A Foot in Two Campos

Thoughts from a brand new home-owner in the Axarquía region of Málaga. I hope there might be some information and experiences of use to other new purchasers, plus the occasional line to provoke thought or discussion.

54 - Going West
Thursday, May 2, 2013 @ 3:44 PM

I headed west last week. I didn't like it.

Not far west, I stayed within Málaga province. I'd already been further west and loved Huelva and Cadiz provinces - stunning coastline with some brilliant secluded beaches. And since choosing to settle in the Axarquía region I've obviously explored east of Málaga. But I had reached my ripe old age without ever visiting Marbella.

The opportunity arose when I was invited to a multi-national networking event in San Pedro de Alcántara. It was a chance to visit many places I'd heard of on the way. I drove through Mijas-Costa but didn't like it. I drove around Calahonda, Elviria and Rosario but didn't like them. I drove through Nueva Andalucía but didn’t like it. I didn’t get as far as Estepona. West of Málaga seems to me to be an endless strip of over-developed resorts and urbanisations.

There was one brief respite when I spotted a stretch of sea backed by dunes and pine forests. A pleasant walk through the naturaleza, half an hour on the beach, and then a drink at a beach bar cheered me up and offered a break from the endless urbanisations with their English bars.

At San Pedro de Alcántara I checked in, then found a quiet bar for a media-racion de calamaritos. The networking event was fun. People from 17 nations gathered, mingled, and separated inevitably into clusters. Six of us (two Spanish, one Portuguese, one Mexican, one Russian/Finnish, and me as the token Brit) headed off to find food. I love how an apparently unprepossessing backstreet bar can so often turn out to do the best food. We got to El Candil de San Pedro around midnight, and didn't leave till 2.30, and in between Alfonso brought us plate after plate of delicious hot and cold tapas including ensaladilla rusa, tortilla de espárragos, jamon, ensaladilla de tomate, cebolla y melva, salchichon, queso viejo, frutas secas y nueces, and finally his grandmother's secret recipe for salmorejo, with her special addition of chunks of fresh orange. With a juice, some water and a decent bottle of wine the bill between six of us came to a massive €41.

Next day was the chance for that first ever visit to Puerto Banus and Marbella. The first shock was having to PAY for street parking in Puerto Banus! Half the cars had blacked-out windows, and despite the cloudy day most people were wearing sunshades. There seemed to be two main groups of people - rich people in elegant clothes carrying miniature dogs, speaking German, Russian, Dutch and Italian, and several large gaggles of English girls in sprayed-on shorts and tight tops apparently visiting from The Only Way is Essex. Of course the main point of Puerto Banus is the ~~shops~~ - oops sorry, I mean the boats. It was nice to wander round the luxury yachts, especially because it appeared to be the week before some owners were due, so there was a lot of furious activity from muscled men stripped to the waist rubbing down woodwork, which was pleasantly diverting! Several tanning shops surprised me – why would one pay? The sun is widely available and free! Fake tans in a fake setting. To visit for an hour? Fine. And that was enough.

On to Marbella. The locals the night before had advised me to skip the sea-front and head for the old town, which was attractive with pretty backstreets, squares and castle walls. Accents were mostly English, American and French. La Plaza de los Naranjos was a highlight, as was spotting a prettily-decorated motor-scooter with a matching owner! Any town with quirky residents has an up-side!. A pleasant town but no big deal, then a glance in an estate-agent's window reminded me that this is meant to be the jewel of the Costa del Sol. A one-bedroomed flat with no sea views was €275,000. Presumably for the address. Up above the town I could see hints of some of the multi-million-euro mansions that apparently make Marbella so special. Overall, I didn't really get it.

Half an hour later I reached the city of Málaga. Stopped for a coffee, pleased to feel I was back in "my manor". Driving north up the A-45 then east into the hills, I passed the sign to enter the Axarquía. I felt a smile creep across my face. I guess I'm just an East-of-Málaga sort of person.

