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Our Andalucian paradise

My husband and I had lived in Mexico City, LA, Paris, Guadalajara, Oslo, Montreal and Vancouver. On a rainy November night we moved to a small town an hour inland from Malaga. 'Our Andalusian paradise' is about the historical town of Ronda, the mountains that surrounds it, the white villages dotted amongst them, of hikes, donkey trails and excursions around Andalucía and journeys further afield.

What NOT to do to survive the Andalucían summer
Thursday, July 7, 2016 @ 4:23 PM

High noon ghost. Photo © snobb.netNo doubt about it, summer is here. The other day Sevilla reached 47 degrees Celsius and this is early July! Here in Ronda we are not far behind, so what does a Viking with low heat tolerance, a virtual heat wimp, do to survive the summers of Southern Spain? As I haven't figured out my DOs yet, let me tell you my DON’Ts:

Chair. Photo © snobb.net
DON'T spend the day scraping paint off a door on the terrace

It seemed like a good idea at the time, working outside in the breeze and the shade, but that was before I almost perished by heat stroke. You see, the Andalucian rays get everywhere. It is like the wind that comes from all directions at the same time. Heat envelops you from above, below and from every possible angle in between. Even if the sun isn’t actually hitting the spot where you are standing, there is no escaping its wrath. Scraping paint was particularly unsuited to this type of weather, as millions of paint-pieces adhered to my damp skin like glue and not even a rough floor brush got them off. The stone flooring amplified the heat factor and the white walls blinded me, while I slowly sizzled alive.

Bounty from our huerto. Photo © snobb.netDON’T start baking
We had an abundance of fresh zucchinis from our community garden and naturally I wanted to make sure they didn't go bad. Zucchini bread for the freezer was my bright Martha Stewart-inspired solution. I had finally accepted that one ought to stay inside in the heat of summer (see above), so I reasoned that baking would be a perfect mid-day summer indoor activity. You can see that I don't do much cooking… As the oven gradually got warmer, I realized that this might have been a bit of a mistake. Taking my ready masterpieces out of the oven made it even worse, with no place for the hot air to escape. Our entire house became an extended oven, making it unliveable not only for the Norwegian in the family, but even for the Mexican.

Artwork Salamanca. Photo © snobb.net
DON’T do yoga in the dark

I usually do yoga in the morning. As daylight emerges, I go down to our office where I can play my Eternal Ohm, spa-like muzak, Bollywood soundtracks or African rap, depending on how rebellious or ‘Zen’ I feel. Summer is my least ‘Zen’ time of the year, by far. As the temperature rises, I start my session earlier, to prevent the outer heat from interfering with my inner one. While there might be rodents and slithering guests coming into my hall of inner peace, I always open the window to the elements, to get my daily dose of fresh air. Fearing that the heat would make me see double before I go into my first shoulder stand, I decided to go down to my yoga session in the pitch black. Considerate as I am (after all, I am a yogi…) I did not want to awake the above-mentioned Mexican, so I left the lights off, risking life and limb as I fumbled my way down two flights of railing-less stairs. After crashing into undefined objects and stubbing my toe in transit, there was of course an ‘early bird’ fly there to greet my pre-sun salutations.

Sunset with haze. Photo © snobb.netDON’T open the windows
Like a true Viking, I believe that there is nothing better for ones health and wellbeing than fresh air. Actually, we Northerners solve almost any problem with AIR. Like the English run for a cup of tea when crisis hits, we get a bit of fresh air. Most of us keep windows open all year around, including the coldest winter nights. I mean, what could be healthier??? If there is a larger problem at hand, one might go for a brisk walk to air out ones head. With this preamble, it was only natural for me to think that the still air in our house in the midst of summer needed airing out, or a change of air, as it were. We had built our house with the traditional thick Andalucian walls, to keep the heat IN in the winter and OUT in the summer, but having a breeze running right through the house, albeit hot, felt like the right thing to do. In retrospect, I see why all our Spanish neighbours keep their windows closed and their blinds down all summer, even if the thermometer go down to a balmy 25 degrees at night. I suppose I just can forget about fresh air until October…

Fly rubbing hands between meals. Photo © snobb.netDON’T go on a fly hunt
I am not sure if the flies around here are native to Andalucía or have travelled from further afield. They certainly are tough enough to survive a jeep-ride across the Sahara and crossing the Gibraltar Straight in a leaky dingy. Wherever they origin, what I can say is that they are a pesky breed, indeed.

Whether you air out the house or not, you will have flies. Whether you have screens on every window and barely open your front door a narrow gap to sneak out, mark my word you will have flies. If you do not have flies coming in, there will be flies that have hibernated since last year. And even if you got rid off every single recruit of last year’s army of flies, there will be thousands of eggs waiting to hatch in places your broom can never reach. Naturally it is tempting for a Scandinavian cleaning freak to try to eradicate these pests. I do not want to use carcinogenic bug sprays and I cannot stand the thought of an electric fly-zapper or a trap full of fly carcasses, so I vacuum them out. Well, I try. And I try. Surely the neighbours are talking about the mad foreigner who runs around with the vacuum, fighting invisible demons and screaming at what looks like an empty room. As the summer temperature rises, the flies get more and more clever and persistent, and I get more and more lethargic and sloth-like. I might have to admit that during the heat of summer the flies are a loosing battle, even for this Viking.

