palma, an old sugar refinery of Arabic origin, is today a cultural centre.

Here ends this route, which brings together the fertility and the grandeur of the mountains, which are constantly leaning towards the sea. 

 

Granada's Tropical Coast lies trapped between the foothills of the southern Sierra Nevada and the Mediterranean. It therefore produces a unique climate, hence the name of the coast in this area.

The star of its subtropical crops is the chirimoya or custard-apple, a green, heart-shaped fruit with ivory-white flesh, which leaves a soft, somewhat sweet taste on the palate. 

The fruit is native to southern Ecuador and northern Peru; the first Spanish explorers to reach these lands were those who brought it to Europe. 

 

 

The indigenous varieties of Fino de Jete and Campas are those that benefit from the status of Protected Designation of Origin.

It provides an average of 103 kcal per fruit. 
20% of its weight is made up of carbohydrates in the form of sugars. Rich in calcium, vitamin C and fibre, it helps intestinal movement.

The cuisine of Granada's Tropical Coast is mostly determined by its fruit. The chirimoya, the avocado, the mango and the guava are exotic fruits that have been used to make delicious salads for some decades now. They are usually accompanied by other fruits such as kiwis, heart of palm, strawberries, pears and apples. The Tropical Coast is a pleasure to all the senses but especially sight and taste.



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Trade Routes and Piracy in the Canary Islands
Saturday, January 18, 2025

Nestled in the Atlantic Ocean, the Canary Islands have always held a special place in maritime history. Following their conquest, these islands played a pivotal role in the advent of new trade routes and significant historical events. The strategically located archipelago became a crucial link between the Old World and the New World, facilitating commerce and cultural exchange. Additionally, the islands' temperate climate provided an ideal environment for acclimating exotic plants, which boosted local agriculture and economy. However, this prosperity also attracted the attention of dreaded corsairs and pirates, making the Canary Islands a site of numerous historical confrontations.

 

 

The Strategic Importance of Canary Ports

Since the 16th century, the ports of the Canary Islands have been notably popular. What is now a haven for recreational boats and transatlantic sailboats was once a bustling hub for majestic ships embarking on lengthy voyages to the newly discovered Americas. These journeys, lasting up to eight months, required stops at the Canary Islands for essential supplies and trade, making these ports indispensable for many fleets. This era brought not only the first exotic crops and Flemish art but also the terrifying shadow of pirate fleets.

The Sugarcane Boom: A Catalyst for Economic Prosperity

The history of the Canary Islands is deeply rooted in agriculture. The indigenous barley still grown in Gran Canaria and the orchilla lichen, gathered by the earliest explorers, symbolise the islands' long-standing agricultural heritage. However, it was sugarcane that truly revolutionised the economy. Brought by the conquerors, sugarcane plantations spanned vast areas across La Palma, La Gomera, Gran Canaria, and Tenerife due to their capacity to meet the high water demands and provide ample wood for the sugar mills. These plantations flourished in large part because of the European elites' high demand for sugar, transforming the Canary Islands into a significant exporter.

The large-scale cultivation of sugarcane, however, came with a cost. Extensive deforestation and land clearances, especially in Gran Canaria, led to the near-eradication of the once-expansive Doramas Jungle. Today, only about 1% of this lush forest remains. Nevertheless, sugarcane cultivation persists, particularly in La Palma and Gran Canaria, thanks to the dedication of local farmers.

The Botanical Garden of La Orotava: Europe's First Home for Many Exotic Plants

The busy traffic of ships from the Americas allowed the Spanish Crown to amass a significant collection of exotic seeds and plants from the New World and Asia. Realising the limitations imposed by the cold European winters on these plants, King Charles III issued a Royal Decree to create the Botanical Garden of La Orotava in Tenerife in the late 18th century. Known today as the Botanical Garden of Puerto de la Cruz, this establishment is Spain's second-oldest botanical garden.

In 1788, the first coffee plants were introduced to this garden. After successfully acclimating, many were replanted in the Agaete Valley in Gran Canaria, which remains the only place in Spain still cultivating coffee. This transition further highlights the significant role of the Canary Islands in agricultural experimentation. Besides coffee, other staples like maize and potatoes found their European home in the Canary Islands, becoming essential ingredients in local cuisine. One signature dish, "papa arrugada" (wrinkled potatoes), is made from an ancient variety of potatoes that enjoys protected designation of origin status.