THIS WEEK’S LANGUAGE POINT:

In English we use the gerund (“-ing” form) after “thank you for”, as in “Thank you for calling me” and “Thank you for sending it to him”. But in Spanish we use the infinitive, not the -ing form, so it’s “Gracias por llamarme” and “Gracias por enviarselo.”

0 Like

Permalink

Spam post or Abuse? Please let us know

21 Comments

Patricia (Campana) said:
Thursday, May 2, 2013 @ 4:17 PM

Awww, Tamara, you didn't like my "home town".

I agree Puerto Banús is "blingy" awful, and as for the touristy so-called"old town" with its tourist trap Plaza de los Naranjos (where nobody actually from Marbella would be seen sitting down for an over-priced drink or coffee). I also agree with you about the dreadful developments along the coast.
However, there is a very large Spanish population in Marbella, and indeed other nationalities, like myself, who were/are not there for the "bling" but because it is where we work and live. But you have to go further up the back of actual town, and there are great local bars and indeed restaurants, also on up in the "circunvalación" area. But, one has to be in the know, and friends and relatives of ours visiting over the years would have seen (with us as guides) a different side to Marbella.

I expect a place is different when you live there, gain friends over the years, know the inside, so to speak. I don't think I have been inside an "English bar" in my life!

"You LIVE in Marbella!!", aah the times I have heard that over the decades, usually accompanied by a look of awe. Heh heh. I am afraid I had to disappoint by replying that I hadn't set foot in Ptº Banús in many years, that blingy jewellery was not my thing, that I didn't party every night, and that I didn't have a lot of time for lying around in the sun either.
A surprising number of expatriates in that area would hold the same views as I do. Any true marbellí will tell you that Ptº Banús is for posers and "horteros/as" (the fake tanners you describe, and the silly sun-glasses, as in "I'm so famous I don't wish to be recognised"). To give you a laugh: there was, and probably still is, a car hire company which hires out luxury cars for say an hour or few hours, to allow some idiot to drive the car (yes, with the sun-glasses on, lol) around the port area to show off. How pathetic is that!!
Then again I expect there are posers and wannabes in every part of the world. I've certainly seen my share of them in my native Dublin particularly during those boom years....

The "real deal" rich and famous in Marbella and environs keep to themselves in their own and their friends' homes. Now and then you may see one or other of them on an ordinary street in the town, dressed like everyone else, probably on a shopping or other errand.

I love the countryside, and I would live happily in a small village, but it would be hard to give up on the friends, acquaintances, feelings, atmosphere, memories......I think.

Tamara said:
Thursday, May 2, 2013 @ 6:26 PM

Sorry Patricia!!! I knew lots of people would disagree (though I mostly expect the urbanisation people to disagree - probably less politely than you did!). But the way I see it, is that isn't it just as well we all like different places? Or there'd be no room in Colmenar, or Elviria, or wherever. As it is, we can all choose our OWN paradise and enjoy it quietly :-). If I have to go west again, perhaps you'll show me your favourite tapas bar Patricia?

Patricia (Campana) said:
Thursday, May 2, 2013 @ 8:18 PM

Of course I will, Tamara! And many other places.
I think one short visit can't really give a picture...

I think home is where the heart is too.
As for those large developments, well I suppose they do suit some people. There are pros and cons to living in them. If well run, and that is the operative term, they are not unpleasant.

I'd probably be happy in most places, even in the montes de Málaga. I can remember when it took the best part of 40 minutes to get as far as Venta Gaspar (does it still exist?) in Colmenar, from Málaga. Back then no one (or very few) would have considered living in the mountains (communications were poor, rural electrification had not reached some...). But I loved that area, it was like driving through another, isolated, world.

I actually didn't choose Marbella, oddly enough. And I have lived in other parts of the country.
It was one of those flukes. But that's another story for another day.
When one lives separate from the "chavvy and blingy stuff" in the everyday working world, then the place, be it Marbella, Sedella, Colmenar or wherever, is just "home".