More dangerous than it looks. Photo © snobb.netDON’T get drunk
We all know that one is supposed to drink lots of fluids in the heat. And I do. My drink of choice in plus 30 degrees is usually water by the gallon. However, one night I joined some Spanish friends, most of whom with seemingly unlimited capacity for food and alcohol. I was served a glass of liquor-infused sangria. It was so effortless to drink, just like lemonade with a happy colour. Every time I looked away, like a cup of cornucopia, my glass was filled up to the rim again. As night fell and the heat started lightening its grasp on our throats, we all cheered. And cheer one certainly should, though preferably in water I realized as I was lying in bed, trying not to close my eyes to prevent the room from going around, something I have not done for decades. Blame the heat, blame the ever-filling glass or blame the lack of fresh air.

So, the moral of the story is… DO greet the day, but do it mindfully. DO air out the house, just not at high noon. And DO cheer at sunset, though preferably not in a fountain of sangria.

Dry thistles. Photo © snobb.net



Like 2




5 Comments


eos_ian said:
Thursday, July 7, 2016 @ 7:21 PM

I find the heat unbearable too...there is only one DO and one DON'T...Put the air conditioning on and don't go outside! Which isn't much fun really, so I just put up with it really. Really enjoying your blog! Please keep them coming!


nikkers said:
Saturday, July 9, 2016 @ 6:42 AM

I am crazy (negatively) about flies as I have 3 horses and a manure pile but live in Oregon not Spain (though we do also have a house in Olvera Spain) and now its heating up (we do get to 38-40C in summer) the flies are total pests and I've become neurotic about them! For me there's been a solution but I don't know if you can get fly predators in Spain but they work really well and keep things under control for me. You could try contacting Spalding Labs in CA and see if they know of anyone in Spain.
I really enjoy your blogs thanks!




catalanbrian said:
Saturday, July 9, 2016 @ 7:37 AM

Air conditioning! I can only dream of such a luxury as I live off grid so this is not an option. The golden rule here is to have all windows open at night and to close them as soon as the sun starts heating the outside air.



coolcat1951 said:
Saturday, July 9, 2016 @ 11:40 AM

I did some painting of the outside walls in my hose in Sevilla in late june.....sunburn on my back!
I hang doorcurtains so that I can keep the door open and flies mostly out.
I laugh when I watch " a place in the sun" and people comment: so dark in here.....they have no idea!
My windows are permanently shut, shutters and roll up blind down keeping house dark and cool...
I have used muslin cotton on my kitchen window as a screen so that I can keep it open - still haven't figured a semi permanent way of fixing it tho...any entrepreneurs out there?


AlanR555 said:
Saturday, July 9, 2016 @ 4:44 PM

As hinted in another comment, this piece needs to
be read and appreciated by those contemplating a
move to Spain.

Things to do:

a) Research climate trends for the target area.
This includes humidity as well as temperature
and rainfall. Also one needs to be aware of
local variations. Where I live there is a seven
degree difference in a fifteen-minute drive.
Sadly this is negative in winter and positive
in summer (eg 20-29 range in one place and
13-36 in the other!).

b) Although "prevention is better than cure" is a
good maxim that remedy involves relocation
which is not often a feasible option - but if it
is there will need to be a trade with the other
features. Where I live people have "summer"
and "winter" houses around half an hour apart
(those of a generation when houses on the
island were cheap and plentiful). In the
peninsular Spain this could involve having a
place in Galicia as well as one in Andalucia.

c) If one needs to stay in one place, the key
advice must be "Insulate the roof when the
sun is not shining". Roof insulation makes a
huge difference and allows implementation
of the advice in another post: "Open the
windows at night and close them soon after
dawn when the air starts to get warmer". It
is also good to keep blinds closed during the
day on every window liable to impact by rays
of sunlight - however obliquely.

d) Undertake forays out of the house as early in
the day as possible and use the early afternoon
for its intended purpose - a siesta. Where I
live the sun peaks around 14.15 local time
and so using 13.00-16.00 for a siesta suits well.
I have taken to going to the beach at 06.45
and returning before 10.00 whereas in winter
my daily routine is later - despite the peak sun
being an hour earlier at around 13.15 - and the
siesta time becomes much shorter or omitted.

==
I look forward to reading suggestions from others
- although I will be reading them in UK, where I
spend my summers in a balmy climate before
returning to El Hierro for autumn, winter,spring.

I send good wishes to those bearing the summer
with the advice not to bare the summer!


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