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Spanish Shilling

Some stories and experiences after a lifetime spent in Spain

Now, What Was I Going To Tell You?
Tuesday, August 20, 2024 @ 9:42 PM

Churning through the media articles every day to find material for my weekly bulletin about Spain, I often find pieces which are designed to make the reader go past the title and into the text – surrounded as it is with advertisements, pop-ups and, of course, the EU’s insistence on asking us if it’s OK to place cookies on our phone every bloody time.

Then along comes the text that says: ‘We notice you’re using an ad-blocker…’

Damn right I am.

But despite all this, yes, I have decided that I want to read about ‘We’ve Found the Best Village in Spain’. So, open the stupid link, already!

This is called click-bait, when they don’t tell you the very vital thing you wanted to see in the headline, which is why you have to click into the story. Usually, they’ll get around to the subject in hand in the third or fourth paragraph, after you have hurdled a long diatribe about Spain’s wonderful unknown and unspoiled pueblos, a couple of adverts for shoes, shirts, or a merry cruise to Norway and an insistent request to subscribe.

The problem often being that – I guess if enough people read the article – which may have started out life somewhere else (Google has an uncanny trait of rumbling unoriginal material) then when you take the plunge and finally arrive at the destination itself, at least for lunch and a look-see, it’s going to be full of fellow-readers and, well, sorry to tell you, but – thanks to the recent media-exposure – You May Need to Book!

Annoying for those who bought a place there some years previously, precisely because it was off the beaten track.

These ‘beautiful’ or ‘best kept secret’ articles are easy to write (thanks Wikipedia!) and they fill a space. How many times have you seen a picture of that street covered by a huge rock in Setenil de las Bodegas (Cádiz) or that embarrassing pueblo in Málaga they painted blue?

Right now, there are endless stories of ‘a pretty village in Spain where they want to ban tourists’. Above all apparently, the ones who take ‘selfies’, according to one gloomy home-owner. Often called ‘The little Mykonos’ (by absolutely nobody except copy-editors, I suspect), the village – Binibeca Vell – is in fact a 1972 urbanisation on the edge of San Luís in Menorca. And it’s probably not looking its best after the heavy rains last week.

See, it gets full of visitors, which is no doubt a treat for the local souvenir shop, but it is kind of a nuisance for everybody else.

There may be lots of money in tourism, but it doesn’t get spread around as fairly as it might.

The alternative is to tell the locals to stay inside so as not to inconvenience the cruise-ship trippers (as happened on the Greek island of Santorini the other day), or close the local bar (as reported in a pueblo in Galicia – ‘We don’t want any Madrid tourists here giving themselves airs’, explained the owner in garbled Galician). A fellow from Barcelona says that in his city, ‘We don’t walk in a straight line any more, we dodge’. Over in Santiago de Compostela, the locals complain about the pilgrims – ‘it’s like Easter every day of the year’.

How about Peñiscola, in Castellón? Eight thousand people live there, and there are 25 visitors for every resident. ‘Excuse me, coming through…’ (My own Mojácar is in sixth place according to the media report).

No doubt the city fathers would prefer wealthy tourists – the ones who spend and tip lavishly – while not so much the other kind, who drink a few beers and are sick in the fabled village gardens. Or, worse still, the ones who spray-paint an esteemed foreign resident’s eleven million dollar home. But, sad to say, you can’t really have the one kind of visitor without the other, unless there’s a fellow in a uniform at the gate. Also – wealthy people don’t necessarily behave themselves better.

Tourism is either packing as many sights into a short vacation as one can (‘If this is Tuesday, this must be Belgium’) or spending the holiday in one single place, usually to relax and get pissed. Both have their merits and – evidently – their issues.

But, don’t we have a right to two holidays away each year? (We can except us foreign residents in this instance, with a car-trip across Spain or a weekend in a Parador. For one thing, we don’t tend to travel in packs).