Pirates and Corsairs: The Dark Side of Prosperity

While trade and agriculture brought wealth to the Canary Islands, they also attracted significant threats. Pirate fleets soon set their sights on the archipelago, seeking valuable plunder. Among the infamous attackers was the Dutch corsair Pieter Van der Does, who in 1599 led a formidable fleet of 76 ships and 12,000 men that culminated in the sacking and burning of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, then home to a mere 5,000 residents.

The archipelago also faced assaults from Berber pirates like Xabán Arrez, French pirates such as Jean Fleury and François Le Clerc (known as Peg Leg), and numerous British corsairs. To combat this menace, the Spanish Crown hired local pirates like Amaro Pargo and commissioned engineers to fortify the islands. King Philip II enlisted the Italian engineer Leonardo Torriani to assess and enhance the archipelago's defences, resulting in the construction of numerous towers and castles.

Notable fortifications include:

  • Castillo de San Miguel and Torre de San Andrés in Tenerife

  • Torre del Águila in Lanzarote

  • Castillo de Santa Catalina in La Palma

  • Torreón de San Pedro Mártir in Gran Canaria

  • Castillos de El Cotillo and Caleta de Fuste in Fuerteventura

These robust structures, many of which have survived to the present day, form a poignant testament to the islands' turbulent past during the age of piracy.

The Flemish Influence and the Dawn of Canarian Migrations

The allure of the Canary Islands reached wealthy Flemish traders, who saw tremendous opportunity in the burgeoning agricultural sector. Their influence was particularly evident in La Palma, where the arrival of Flemish settlers led to unparalleled cultural growth. Santa Cruz de La Palma, with its direct connection to Flanders, saw its churches adorned with exquisite Flemish art, some of which survives to this day.

While new settlers flowed in, many Canarians left in pursuit of opportunities in the newly discovered Americas. Pioneers from the Canary Islands helped establish cities such as Montevideo and San Antonio, Texas, contributing to the rich historical tapestry of the New World.

 

 

Beyond Trade Routes and Piracy: A Treasure Trove of History

Beyond trade and piracy, the Canary Islands offer a fascinating array of historical narratives. From the lifestyles of indigenous islanders to the centuries-long influence of the British, the archipelago is a treasure trove of captivating stories. Wander through the charming historic quarters, explore ancient fortresses, and savour the unique flavours of Canarian cuisine to truly appreciate the islands' diverse cultural heritage.

Whether you are drawn to the stunning beaches, the lush natural landscapes, or the intriguing historical sites, the Canary Islands promise an enriching travel experience steeped in history and tradition. So take a step back in time, and embark on a journey through the vibrant and storied past of this unique archipelago.



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Urbasa-Andia Natural Park
Friday, January 10, 2025

Millions of years ago, the relief of a great plateau known as Zunbeltz or Lizarraga changed for ever. A gigantic tectonic slip occurred that led to the opening of a wide passage between the mountain ranges of Urbasa and Andía. On the crest between Atlantic Navarre and the Mediterranean watershed, both make up an extensive Natural Park in the west of the region. 

 

 

Meadows and leady beech woods alternate in this protected space with an idyllic landscape. Its southern edge falls brusquely onto the Valley of the Améscoas, forming an impressive natural viewpoint over the cirque around the source of the river Urederra. 

The Information Centres contain information on this Natural Park, its leisure areas, information points, flora and fauna and signposted paths, which will take you through the beauty of woods and rock outcrops. The landscape is dotted with memories of the lifestyles over the centuries of hunters, shepherds, woodcutters and charcoal burners. The megalithic station of the Urbasa range is not signposted, so access to it is difficult.

 

The Urbasa-Andía Natural Park in western Navarre is made up of the Urbasa and Andía mountain ranges. The NA-120 road links Etxarri-Aranatz with Estella-Lizarra and runs along the Andía range. At kilometre 20, just a few metres from the road, you will find a Roman road, a thousand-year-old witness of an era in which it connected Valdega with the Arakil valley. This range contains one of the most spectacular places in the park: the Monastery of Iranzu.