Patricia (Campana) said:
Thursday, May 2, 2013 @ 8:51 PM

Just to be going on with (and it is actually close to the main drag!) this little place has been around since the 50s.

http://baresdeandalucia.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Bar-el-Estrecho-en-Marbella.jpg

Louise said:
Thursday, May 2, 2013 @ 10:40 PM

Its not somewhere that I would choose to live but we do enjoy the odd afternoon there looking at the lovely boats and we treat ourselves to one drink and maybe an ice-cream so that we can sit and watch those who think they are above the rest and then you get the English with their football shirts on lowering the tone!! We too have eaten in Orange square at over inflated prices. Its not something I would bother with again though. I also look in the estate agents windows and nowadays you see the prices slashed by half a million or more! Its the kind of place that is worth a visit but maybe you need someone like Patricia who really knows the area and can show you the more normal side or the more Spanish areas? I would be happy to explore the 'nicer' areas. :)

Patricia (Campana) said:
Thursday, May 2, 2013 @ 11:33 PM

It really is very different from what it appears on the surface, Louise. Also the hype and the stereotyping haven't helped....

Literally 60 paces off the old main road leading into the town (turn right into the Puente Málaga area) and you are in what is just a Spanish town. Keep walking along (stop for a good coffee at the Horno San Andrés, and you may be the only non-Spanish person there), and then wander up into the Divina Pastora area and beyond. Or keep going uphill from Puente Málaga, through a rather nice park, until you are closer to the circunvalación. Another world. Not an extranjero in sight heh heh.

I think the last time I actually sat down in the Orange Square was before we were married, quite a while ago, lol. And I wasn't paying!

As I said, friends and relatives who have visited Marbella over the years got a short list from us of "the where to go and what to do variety". The list didn't include the obvious traps.
Maybe I should write a book.

Moya said:
Friday, May 3, 2013 @ 1:12 PM

'though I mostly expect the urbanisation people to disagree - probably less politely than you did' - this comment in my opinion is far from polite. Not all people who have homes on an urbanisation are rude.

graeme said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 8:14 AM

Patricia...we also live in a village that has a "tourist side" and an old town spanish feel...

When any rental clients arrive i make a point of showing them both but after that, they are on their own.

The tourist side is way to convenient for them but everyone who made the effort to get down to the old town had nothing but good things to tell me.

Cheers
Graeme

Bengt said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 8:40 AM

I have to agree with you. Having rented apartments three times for holidays I found the areas around Marbella too overdeveloped. I had earlier spent time in Southern Catalonia which is in my opinion much nicer and we later decided too buy a holiday flat.
The worst thing we found was that a lot of the cafeterias and restaurants were not open in early May. To get somewhere to eat you really needed to go by car.
But the part I liked best was actually Estepona (the most east I went). A real town with a beach walk, cafes and other things.

By the way, what strange autocorrect features this form seems to have?

Tamara said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 9:48 AM

Oh that's interesting Bengt - so I might have stopped just a little too early? Ah well, next time I'll continue on to Estepona. Looks like I have to go back and see Marbella properly! Several people on Twitter and on the blog's main "home" have offered me guided tours! And I've got Patricia's suggestions to check out :-)

Chris said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 10:35 AM

I agree with Moya, I think it was rather rude to assume that people who live in the urbanisations would impolite in any response to your blog. Calahonda has many nationalities living there (like a lot of the coast), and but I think you may have been referring to the stereotypical British contingent, who are more likely to live in the urbanisations.

We own a timeshare in Sitio de Calahonda so only visit rather than live there but we enjoy returning on a regular basis. We use it as a base and always hire a car and have been to places all along the coast and inland and seen some lovely places like Istan, Ojen, Ronda etc.

Just because an urbanisation isn't "typically Spanish" doesn't mean that it isn't a good place to live, lots of people live and work in the areas and I would liken them to the new towns in the UK. They are different but not necessarily a bad thing. Calahonda has good and bad points and if people ask me I tell them the truth about the place. Its not the place to stay if you specifically want a typical Spanish town, an amazing beach or stunning view but it does have its own charm and we like it there plus our favourite restaurant which deserves a Michelin star in my opinion.

