A description of life in the village of Pruna, nestled in the Andalusian mountains of Seville

Semana Santa – Easter Week

Holy Week, Semana Santa, in Pruna is an event that literally transforms the village. Processions of elaborately decorated floats carried through the streets in hours of back breaking glory. The girls and women all dress as widows in black, with the classic Mantilla (black veils), the boys and men dress as executioners, in the the pointy hats (think klu klux klan, who stole the outfit). There are marching bands that accompany the processions, shrilly building up the emotion.

It is an amazing experience, and a great time to come to Pruna if you want to imbibe some deeply-held traditions that seem have less to do with religion than with the death of a son at the hands of authority. You will experience some real emotions.

The first time I attended this event I was at the crossroads were the float carrying Christ to the crucifixion was being carried, it came to the crossroad and at that junction there was a float of Mary, his mother, then, the 36 men who were carrying the figure of Christ knelt in order to give the effect of Christ bowing to his Mother while on the way to his death, the trumpets shrilled, the people sighed en masse, I burst into tears. That is what you experience.

Pruna is one of the few remaining villages that still performs the ritual Descent the Cross, a reconstruction of the removal of Christ's dead body from the cross. For this event a street is blocked off with a big screen on which is depicted mass crucifixions, amid sounds of thunder and lightening flashes the body is taken down and placed on a bier for removal. To get to the area of this descension you have to walk down a street that has had all its street lights turned off and on every balcony there is a flaming torch to give the scene a Gothic splendour.

The history of Pruna is muddled, but certain facts are known. Greek artifacts have been found from when the Phoenicians managed the area, in fact it is believed that Pruna was named by the Greeks.  Roman tombs and and ceramics have been discovered and a great walk is through the olive groves to a Roman Aquaduct.

After the take-over by the Moors, The Castillo de Hierro formed part of the defence system of this part of the Kingdom. The rocky outcrop above Pruna provided the ideal location for a castle and barracks. It formed part of a line of castles each of which was in visual contact with the next. Olvera, Vallehermoso, Zahara, and La Cordillera de Ronda la Vieja.

In 1250 Fernando III retook Pruna as part of the Christians reconquest of all of Sevilla. The next 157 years saw many battles until 1407 saw the definitive conquest of Pruna by the forces of Ferdinand and Isabella.

There is a gory story attached to the actual taking of the Pruna castle, passed down through the generations: The Moors were firmly entrenched in the heavily guarded barracks at the top of a very steep climb. So the locals went to a 'hill of oaks' and there they tied unlit torches to the tails of the goats. The goats were then taken to the bottom of the hill and the torches were lit. The goats scrambled to escape the fire climbing ever higher, setting the grassland alight as they ran. The terrified Muslim soldiers flung themselves over the cliff of the castle to get away from the flames and the monsters. So many died that the water was said to run red with blood, and the stream has been known as Arroyo Sanguino (river of blood) ever since.

From 1407 Pruna was protected by the Order of Calatrava, a religious military organisation,until 1457, when Enrique IV gave the village to Don Rodrigo de Ribera who by managing to keep Pruna safe from the Moors was therefore allowed to keep the land so long as he did not sell it.

The actual siting of modern day Pruna is thought to be the site of the old watch tower, at the side of the road between Ronda and Osuna, (on the present day Calle Ronda). He sent the population from the 'old' village of Pruna, beside the castle to this spot, in order to be 'Within range of a rifle shot of the castle and fortress of the village of Pruna'. It is thought the move was made to escape the unhygienic, and epidemic ravaged confines of the castle, which was also excessively hot in the summer. 

In the 16th century Pruna became registered as a town, and then, in the 18th century  Pruna was swapped for Villamartin by the Duque de Osuna, who made Pruna into a municipality with Algamitas and El Jaral. 
The 18th century saw both an increase in prosperity, and population. In the 1787 census it had reached 2156 (1160 women and 996 men). Agriculture was the main economic activity, producing in order of importance: beans, wheat, barley, vines and olives. 

Flea markets of Seville

Seville is a great day out from Pruna/Olvera and from many other surrounding towns and villages. We all know about the the tourist attractions, but Seville has four famous markets, which people watchers and bargain hunters can easily enjoy.

