Bacalao (cod) al pil-pil is a recipe originally from the Basque country. It may be more myth than history, but there's a story that claims this Spanish dish was created during the 2nd Carlist war when a merchant ordered 20 or 22 specimens of cod before the siege of Bilbao began. Instead of 20 or 22 fish, he was delivered 20,022.
The legend says that the merchant tried to sell most of the excess cod he had received in towns within the Cantabric region but then the second siege of Bilbao began. It was in fact a fortunate mistake, as there was an important shortage of food due to ti the siege, and luckily there was enough olive oil as well. These two key factors helped soften the famine in Bilbao.
The story says that this merchant went on to become a rich man and one of the most important businessmen in the city. This dish was particularly popular during Lent, as fish was the only meat source people were allowed to consume. However, this is one version of history. There are other theories that claim that bacalao al pil-pil was the natural evolution of a dish called Bacalao a la Provenza or similar cod dishes.
Anyhow, despite its dubious origin, what makes bacalao al pil pil such a successful dish? I believe it lies in the simplicity of its ingredients: cod, olive oil and chilli. If you happen to visit Spain, most bars and restaurants in Spain will serve it so make sure you give it a try.
There is however some debate surrounding this seemingly simple cod recipe as there tends to be with most classic Spanish dishes. That debate concerns the way that the cod should be cooked. Some people believe that the cod should first be cooking skin-side up for five minutes, before being flipped over and then performing the pil pil process. Meanwhile, others say that the cod should be cooked skin-side down first, and should be skin-side up during the pil pil process. Both sides claim that theirs is the best way for releasing the gelatine from the fish to make the sauce. Maybe you should try both and decide for yourselves. I personally tend to cook it skin-side up for the first few minutes then skin-side down for the pil-pil process.
Bacalao al pil pil is a little tricky and does require a little technique in order to make the pil pil sauce just right. However don't be put off as even the most novice chef, with a little patience, can produce an excellent example of the dish. To make sure you get it right, here are a few quick tips. Only use olive oil as other oils and fats do not produce the same emulsion effect and make sure the temperature of the oil is quite low. You can use fresh cod or salted cod, traditionally it is made with salted cod which you need to 'desalt' in clean water for about 24-48 hours (depending on the thickness), changing the water every 8 hours. Most claim that this is the best way but both styles of cod work.
The key is to create a good emulsion sauce with the oil and the gelatine that the cod releases. To do it the traditional way by swirling the pan is very difficult and time-consuming but the quickest way to get a good thick emulsion is once the cod is cooked you let the oil and cod gelatine mix in the pan cool down until it is warm, then transfer it to a saucepan. The next step is to get a sieve and a ladle. Ladle a little of the oil and gelatine mix into the frying pan (no heat) and stir backwards and forwards with the sieve, basically whisk it with the bottom of the sieve in the frying pan, this will help to emulsify the oil. Add a little more and repeat. Do this until you have enough sauce. Remember it is impossible to emulsify the oil if it is still very hot.
Ingredients for 4 people:
• 8 pieces of fresh or desalted cod loins
• 300 cc of olive oil
• 5 thickly chopped garlic cloves
• 1 chopped chili (5 pieces more or less)
• Salt to taste
Preparation:
1. Desalt the cod if necessary, remove any fish bones.
2. Add the olive oil to a saucepan at medium heat.
3. Add the garlic and brown them slowly.
4. Remove the garlic and add the chopped chilli to the oil.
5. Place the cod loins skin-side up in the oil (medium heat) for 2 minutes and then turn over for another 2 minutes, this should be enough to cook them through. (Remember you are not deep frying the fish. If it is sizzling a lot then the oil is too hot and won't release its gelatine)
5. Remove the cod loins and place them on a dish, also remove the chillis.
6. Let the oil mixture cool down and then create the emulsion as explained earlier with the sieve.
7. Serve as displayed in the photo.
8. You can accompany this dish with runner beans and boiled new potatoes if you wish.