 

 

 

The NA-718 road from Olazti/Olazagutía to Estella-Lizarra crosses the mountain range and you can park your car at several points. It is advisable to visit the Information Centre at the north entrance, where you can find details of the landscape, environment and culture of the Natural Park. In the south, the 'Borda de Severino' - the word 'borda' is used to describe all the huts used by shepherds and livestock -, now converted into a Nature Interpretation Centre, recalls the pastoral way of life. In it a charcoal pile has been reproduced, recalling the traditional customs of the Urbasa mountain range. Several dolmens, menhirs and cromlechs are a testimony to human presence here 100,000 years ago.

The Natural Park has several viewpoints offering a full panorama of its size and resources: el Balcón de Pilatos (Pilate's Balcony - shown above), located above the cirque at the source of the river Urederra (access from the NA-718 road), the viewpoint at Lizarraga (access from the N-120) and the panoramic table next to the Palace of Urbasa (access from the NA-718).

 

 

Impressive beech woods cover 70% of the territory, together with other species such as yew, juniper and pine trees. On the rasos, flat land located at around 1.000 metres above sea level, the woods give way to pastures dotted with heather and hawthorns where it is quite common to see mares and sheep grazing; the latter's milk is used to make the delicious Idiazábal cheese. 

Another characteristic of this Natural Park is the absence of rivers. The limestone soil allows water to filter through and run underground in numerous chasms and crevasses, so the area is ideal for caving enthusiasts. Sometimes these underground currents emerge in the form of waterfalls. The river sources are spectacular: that of the Urederra in the Urbasa range (access from Baquedano) and of the Ubagua in the Andia range (access from Riezu). Both sites can be reached along easy paths. 

 

 

Throughout the Natural Park there are other signposted paths with different levels of difficulty that will guide you along their peculiarities. The best known are:

- The 'route of the fountains', a circular path that starts at the Borda de Severino and runs gently for 4.5 kilometres past sources/fountains and beautiful sites.

- The 'route of the shepherds', 7.6 kilometres long, is an easy path that crosses woods and rasos to give you an insight into the livestock rearing activity of Urbasa. It starts at the Information Centre and ends at the Borda de Severino.

- The 3.8-kilometre-long 'mountaineers' route', which provides access to the highest cliff in the north of the range (1,113 m.). The route is of medium difficulty, starting at the Information Centre and crossing the old Camino de la sal (salt route), which was used to transport salt from the nearby village of Salinas de Oro.

- Dulanztz and the Canyon of the Iranzu (Andía), a racket-shaped 18-kilometre-long path long that starts near the monastery of Iranzu and follows the course of the river, initially ascending through leafy woods to the summit of Dulantz.

 



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Celebrating Tamborrada: San Sebastián’s Rhythmic Extravaganza
Thursday, January 2, 2025

Nestled in the Basque Country in northern Spain, the coastal city of San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) is renowned for its stunning beaches, world-class gastronomy, and vibrant culture. Among its rich array of traditions, few are as resonant and captivating as the Tamborrada. Every January 20th, San Sebastián resounds with the thunderous beats of drums, marking a festival that combines historical significance, community spirit, and unabated joy. Here’s a deep dive into the Tamborrada, a celebration like no other.

 

 

Historical Roots

The origins of the Tamborrada are a blend of legend and reality, with tales tracing back to the early 19th century during the Napoleonic wars. According to one popular story, the festival commemorates the resilience of the city’s bakers, who used drums to alert citizens when the city’s water supply was compromised by French soldiers. Another version ties the festivities to the city’s patron saint, Saint Sebastian, with marchers originally emulating the French troops who once occupied the city.

Despite its diverse narratives, the Tamborrada as it is celebrated today began to take its contemporary form in the late 19th century. The festival grew in scope and popularity over the decades, establishing itself as San Sebastián’s most vibrant and unifying event.

 

The Festivities

The Tamborrada kicks off precisely at midnight on January 20th in the city's Plaza de la Constitución. The event starts with the hoisting of the flag of San Sebastián, accompanied by the first drum rolls. The tradition is led by members of the Gaztelubide society, dressed in 19th-century military costumes and chef’s garb, symbolizing the baker-garnered theme of the festival.

Throughout the night and into the day, various adult and children’s drumming groups (tamborradas) parade through the streets. Participants, vibrant in historical-inspired costumes of soldiers and cooks, beat their drums and barrels with fervour, filling the air with the rhythmic pulse synonymous with the spirit of the festival.

