Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

Millions of years ago, the relief of a great plateau known as Zunbeltz or Lizarraga changed for ever. A gigantic tectonic slip occurred that led to the opening of a wide passage between the mountain ranges of Urbasa and Andía. On the crest between Atlantic Navarre and the Mediterranean watershed, both make up an extensive Natural Park in the west of the region. 

Meadows and leady beech woods alternate in this protected space with an idyllic landscape. Its southern edge falls brusquely onto the Valley of the Améscoas, forming an impressive natural viewpoint over the cirque around the source of the river Urederra. 

The Information Centres contain information on this Natural Park, its leisure areas, information points, flora and fauna and signposted paths, which will take you through the beauty of woods and rock outcrops. The landscape is dotted with memories of the lifestyles over the centuries of hunters, shepherds, woodcutters and charcoal burners. The megalithic station of the Urbasa range is not signposted, so access to it is difficult.

The Urbasa-Andía Natural Park in western Navarre is made up of the Urbasa and Andía mountain ranges. The NA-120 road links Etxarri-Aranatz with Estella-Lizarra and runs along the Andía range. At kilometre 20, just a few metres from the road, you will find a Roman road, a thousand-year-old witness of an era in which it connected Valdega with the Arakil valley. This range contains one of the most spectacular places in the park: the Monastery of Iranzu.

The NA-718 road from Olazti/Olazagutía to Estella-Lizarra crosses the mountain range and you can park your car at several points. It is advisable to visit the Information Centre at the north entrance, where you can find details of the landscape, environment and culture of the Natural Park. In the south, the 'Borda de Severino' - the word 'borda' is used to describe all the huts used by shepherds and livestock -, now converted into a Nature Interpretation Centre, recalls the pastoral way of life. In it a charcoal pile has been reproduced, recalling the traditional customs of the Urbasa mountain range. Several dolmens, menhirs and cromlechs are a testimony to human presence here 100,000 years ago.

The Natural Park has several viewpoints offering a full panorama of its size and resources: el Balcón de Pilatos (Pilate's Balcony - shown above), located above the cirque at the source of the river Urederra (access from the NA-718 road), the viewpoint at Lizarraga (access from the N-120) and the panoramic table next to the Palace of Urbasa (access from the NA-718).

Impressive beech woods cover 70% of the territory, together with other species such as yew, juniper and pine trees. On the rasos, flat land located at around 1.000 metres above sea level, the woods give way to pastures dotted with heather and hawthorns where it is quite common to see mares and sheep grazing; the latter's milk is used to make the delicious Idiazábal cheese. 

Another characteristic of this Natural Park is the absence of rivers. The limestone soil allows water to filter through and run underground in numerous chasms and crevasses, so the area is ideal for caving enthusiasts. Sometimes these underground currents emerge in the form of waterfalls. The river sources are spectacular: that of the Urederra in the Urbasa range (access from Baquedano) and of the Ubagua in the Andia range (access from Riezu). Both sites can be reached along easy paths. 

Throughout the Natural Park there are other signposted paths with different levels of difficulty that will guide you along their peculiarities. The best known are:

- The 'route of the fountains', a circular path that starts at the Borda de Severino and runs gently for 4.5 kilometres past sources/fountains and beautiful sites.

- The 'route of the shepherds', 7.6 kilometres long, is an easy path that crosses woods and rasos to give you an insight into the livestock rearing activity of Urbasa. It starts at the Information Centre and ends at the Borda de Severino.

- The 3.8-kilometre-long 'mountaineers' route', which provides access to the highest cliff in the north of the range (1,113 m.). The route is of medium difficulty, starting at the Information Centre and crossing the old Camino de la sal (salt route), which was used to transport salt from the nearby village of Salinas de Oro.

- Dulanztz and the Canyon of the Iranzu (Andía), a racket-shaped 18-kilometre-long path long that starts near the monastery of Iranzu and follows the course of the river, initially ascending through leafy woods to the summit of Dulantz.