This year we are spending a week in Estepona, which we love and a 2nd week in Calahonda. We use both places as bases to explore and find the unspoiled Spain, especially inland and we have been east of Malaga and up to Nerja. This year we are going to visit the Lake Vinuela area and visit a friend there.

Everybody has different expectations of the places they visit, so its horses for courses I guess, what suits one person won't necessarily suit another. I just find exploring the countryside and coastline exciting and experiencing the contrasts. We are looking forward to another wonderful holiday in Malaga province in September and enjoying its diversity of places.

joanna said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 12:12 PM

I first went to Estepona when I was 9, and I'm 57 now, so I have seen it grow and change, but I still love it.
It's still Spanish enough, without any big hotels, (except those outside the town itself), and has all the amenities anyone would need. The beach is hardly ever busy and clean, we have our own 'Orange Square', and some of the shops were there that first day I arrived.
I have a small flat there, I wish I could afford a small house though, and I wish I could afford to go more often!

Patricia (Campana) said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 3:16 PM

Indeed yes, Graeme. But what is touted as the "old town" in Marbella isn't. It might have been in times gone by. So, yes, I take people or send them to the more workaday areas of Marbella, and they are always pleasantly surprised to find that at such a short distance they could be anywhere but the Marbella of the tourist office brochures. And all the cafés and restaurants are open all year round. After all they are catering for the local population.

As for the housing developments and apartment complexes, I agree that there is nothing wrong with them as a place to live. People are entitled to their preferences. Certainly, development was overdone, and in the past some very ugly buildings and estates were thrown up. The architecture did improve with time, as did landscaping concepts etc.
Housing developments/residential complexes exist throughout Spain, not just in tourist areas.

The only problem I can see with a development (be it houses or apartments) are the owners/residents who will not pay their service charges, needed in order to keep the grounds, pool (if any), security, and public areas well maintained and pleasant. Then these same people complain when a place starts to look like a slum. It is also grossly unfair to the owners who do pay.
The job of managing any development is a thankless one and I wouldn't take it on for the world.

Likes and dislikes do indeed vary. I am not that keen on either Estepona or San Pedro. Then again my husband tells me I am a "marbellí de los piés a la cabeza".

There are a few lovely old boutique type hotels in Marbella town. La Villa Marbella, for example, in C/ Príncipe.

As Chris points out, the countryside inland is a short distance from Marbella, and there are lots of ventas to be found, offering good food and during the hunting season there are interesting game dishes on offer too.

knowledgeseeker said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 3:43 PM

Patricia,
Very interesting reading your comments, thank you. Don't write that book though, then the places wouldn't be 'secret' anymore! I too would like to know of them, though living in the 'Old Town' myself I may know some of them, at least, already.

I must take you up on one thing, you seem to be confusing the Old Town with the 'Normal Town', a place where people live and work without any tourist element. An Old Town is a historic area in which, principally, the architecture and conurbation are the same as the period in which it was created, not necessarily a town where people live and work without reference to tourism. Marbella Old Town hence is correctly described as an old town and as such is of interest to tourists. (it could not have been an Old Town in years gone by, it wasn't old then....:-) )

I think the best thing about living in a town like Marbella (well, the old town part) is the ability to walk everywhere, including when you go out at night. No parking spaces to find, no car park charges, no need for taxis, bliss...

knowledgeseeker said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 3:50 PM

Patricia,
Very interesting reading your comments, thank you. Don't write that book though, then the places wouldn't be 'secret' anymore! I too would like to know of them, though living in the 'Old Town' myself I may know some of them, at least, already.