 

  • Adult Tamborradas: Nearly 150 adult tamborradas take over the city, each with its own distinct uniform and rhythms yet unified in their spirited drumming. Bars, societies, and local organizations form these troupes, ensuring the percussion is felt in every corner of the city.

  • Children's Tamborradas: An equally cherished part of the celebration, the children's parade boasts over 7,000 youngsters from various schools in San Sebastián. These children, dressed in bright and earnest costumes, echo the heritage of the festival with their youthful energy and coordinated drumming.

 

 

Aside from the drumming, the city is alive with music played by brass bands and local choirs delivering traditional songs. The hauntingly beautiful "March of San Sebastián" and the lively "Iriyarena" are integral melodies that contribute to the festival's distinct atmosphere.

No festival in the Basque Country is complete without a feast, and the Tamborrada is no exception. Friends and families gather in gastronomic societies and homes, where they indulge in sumptuous meals featuring local specialties like bacalao a la vizcaína (cod a la Vizcayan) and merluza koskera (hake with spring vegetables). The communal meals reinforce the sense of camaraderie and shared heritage.

At its heart, the Tamborrada is a celebration of community and identity. It embodies San Sebastián’s resilience and rich cultural tapestry. The festival is not just a tradition but a living, breathing part of the city’s annual cycle, drawing together young and old, local and visitor, in a shared rhythm that resonates far beyond the one-day event.

For visitors, the Tamborrada offers a unique way to experience the vibrancy and warmth of San Sebastián. The festive atmosphere, combined with the city’s picturesque setting along the Bay of Biscay, creates an unforgettable backdrop for the celebrations. Wandering through the old town streets, savouring Basque cuisine in local taverns, and moving to the beats of countless drums forge memories that last a lifetime.

The Tamborrada of San Sebastián is more than a festival; it’s a testament to the city’s resilient spirit, cultural richness, and communal warmth. It’s a day where the past harmonizes with the present, where every beat of the drum echoes centuries of tradition and collective pride. Whether you’re a local proudly marching with your tamborrada or a visitor captivated by the spectacle, the Tamborrada leaves an indelible mark on anyone lucky enough to experience its rhythmic magic.

So, mark your calendars, pack your warmest attire, and prepare to be swept up in the heady, vibrant celebration that is the Tamborrada.



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Celebrating the Day of the Kings in Spain
Friday, December 27, 2024

The "Día de los Reyes" or the Day of the Kings, also known as the Epiphany, is one of the most cherished and widely celebrated holidays in Spain. Held on January 6th, this day commemorates the visit of the Three Wise Men, also known as the Three Kings, to the baby Jesus in Bethlehem. The celebration is rich in traditions that reflect the cultural and religious heritage of Spain. Here, we delve into the diverse customs that make this day special.

 

The Parade of the Three Kings

One of the most awaited events associated with the Day of the Kings is the "Cabalgata de Reyes," or the Parade of the Three Kings. On the evening of January 5th, towns and cities across Spain come alive with vibrant parades reenacting the journey of the Wise Men—Melchior, Gaspar, and Balthazar—towards Bethlehem. The streets are filled with elaborate floats, music, dancers, and costumed participants.

The Three Kings, portrayed by locals, ride majestically atop their floats or on horses and camels, tossing candies and small gifts to the eager children lining the streets. Each King is typically dressed in ornate robes and crowned, embodying the luxurious and exotic aura of the biblical Magi. The parades vary in grandeur, with some cities like Madrid and Barcelona hosting particularly elaborate and theatrical displays.

 

 

The Tradition of Gifts

In Spain, the custom of gift-giving is closely tied to the Day of the Kings rather than Christmas. Spanish children write letters to the Three Kings, much like other children might write to Santa Claus, detailing their wished-for gifts. On the eve of January 6th, children leave their shoes out, sometimes filled with straw or hay for the Kings’ camels. That night, the Wise Men are believed to visit homes to leave gifts and sweets for the well-behaved children while delivering coal, often in the form of a sugar confection called "carbón dulce," to those who have misbehaved.

