Deep in the heart of Barcelona's El Raval district lies a veritable time capsule, a watering hole that has witnessed nearly two centuries of history unfold within its walls. Bar Marsella, founded in 1820, stands proudly as the oldest bar in the Catalan capital, offering patrons a glimpse into a bygone era whilst serving up its infamous house speciality: absinthe.
As you step through the doors of Bar Marsella, you're immediately transported to another age. The décor, virtually untouched since its opening, speaks volumes of the bar's rich history. Chipped paint adorns the ceiling, cloudy mirrors line the walls, and a handful of ceiling fans struggle valiantly against the Mediterranean heat. The overall effect is one of charming dilapidation, a far cry from the polished establishments that populate much of modern Barcelona.
Behind glass shelves, rows of dusty wine bottles stand sentinel, many belonging to regular patrons who purchase their favourite tipple to enjoy on subsequent visits. Black-and-white photographs of the owner's family mingle with other curios, including a statue of Saint Martin, patron saint of drinkers—a fitting guardian for this temple of libations.
In its early days, Bar Marsella was situated in what was then a notorious neighbourhood. El Raval in the 19th century was a hotbed of organised crime, prostitution, and gambling. The bar's survival through these tumultuous times is a testament to its resilience and enduring appeal.
As the years passed, Bar Marsella became a magnet for artists, intellectuals, and bohemians. Its reputation grew, attracting some of the most celebrated figures of the 20th century. While it's unlikely they all visited simultaneously, the bar proudly claims Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, and Salvador Dalí among its illustrious former patrons.
During the oppressive regime of Francisco Franco, Bar Marsella is said to have played host to clandestine meetings of dissidents and free-thinkers. A curious relic from this period remains: a sign prohibiting singing, a reminder of the strict controls once placed on public gatherings and expressions of freedom.
The Green Fairy's Lair
While Bar Marsella offers a variety of libations, it's best known for its absinthe. This potent, anise-flavoured spirit, often referred to as 'The Green Fairy', has long been associated with creativity, hallucinations, and the Parisian bohemian set of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Bar Marsella's homemade absinthe is served in the traditional manner: a sugar cube is placed on a slotted spoon atop a glass of the emerald liquor. Ice-cold water is then slowly dripped over the sugar, dissolving it into the absinthe below. As the water mingles with the spirit, it creates a cloudy, opalescent effect known as the 'louche'.
This ritual, performed countless times over the decades, connects modern-day visitors with the artists, writers, and revolutionaries who once sought inspiration—or perhaps oblivion—in the same drink, in the same location.
In 2013, Bar Marsella faced an existential threat. The building housing this historic establishment was slated for closure, potentially ending nearly two centuries of continuous operation. However, the bar's significance to the local community and its place in Barcelona's cultural landscape sparked a grassroots movement to save it.
Regulars, neighbours, and supporters from across the city rallied to protect what they saw as an irreplaceable piece of Barcelona's heritage. Their efforts paid off when the city council, recognising Bar Marsella's importance, stepped in to purchase the entire building. This intervention ensured that the bar could continue serving patrons for years to come, cementing its status as a local icon.
Today, Bar Marsella stands as a living museum, offering visitors a unique opportunity to step back in time whilst enjoying a drink. Its continued popularity is a testament to the enduring appeal of authenticity in an age of constant renewal and gentrification.
The bar's survival and thriving business model demonstrate that there's still a strong appetite for establishments that wear their history proudly. In a city known for its cutting-edge architecture and forward-thinking design, Bar Marsella provides a necessary counterpoint—a place where the past is not just remembered, but lived.
Visiting Bar Marsella
For those wishing to experience this slice of Barcelona's history firsthand, Bar Marsella is conveniently located between the Rambla del Raval and the famous Las Ramblas. The nearest metro station is Liceu.
The bar's opening hours reflect its nocturnal nature:
Tuesday to Thursday: 5 pm to 12 am
Friday and Saturday: 5 pm to 1:30 am
Sunday: 5 pm to 12 am
Closed on Mondays
Visitors should be prepared for a no-frills experience. The charm of Bar Marsella lies in its authenticity and history, not in modern comforts or elaborate cocktail menus. The absinthe, of course, is a must-try for those who've never sampled the infamous green spirit.
In a world of rapid change and constant modernisation, establishments like Bar Marsella become increasingly precious. It serves not only drinks but also as a portal to the past, allowing each visitor to feel a connection to the generations that came before.
Whether you're a history buff, an absinthe aficionado, or simply someone looking for a unique night out in Barcelona, Bar Marsella offers an experience unlike any other. Its survival against the odds—from neighbourhood transformations to political upheavals and near-closure—makes every visit feel like a small victory for preservation and tradition.
As you sip your drink in Bar Marsella, surrounded by the ghosts of artists, revolutionaries, and countless anonymous revellers, you become part of its ongoing story. In doing so, you help ensure that this remarkable piece of Barcelona's heritage continues to thrive, ready to welcome curious visitors for many years to come.