Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

The pharmacy of today is sterile, white and efficient. Each medicine bottle or box is the same, and patients make their way in and out without lingering. However, 500 years ago, the local pharmacy was less science and more art, and the Esteve Pharmacy Museum in Llívia, Spain captures this ideal in the vibrant colours and luxury of a medieval European apothecary.

Established in the 15th century, the Esteve Pharmacy is one of the oldest in Europe. Since 1965 it has only housed the museum, but in its heyday, it attracted patients from across the region for medical treatment and drugs. Before the days of the child-locked pill container, remedies were kept in albarellos, a type of painted pottery that was sealed with parchment or leather.

Today, the museum has a large collection of the albarellos, including 87 rare blue albarellos that were modernized and include painted labels of the drugs they contained. Along with the beautiful storage jars, the museum also features a gaudy baroque cupboard that looks more fitting for a king’s kitchen than a medieval clinic. The contrasts between the museum and modern pharmacies are striking, and the Esteve Pharmacy is a fascinating look into the artful world of medieval medicine.

Unassuming from the outside, this small building goes practically unnoticed to most people who walk down Gran Via in Madrid. Yet right behind this important artery, there is a church whose austere façade reveals no clue as to the spectacularly breathtaking interior.

Inside the church, the domed ceiling and the walls are richly decorated with frescoes, which have led it to be referred to as “the Sistine Chapel of Madrid.” The elaborate frescoes depict the life and miracles of St. Anthony of Padua.

Built-in the 17th century, this church initially served as a hospital for Portuguese citizens who came to Madrid while Portugal was under Spanish rule. After Portuguese independence, it was dedicated to German pilgrims and its name was changed to the current name, Iglesia de San Antonio de los Alemanes (Church of Saint Anthony of the Germans).

Around 1660, the church’s dome began to be painted according to sketches by the Italian artists Coloma and Mitelli. The frescoes were started two years later, painted by Carreño de Miranda and Francisco de Rizzi, commissioned by King Philip IV of Spain.

A fresco of St. Anthony of Padua, a Franciscan born in Lisbon in 1195, occupies the most important place in the dome. He is depicted kneeling on a cloud receiving the Child Jesus and Virgin Mary with open arms. The different miracles of the saint are represented along the entire upper level of the church, while several sainted kings from history are represented below them.

Under the church, there is a curious crypt with several niches that house corpses of the Spanish royal family, some dating back to the Middle Ages. Nearby there are more niches, where children and some unknown bodies were laid to rest.

The opening hours to visit the church are from Monday to Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Evenings and Sundays are dedicated to worship. Exceptionally, it may remain closed on certain dates.

A donation of €2 per person is requested to attend to the social purposes of the Brotherhood.

Puentedey is a village in the province of Burgos whose name literally means “God’s bridge”. This town’s singularity resides in its location. As a matter of fact, it is situated on top of a natural rock arch; i.e. on a crag, which forms one of the most curious natural occurring bridges in Spain. Part of the town is built on top of the bridge, including its Romanesque church. This curious bridge is shaped by the river Nela, whose source is in the mountains of Somo and flows on into the river Ebro. 

The arch was formed when the Nela River abandoned a long meander by carving its way through the hill. A fairly wide path runs through the arch alongside the river, letting you enjoy the sheer size of the arch from the directly beneath it. Just inside, you’ll find a sort of small, sandy beach which is an ideal spot for taking refuge from the sun in summer.

Not surprisingly, as it is limestone, it has several openings which discharge water during wet weather, sometimes with quite significant pressure. If you happen to visit be sure look up to admire the scenery, too. The village is nestled within a wonderful Karst landscape with impressive limestone bluffs towering high above it.