The point is this: would Spanish tourists suddenly come to your town in the UK or Germany and behave in the same way – and if they (by some miracle) they did – how would you feel? A thousand drunken Spaniards in Hatfield (dubbed as ‘The Most Boring Town in England’) wearing Gibraltar Español tee-shirts and singing loudly and tunelessly as Henry over at The Red Lion gleefully fills them up with more drinks.  

So remember, as you scan the blogs and news-sites for fresh and interesting places to visit:

‘Your vacation spot is somebody else’s home’.

 



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6 Comments


PablodeRonda said:
Saturday, August 24, 2024 @ 10:45 AM

I enjoyed your witty and, I hope tongue-in-cheek, article. However, I must take issue with you over your slightly snide comments about two lovely pueblos blancos near where I live in the Serrania de Ronda.
Setenil de las Bodegas is delightful, like no other village I've been to anywhere in Spain. I agree that it is over-run with tourists (since Covid, I reckon), but we cannot begrudge visitors their right to come and look at beautiful locations.
The same applies to the blue village,Juzcar (which you didn't name, oddly). The decision of the village to allow the makers of the film about the Smurfs was a God-send.
The tourist dollars that have found their way into the pockets of the Juzcar people have been very welcome.
I think tourism is Spain's biggest industry. My strong view is that the residents of Barcelona, Valencia, Malaga, Cadiz, and the Balearics should stop demonstrating and be wary of what they wish for. Malaga without tourists, for example, would take a huge economic hit. Why bite the hand that feeds you?


lenox said:
Saturday, August 24, 2024 @ 12:13 PM

Tourism is fine - and we all have the right to go and visit places, but there comes a time when those places become resorts, and later (even) disney-villes. I spend my time half in Mojácar with all its businesses, souvenir-shops, buses, traffic jams, beach bars (with 'security' at the doors), hotels, Christian ladies offering bible-reading - as I saw yesterday, charity shops, menus only in English and pop-groups playing Knockin' on Heaven's Door and Blue Suede Shoes. The other half I spend in an ugly working-class beach suburb near the city - where the last bar closes around eight in the evening and the only other language spoken there is Arabic. The only time the newspapers talk about this place is when there's a marijuana bust in one of the invernaderos. Tourism, as the waiters living in vans will tell you in Ibiza, means money, lots of money: but only for the few.





lenox said:
Saturday, August 24, 2024 @ 12:28 PM

I live half on my time in a pueblo that's a tourist destination. It has so many visitors, that the residents are forgotten by the local hierarchy (even though we outnumber them). Tourism is fine, but as we have seen, the money doesn't get spread around. The waiters in Ibiza are famously living in tents or vans. In Mojácar, we have beach-bars with 'security' at the door, souvenir shops selling Chinese sparkles, traffic jams, pop groups playing Knockin' on Heaven's Door or Blue Suede Shoes. We have to book to have lunch somewhere. I saw some Christian ladies offering bible-reading yesterday. We have buses and all-inclusive hotels. The town promotes itself as being Walt Disney's birthplace. Our menus are often only in English. I also spend time in a working-class suburb of our local city. It's on the beach (no beachbars) and the only foreign language you'll find there is Arabic. There are no hotels, no bar open after 8.00pm, and the only time it makes the newspapers is when there's a marijuana bust in one of the invernaderos. Which is better? I dunno.





lenox said:
Saturday, August 24, 2024 @ 12:29 PM

I give up. I wrote a long answer. Twice. :(





eos_ian said:
Saturday, August 24, 2024 @ 12:31 PM

Corrected. I hope....


PablodeRonda said:
Tuesday, August 27, 2024 @ 7:52 PM

I understand that tourism can have its downside. Mojacar sounds horrendous now. We spent two weeks there back in 1989, when it was clearly less touristy. It was delightful. My kids were 5 and 2 (they're now 40 and 37) and we had a great time.
I think its the responsibility of local councils to control tourist development and not just be greedy.


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