I must take you up on one thing, you seem to be confusing the Old Town with the 'Normal Town', a place where people live and work without any tourist element. An Old Town is a historic area in which, principally, the architecture and conurbation are the same as the period in which it was created, not necessarily a town where people live and work without reference to tourism. Marbella Old Town hence is correctly described as an old town and as such is of interest to tourists. (it could not have been an Old Town in years gone by, it wasn't old then....:-) )

I think the best thing about living in a town like Marbella (well, the old town part) is the ability to walk everywhere, including when you go out at night. No parking spaces to find, no car park charges, no need for taxis, bliss...

Patricia (Campana) said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 4:06 PM

Knowledge, yes, of course I know what you mean!! No confusion.
It is just that the "old town" (and certainly parts are very old indeed as you and I know), became, so to speak, the new touristy area. As Tamara pointed out, all she heard on her Orange Square trek were accents from other countries.

Gosh, I can remember going up to the Sevillana office in the Castillo to pay the electricity bill!

I smile at your expression the "Normal Town". Quite so.....although a lot of what is not exactly normal goes on there too heh heh.

Many people probably equate Marbella with all the blingy outlying areas, (the urban district), "that particular marina" etc.

No, I think I shall only give a select few a list of those secret (or not so secret) places.
And don't get me wrong, I enjoy going now and then to a fancier establishment!

knowledgeseeker said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 5:01 PM

Exactly Patricia, Orange Square has a very 'Disney' feel to me.
And when you see what a lot of the 'main stream' restaurants are charging as well, compared to what the costs are elsewhere well...

Patricia (Campana) said:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 @ 6:29 PM

Anyhow, here are two suggestions:

"Usategui" (very unpretentious indeed) , on the ground floor of Edificio El Palomar (El Mirador) Marbella. Excellent vegetable/salad dishes, aside from the fish and meat.

And then on to San Pedro:

"Lurra" (also Basque) , a bar/restaurante in Avda. Constitución 15. San Pedro.

Tamara said:
Monday, May 6, 2013 @ 8:13 AM

Very many thanks to Patricia and the other Marbella folks for a hugely enjoyable and spirited defence of their patch! I'm looking forward to a return visit to check it out - but I agree with knowledgeseeker, don't write that book! Just tell a select few people!!!

Marie said:
Friday, July 5, 2013 @ 12:32 PM

Hi Tamara,
I have been reading lots of your article and I think I'm stalking you now, just as you are stalking Molly!
Very interesting to read your comments on Puerto Banus, Marbella and San Pedro. I can imagine it must be so different for you coming from Axarquia, another world. As goes the famous caption: "Spain is Different!"
I am a city girl (!) myself and have only been able to visit Axarquia (and other inland rural regions) for a short time before getting palpitations and going into a cold sweat! I always need to get back to the hustle and bustle of the coast! I couldn't imagine living away from the sea!
Estepona is my home town (for the last thirty years).

I like to think that Spain must be one of the most welcoming, hospitable countries for ex-patriates to re-locate to. What do you think?

I am enjoying all your articles and look forward to reading lots more.You are doing a good job describing all your experiences in your newly adopted country.

Tamara said:
Wednesday, July 17, 2013 @ 9:03 AM

Hi Marie - yes I would say Spain is DEFINITELY welcoming and friendly to us incomers. I am the only foreigner in my street, as there are very few of us in the village itself, and my neighbours could not be more welcoming. I know what you mean about getting in a cold sweat outside our own adopted patch! I LOVE visiting the great cities of Spain, our wonderful beaches, all the sights there are to see, but I can feel my blood pressure relaxing as I return to the Axarquía :-). Thank goodness we all like different parts, eh?

Only registered users can comment on this blog post. Please Sign In or Register now.

Blog home page

Tamara
I bought my dream home in July 2012 and since taking early retirement in March 2013 I have settled into a pattern of living about nine tenths of my time in Spain and one tenth in Dorset, England. My blog is entitled A Foot in Two Campos as it compares rural life in Dorset and Colmenar. But mostly my blog is about the experience of settling into a Spanish town, getting to know my new neighbours, and of course learning the language.