The King's Cake – Roscón de Reyes

An integral part of the Day of the Kings is the "Roscón de Reyes," a ring-shaped sweet bread adorned with candied fruits and sometimes filled with whipped cream or custard. The Roscón often hides a small figurine of a King and a dried bean. Tradition holds that whoever finds the figurine in their slice is crowned 'King' or 'Queen' for the day, sometimes with a paper crown that accompanies the cake. On the other hand, the person unlucky enough to find the bean is tasked with buying the next year's Roscón or an invitation to host the next gathering.

 

 

Family Gatherings and Festive Meals

Like most Spanish festivities, the Day of the Kings is marked by a joyous gathering of family and friends. After the excitement of the morning gifts, families come together for a lavish meal. Dishes vary by region but commonly include rich stews, roasts, seafood, and a variety of traditional sweets. The Roscón de Reyes is often the centrepiece of the dessert spread, enjoyed with hot chocolate or coffee.

The Day of the Kings stands as a testament to Spain's deep-rooted traditions and cultural vibrancy. From the magic of the parades to the joyful gift-giving and communal feasts, each aspect of the celebration encapsulates a blend of religious significance and festive cheer. Though the customs may vary slightly from one region to another, the enduring spirit of the Epiphany unites Spaniards in a shared experience of joy, generosity, and family togetherness, ensuring that the Day of the Kings remains a beloved fixture in the Spanish holiday calendar.



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Wishing you a Sweet Christmas!
Thursday, December 19, 2024

Perhaps the most traditional Christmas sweet in Spain is marzipan, a paste of almonds and sugar. There are various theories about its beginnings, although it is certain to have originated in the Mediterranean area, where almonds come from. The stories of the Thousand and one nights mention it as an aphrodisiac, and as a restorative during Ramadan. Others say it first came from convents, many of which still make it. When there was a wheat shortage after the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa (1212), the nuns began making these sweets with what they had in the larder: almonds and sugar. In Toledo, famous for its marzipan, they used to stamp an image of the King on his throne on the marzipan cakes, copying the city's crest. Curiously, "the King seated", in Arabic, sounds like mauthaban, very similar to the Spanish mazapán. So the debate continues.

 

 

What we can be sure of is that to eat the finest marzipan, you should go to this city in La Mancha, where you can also find traditional variations: anguilas or "eels" with an angel-hair squash filling, thought to have been first made for King Philip III as a gift for the King of Portugal; delicias in the form of a crescent moon, filled with egg paste; castañas, in the form of chestnuts, dipped in chocolate; and empiñonadas, covered in pine nuts.
 
Turrón also seems to have a Muslim origin. A mixture of almonds and honey, called turun, appears for the first time in the book De medicinis et cibis semplicibus, written by an 11th-century Arab doctor. In the 16th century, Philip II's royal cook, Don Francisco Martínez Montiño, comments in his book Conduchos de Navidad that Jijona smells of honey everywhere, because turrón is made in every household. In 1991 the Regulatory Council of the Designation of Jijona was formed, and although traditional turrón is made with almonds and honey, both abundant around Valencia, modern variations can include egg yolk, candied fruit or nuts.

 

As with most culinary inventions, mantecados or lard cakes also arose to meet a need. In the 16th century there was a surplus of pork lard and of cereals, particularly around Seville. In Estepa they decided to mix the lard and flour, adding olive oil, sugar and egg-white, to make mantecados.

Here there is no possibility of an Arab origin. According to their Protected Geographical Indication, mantecados originated in the Convent of Santa Clara in Estepa, where they were first made as flat cakes, and later as the little cakes we see today. Today they can include coconut, cinnamon, sesame seeds and even chocolate. The polvorón is a very similar sweet which was first made around the same time, but includes almonds.

 

 

Christmas meals with children, especially in Catalonia and Aragon, often finish with a type of chocolate-covered Swiss roll. At first sight it looks like a log, but it’s actually a cake filled with cream, the Tronco de Navidad. No-one is sure why these two regions in north-eastern Spain borrowed the Buche de Noel from their French neighbours, who in turn took the idea from the Nordic tradition of the Yule log, where in the northern hemisphere a tree-trunk was burned at the winter solstice between 20 and 23 December as a symbol of prosperity. Like the cake, the log was decorated with flowers, pieces of orange and nuts. In Great Britain, Belgium, and then France, many people took up the tradition of the Yule log, but it fell from favour when enclosed stoves began to be used for heating. A French cake-maker found a solution with this dessert, which quickly became popular in the late 19th century.

