The Spanish Fly - Travels in Spain

The Camino de Santiago

I first heard about this pilgrimage route when I was an undergraduate studying Spanish in the north west of England. Then The Camino kept cropping up.

    [Map courtesy of Facebook]

Several writers on Spain referred to it. I went on a course through the European Union Socrates programme which was held in one of the starting points, Jaca (Aragon).

Two parishioners from my local church in Cheshire did the walk and gave a talk in church one evening with slides, which I attended.

Hollywood star Shirley MacLaine wrote a book after she had walked the route.

There was a TV series and several films. As it happens I live not far from the approved southern route. 

Why this article now?

Today at my libreria in Ronda, I stumbled across a great illustrated book on the Camino. At just 19,95 euros I couldn't resist it. A belated birthday present from me to me.

I regret not walking The Camino when I was younger and fitter. Now, aged 75, I will not be able to manage it. Covid-19 left me with issues of balance, mobility and breathlessness, so, unless I do it by car, which I shan't, I will have to continue to enjoy The Camino vicariously.

Indeed the book I bought, "Atlas Ilustrado del CAMINO DE SANTIAGO", stated on the back cover:

"Es una obra para disfrutar de la cultura y los pueblos del Camino, tanto si se piensa en hacerlo como si ya se ha hecho o solo se desea conocerlo desde casa."

[Photo by Paul Whitelock]

The Camino at 20

When I started to study Spanish ab initio at Salford University in 1968, I knew very little about Spain. That changed quickly once we got into the course and even more so when we were sent on our six months to San Sebastian.

I started to hear about the Camino de Santiago and realised it was a big deal. The cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, the ultimate destination and endpoint, is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Europe. There are six official routes starting at different points around Spain.

More on the Camino

Washington Irving, Laurie Lee and George Orwell all mentioned the Camino in their writings.

[Photos (L to R): Wikipedia; Paul Whitelock; Wikipedia]

Jaca 1998

A quarter of a century into my career in education (15 years as a languages teacher and then as a schools adviser and OfSTED inspector) I got the chance to attend a European Union Socrates Programme Spanish course in Jaca, Aragon. The course was a refresher course for professional linguists from across Europe.

Those two weeks over 25 years ago remain amongst the highlights of my life. I went with my girlfriend at the time, a languages advisory teacher based in London. Anne was predominantly a French expert with some Spanish and needed to improve her level of Spanish. I had been "out of the classroom" for nearly 10 years, so I had become somewhat rusty and needed a refresher. 

We flew from Gatwick to Tarbes in France, hired a car and headed off to Aragon via San Sebastian and Fuenterrabia. A night in the Hotel Niza on the bay of La Concha in the elegant Victorian resort followed by a night in the Parador in Fuenterrabia, arguably one of the best paradores in the near-100-strong chain.

When we got to Jaca and checked in to the training centre of the University of Aragon, we learned that this Pyrennean town was the starting point for one of the northern routes of the Camino de Santiago. The place was heaving with pilgrims/walkers.

"We should walk the Camino one day," I pronounced. Of course we never did, as our relationship sadly ended the following year.

   Jaca, Aragon [Facebook]

Oviedo 2002

My next "contact" with The Camino came when I took part in a EU Study Visit to Asturias to look at early years  foreign language provision. A foreign language, usually English, is compulsory in Spanish schools from the age of three.

On of the northern pilgrimage routes passes close by Oviedo, the town in which we were based.     

Apart from the course which was excellent and the visits to schools, I drank cider in the traditional way, enjoyed a different part of Spain and - ahem - had a little dalliance on the side. With a very open-minded German headteacher.

Oviedo [Turismo de Asturias]

Thelwall, Cheshire

John and Joan Arthurs, neighbours of ours, walked The Camino the year they both retired from work.

They gave a presentation with slides, anecdotes and not a little humour at All Saints Church in Thelwall.

I attended and felt inspired by their achievement.

   [https://allsaints.org.uk]

Shirley MacLaine

Her book "The Camino" was, for me, a disappointment. It was more a book about her mental state at the time.

   [Photo: Paul Whitelock]

TV Series

In a 2018 three-part travelogue series for BBC Two, seven famous faces were stripped of their everyday comforts to live as modern day pilgrims as they set out on the famous medieval pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago.