The specialist collectors Flea market; The Mercadillo Filatelico, specialises in stamps, old coins, postcards, and other ephemera. This is held in the Plaza de Cabildo (close to the Cathederal) every Sunday from 8am until 2pm.This market has grown in recent years and become a hive of collecting activity. Do haggle.

Dirección: Plaza del Cabildo
Horario: Domingos por la mañana
Autobuses para llegar: C5
Metro: Con la línea C del metro.

The Mercadillo de la Alameda is not only a flea market, it has much more than antique stalls, craft stalls, clothing, flowers, Spanish dolls, and Moroccan lamps are also sold here. 

Dirección: Avenida Carlos III (antiguamente: Alameda de Hércules)
Horario: Sábados y domingos por la mañana
Transporte para llegar: Se puede usar el transporte de las líneas C1 – C2

Paseo del Arte

This weekend market is placed below the Triana bridge on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. Not so many antiques or second hand articles, more of an art and crafts market with artisanal products, such as home made soap and ceramics also sold.

Saturdays and Sundays from 10am until 2pm.

Dirección: Paseo de la O (Triana)
Horario: Sábados y Domingos de 10:00 am hasta las 14 hrs.
Acceso: por la calle Betis (debajo del Puente Triana) y por el Callejón de la Inquisició

The Mercadillo del Duque la Magdelena market is famous for it's jewellry and and accessories. It sells perfume, soaps, scarves, bags and it an ideal place to find presents, and just befoer Christmas the market expands and has many more stalls making it a kind of Spanish Christmas market.

The market can be found in the Arenal area of Seville, open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, from 10am to 9pm. (I have heard that it is also open on a Sunday, but the official sites say it is only opne thursday to Saturday, please, if you know different make a comment)

Dirección: Plaza del Duque
Horario: Jueves, viernes y sábados
Autobuses para llegar: Autobuses B2 – C5 – 13 – 14

Day trip to Moron, just a 35 mins drive from Pruna

And of course there is a weekday bus to Moron from Olvera, 4.15pm, and you can catch the 8pm bus back, so it is doable without a car.

Driving to Moron on the A406, which is the main road, do not take the road to the left as indicated by the signpost, this is a trap to get you into a one way system through tiny streets of shabby houses until your car limps out and you return back to Pruna or Olvera to do your shopping there. The reall way to enter Moron is to drive on as if going to Seville and when you see the big Eroski supermarket on the roundabout you turn left up there. (if you go one further left, almost around the roundabout that takes you to the bus station behind Eroski).

You will need to drive over two more roaundabouts until you reach the Bull Ring, there is plenty of parking on any of the three turn off roads and it is nice to park here and wander into town.

The market day is Wednesday, and it is the biggest market in the area, and seems to specialise in second hand stall which if you adore vintage clothes means you can bag a bargain jacket for 2 euros. Last week (mid january) I bought a fantstic condition 1960s fake fur coat for 15 euros, really snuggly and warm. I have also bought fair isle cardigans (the real McCoy) for 1 euro! Sometimes, during Fiestas, the market moves from the bull ring to alongside the roundabout with the jet on it, next to the cemetary.

The large town of Morón de la Frontera (population 30,000) rises above the skyline as you approach it from the plains of Seville. Moron de la Frontera was once an important centre of a Moorish taifa and is named after the Moors. It is dominated by a ruined Medieval castle, with several impressive churches dotted around its narrow pretty streets.

Morón de la Frontera has always been an important defensive position and its castle was one of the most important in the area. It is now a ruin and open to all. The elevated position makes it great viewing post.

The other notable architectural monument is Iglesia de San Miguel, It has a ornate Baroque portal designed by Diego Antonio Díaz and a 17th-century bell tower, modelled along the lines of Seville cathedral's Giralda. There is also San Ignacio church which dates from the early 18th century and has an impressive Baroque entrance, carved from sandstone, and inside is a collection of large oil religious paintings by the Flemish painter Peter van Lint.

In July Moron has its annual flamenco festival, one of the best known of its kind and known as 'Gazpacho Andaluz'. Established in 1963, it features flamenco baile (dance) and cante (song) and serves the customary gazpacho, the  Andalucian chilled soup.

The open air public swimming pool in Moron is the best in the area, with four pools, one Olympic sized, one 'normal' and two paddling pools. It is set in parkland and has a lovely restaurant cafe with a small playarea attached. You can find this on the road straight ahead at the bull ring roundabout, it is open all of July and August.