Nestled in the Basque Country in northern Spain, the coastal city of San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) is renowned for its stunning beaches, world-class gastronomy, and vibrant culture. Among its rich array of traditions, few are as resonant and captivating as the Tamborrada. Every January 20th, San Sebastián resounds with the thunderous beats of drums, marking a festival that combines historical significance, community spirit, and unabated joy. Here’s a deep dive into the Tamborrada, a celebration like no other.

Historical Roots

The origins of the Tamborrada are a blend of legend and reality, with tales tracing back to the early 19th century during the Napoleonic wars. According to one popular story, the festival commemorates the resilience of the city’s bakers, who used drums to alert citizens when the city’s water supply was compromised by French soldiers. Another version ties the festivities to the city’s patron saint, Saint Sebastian, with marchers originally emulating the French troops who once occupied the city.

Despite its diverse narratives, the Tamborrada as it is celebrated today began to take its contemporary form in the late 19th century. The festival grew in scope and popularity over the decades, establishing itself as San Sebastián’s most vibrant and unifying event.

The Festivities

The Tamborrada kicks off precisely at midnight on January 20th in the city's Plaza de la Constitución. The event starts with the hoisting of the flag of San Sebastián, accompanied by the first drum rolls. The tradition is led by members of the Gaztelubide society, dressed in 19th-century military costumes and chef’s garb, symbolizing the baker-garnered theme of the festival.

Throughout the night and into the day, various adult and children’s drumming groups (tamborradas) parade through the streets. Participants, vibrant in historical-inspired costumes of soldiers and cooks, beat their drums and barrels with fervour, filling the air with the rhythmic pulse synonymous with the spirit of the festival.

• Adult Tamborradas: Nearly 150 adult tamborradas take over the city, each with its own distinct uniform and rhythms yet unified in their spirited drumming. Bars, societies, and local organizations form these troupes, ensuring the percussion is felt in every corner of the city.

• Children's Tamborradas: An equally cherished part of the celebration, the children's parade boasts over 7,000 youngsters from various schools in San Sebastián. These children, dressed in bright and earnest costumes, echo the heritage of the festival with their youthful energy and coordinated drumming.

Aside from the drumming, the city is alive with music played by brass bands and local choirs delivering traditional songs. The hauntingly beautiful "March of San Sebastián" and the lively "Iriyarena" are integral melodies that contribute to the festival's distinct atmosphere.

No festival in the Basque Country is complete without a feast, and the Tamborrada is no exception. Friends and families gather in gastronomic societies and homes, where they indulge in sumptuous meals featuring local specialties like bacalao a la vizcaína (cod a la Vizcayan) and merluza koskera (hake with spring vegetables). The communal meals reinforce the sense of camaraderie and shared heritage.

At its heart, the Tamborrada is a celebration of community and identity. It embodies San Sebastián’s resilience and rich cultural tapestry. The festival is not just a tradition but a living, breathing part of the city’s annual cycle, drawing together young and old, local and visitor, in a shared rhythm that resonates far beyond the one-day event.

For visitors, the Tamborrada offers a unique way to experience the vibrancy and warmth of San Sebastián. The festive atmosphere, combined with the city’s picturesque setting along the Bay of Biscay, creates an unforgettable backdrop for the celebrations. Wandering through the old town streets, savouring Basque cuisine in local taverns, and moving to the beats of countless drums forge memories that last a lifetime.

The Tamborrada of San Sebastián is more than a festival; it’s a testament to the city’s resilient spirit, cultural richness, and communal warmth. It’s a day where the past harmonizes with the present, where every beat of the drum echoes centuries of tradition and collective pride. Whether you’re a local proudly marching with your tamborrada or a visitor captivated by the spectacle, the Tamborrada leaves an indelible mark on anyone lucky enough to experience its rhythmic magic.

So, mark your calendars, pack your warmest attire, and prepare to be swept up in the heady, vibrant celebration that is the Tamborrada.