 

 

And finally we come to the cake that ends the Christmas season in Spain on 5 or 6 January, depending on the customs of each household: roscón de Reyes. The first people to eat a ring-shaped cake were the Romans, during Saturnalia, also known as the slaves' holiday, because they didn’t have to work. A broad bean would be hidden inside the cake, a symbol of the prosperity that would come in Spring, and of Saturn, the god of agriculture. They spread the tradition all over Europe, but after the arrival of Christianity it endured only in France, where the royal household made the cake with a coin hidden inside. These days it remains a firm tradition in much of Spain, especially in Madrid, accompanied by hot chocolate, and in Latin American countries such as Mexico. 



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Fusion Cuisine in Cartagena
Friday, December 13, 2024

 

In Cartagena fusion cuisine is age-old: Romans, Phoenicians and Arabs have left their mark on family recipes, based on a variety of ingredients that few regions can boast of having as it is considered to be one of the best vegetable gardens, bursting with an array of autochthonous varieties. This, together with a rich cuisine and culture, makes the gastronomy of Cartagena one of the most surprising. The best way to conquer the cuisine of Cartagena is, like in battles of old, through the port. Its fish market is supplied by two seas: the Mediterranean and the Mar Menor: grouper, gilthead bream, dentex, mullet, anchovies, crayfish, clams, prawns, whitebait..., the hard thing is choosing.

The oldest recipes in the area, Salazones (salted fish), also come from the sea. Fish was preserved this way back in the Bronze Age. Phoenicians and Romans extended this use to several types of fish: tuna, mullet, skipjack tuna, sardines, anchovies, ling or meagre, which come with fresh peas or tomatoes in the bars of Cartagena. The sea and the vegetable garden, the hallmarks of Cartagena.

To make the most of the flavours of the Mediterranean and the Mar Menor, a 'Caldero' is the best option. This is the name of the traditional rice dish that fishermen prepared over a fire on the beach. Rockfish or whitebait for flavour, with gilthead bream or mullet and, as they say, love and affection to prepare the broth by frying the ingredients in parts and stirring the rice until it's cooked to perfection. The fish is served in one dish and the rice in another, both accompanied by alioli. Purists require the dish to be presented on the table in a zinc or clay pot and served in a clay cup or bowl.

Another classic is MichironesWhite beans eaten with cocktail sticks as a tapa or on the table during household celebrations. Michirones are another hallmark of gastronomy in Cartagena. They are stewed with chorizo, ham, pork fat, potatoes and chilli peppers. It's a good idea to have a chilled bottle of local wine nearby: the people here like their Michirones spicy. You can also find the cultural influence of the port in this typical dish. The food had to be able to withstand long journeys, hence the habit of cooking dry beans instead of fresh like in other areas of Murcia.

Los Exploradores are another characteristic food from Cartagena. The name of this dish indicates that its recipe was a result of an experiment, with a successful contrast between sweet and savoury, making it an exquisite dish that is hard to forget. Los Exploradores (the explorers), as they call it, are a kind of pasty filled with morcón sausage and egg or mince and coated in icing sugar.

 

 

Needless to say, you can't get up from the table without ordering un asiático (an Asian), a coffee made with condensed milk, brandy and Licor 43 (fruit and spice liqueur). It was first served in the early 20th century at the request of sailors from - you guessed it- Asia. There is even a competition for this Asian concoction: 'La ruta del asiático' (The asiático route). For two weeks all the bars in the city strive to make the best combination of the three liqueurs.

 

 

Cartagena is the perfect place to eat its traditional dishes 'a tajo parejo', as the locals say to describe eating heartily and in an orderly fashion...

 

 

All eyes are on two dishes: Cartagena-style octopus and San Antón rolls. The first is a dish of small rock octopus that are cooked on the large grills the bars bring out onto the street. The second is a dessert that requires you to stay on your toes: according to tradition "quien roba un rollo a san Antón, novios tendrá un montón" (she/he who steals a roll from San Antón will have boy/girlfriends a plenty). The rolls are offerings to the saint. At the San Antón festival, the saint kindly looks the other way.

 Anything for love.

 



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