There is an indoor swimming pool, turn right at the roundabout with the jet fighter on it when driving up to the bull ring. You will need four euros, ID, flip flops, swim hat, and you must shower before entering the pool at the pool side showers.

The Sherry tours of Jerez,

A visit to the Tio Pepe Sherry Bodega

Jerez is a city yo will have to visit often if you live near Olvera or Pruna, it has the best IKEA, a Leroy Merlin, A Brico (think B&Q), great shops, and the awful but essential central offices for getting your paperwork sorted. But you can make a mini holiday out of a visit by booking a hotel. Then you will be able to enjoy a tour of a sherry bodega. And Tio Pepe is my favourite.

Prices for the Jerez Wine and Brandy Tour:

• Jerez Wine and Brandy Tour + 2 wines = 14€
• Jerez Wine and Brandy Tour + 4 wines = 17€
• Jerez Wine and Brandy Tour + 2 wines and Tapas = 17€
• Jerez Wine and Brandy Tour + 4 wines and Tapas = 20€
• Children 4 to 17 years half price (but can drink nothing alcoholic)
• Children under 4 go in for free

A tour lasts 90 minutes

Tours times (Monday to Saturday. From 1 June to 31 October):

• Spanish Tour: 12.00 - 13.00 - 14.00 - 17.00 - 18.00
• English Tour: 12.00 - 13.00 - 14.00 - 17.15
• German Tour: 12.15 - 14.00 - 17.15

(Monday to Saturday. From 1 November 1 to 31 May):

• Spanish Tour: 12.00 - 13.00 - 14.00 - 16.00 - 17.00
• English Tour: 12.00 - 13.00 - 14.00 - 17.00
• German Tour: 12.15 - 14.00 - 16.00

(Sunday):

• Spanish Tour: 12.00 - 13.00 - 14.00
• English Tour: 12.00 - 13.00 - 14.00
• German Tour: 12.15 - 14.00

The Tío Pepe bodega is wheelchair accessible directly  from the  parking lot. 

You can find the Bodega here:

Calle de Manuel María González, 12. 11403.
Jerez de la Frontera. Cadiz.
Tlf. 956 35 70 16

reservas@gonzalezbyass.es

GPS: 36º 40' 48.28" N - 6º 08' 36.74" O

Italica, the remains of a Roman city

Just a ninty minute drive from Pruna is the beautiful array of ruins from an ancient Roman city. I suggest doing this trip on a Wwednesday so you can include a visit to the Moron de la Frontera market by the bull ring, it adds to the dasy and you have to drive in through Moron in anycase.

Just North of Seville, the ringroad takes you up over the river and then Italica is clearly signposted. The Roman city ruins with remarkable mosaics and Amphetheatre of Italica are located less than 9 kilometres to the north of the city, just outside the village of Santiponce.

In the ruins itself tehre are very few amenities, one set of toilets, and a vending machine with tables and chairs. Opposite the centre are several restaurants and cafes so refreshment and holiday style dining is easily to hand. Close by is also a well preserved Roman theatre in Santiponce, which was closed when I visited, with no information on opening times. Loads of parking there and entrance is free (when open).

Italica was the birthplace of three emperors and one of the earliest Roman settlements in Spain founded in 206 BC. It rose to considerable military importance in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. Throughout the Middle Ages, the ruins were used as a source of stone for Seville, but fortunately the amphitheatre has survived, although these days it is crumbling perilously. Beyond this are about twenty mosaics, including an excellent coloured floor with birds, Neptune and the Seasons.

Avenida de Extremadura, 2
41970 Santiponce (Sevilla)

Tel: +34 600 141 767
Email: info.italica.ccd@juntadeandalucia.es

OPENING HOURS:

1 Jan - 31 March and 16 September - 31 December:
Tuesday to Saturday: 09.00-17.30 hrs
Sunday and public holidays: 09.00-15.30.
Monday (excluding bank holydays): closed

1 April - 15 June:
Tuesday to Saturday: 09.00-19.30
Sunday and public holidays: 10.00-15.30 
Monday (excluding bank holydays): closed

16 June - 15 September:
Tuesday to Sunday and public holidays: 09.00-15.30
Monday (excluding bank holydays): closed

Last entrance 30 minutes before closing time.

Open on all the bank holidays, except:
1 and 6 January
1 May
24, 25 and 31 December