L to R: Kate Bottley, Raphael Rowe, Neil Morrissey, JJ Chalmers, Ed Byrne, Debbie McGee and Heather Small [BBC]

With just over a fortnight to tackle this ancient path, actor Neil Morrissey, entertainer Debbie McGee, comedian Ed Byrne, singer Heather Small, priest Kate Bottley, journalist Raphael Rowe and TV presenter JJ Chalmers hiked through France and northern Spain to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the shrine of St James.

The group - made up of a variety of faiths and beliefs, including Christian, atheist and humanist - lived as simple pilgrims. But did this journey of a lifetime change the way they thought about themselves and their faith?

The pilgrimage sorted the seasoned walkers like Ed and JJ from the strollers, such as Neil, who soon realised he might not be prepared for the task ahead. As a former Catholic, and now atheist, Neil soon discovered that the arduous experience was not bringing him any closer to God.

Meanwhile, Kate’s faith took a knock as she struggled to keep up with the group, while Raphael refused to be swayed by anything religious - in prison he clung to hope, not God, after serving time for a crime he did not commit. For Debbie, she found solace in a fellow traveller after opening up about the loss of her husband, the late magician Paul Daniels.

As they moved along the route through vast mountain ranges and stunning landscapes in France and Spain, the group explores their differing religious beliefs, bond over the physical task and find humour when they realise what living like a simple pilgrim entails.

The Film "El Camino" (The Way)

This was a fictional Hollywood film from 2010, which starred Martin Sheen and was directed by his son Emilio Estevez.

A father (Sheen) heads to Spain from the USA to recover the body of his estranged son, who died while walking the "Camino de Santiago", and decides to complete the pilgrimage in honour of his son.

I've not seen the film, but I will have a look sometime soon.

[Image courtesy of Amazon.es]    

Me and the Camino

On my bucket list for 2025 is a visit to Galicia, the only one of Spain's 17 regions I've never visited. That will include a visit to Santiago de Compostela, the ultimate destination of all the pilgrimage routes along The Way of St James.

Otherwise, as I indicated earlier my experience of The Camino will be vicarious, ie at a distance.

Photo of Santiago Cathedral [Turismo de Galicia]    

© The Spanish Fly

Links:

BBC 2: 'Pilgraimage - The Road To Santiago'

The best movies and series based on the Way of St. James - I Love Compostela

Photos:

amazon.es, BBC, Facebook, IMDb, Paul Whitelock, Turismo de Galicia, Wikipedia

Thanks:

Paul Whitelock, Wikipedia

Tags:

All Saints Church Thelwall, amazon.es, Aragon, Asturias, "Atlas Ilustrado del CAMINO DE SANTIAGO", BBC, Camino, Camino de Santiago, cider, Debbie McGee, Ed Byrne, Emilio Estevez, European Union Socrates programme, EU study visit, Facebook, Fuenterrabia, George Orwell, Heather Small, Hotel Niza, IMDb, Jaca, JJ Chalmers, John and Joan Arthurs, Kate Bottley, La Concha, Laurie Lee, Martin Sheen, Neil Morrissey, Oviedo, Parador, Paula, Paul Daniels, Paul Whitelock, pilgrimage, Raphael Rowe, San Sebastian, Shirley MacLaine, "The Way", Turismo de Galicia, Washington Irving, Wikipedia, YouTube

At the last minute it fell to me to take our German friends Iris and Heidi to Jerez airport for their Condor flight back to Hamburg.

We left Ronda at 06.00 am with the aim of getting to this delightfully small airport by 08.00 am.

Jerez Airport [andalucia.com]    

To Jerez Airport

We only took 90 minutes, as there was very little traffic at that ungodly hour. I thought I might get sleepy at the wheel, so we had arranged that Iris would take over. As it turned out she kept me awake - we didn't stop talking for the entire journey.

At Jerez Airport, you can park right by the Terminal Building, so I went in and had a coffee with them while we queued and helped with their luggage.

My car park charge was a mere 1.85 euros.

Then I headed off to El Puerto de Santa Maria, to spend a day in this delightful area. I'd been there once before in 2024 and liked it a lot.

El Puerto de Santa Maria

It was still early when I got there, just before 09.00 am. First I went to ALDI to buy some provisions before setting off to find somewhere to park.

I found a spot near the canal, but it was early and nothing was open.

So, I headed into the Old Part to look for somewhere to leave the car. I put it in an underground car park and then went for breakfast - I was starving!

I found an agreeable looking cafe with a table on the shady terrace and ordered a breakfast to die for.

Strolling around I took a series of photos to compile a photo essay on the town.

Then I stumbled on a Solidarios charity shop where I got two pictures, a belt and a cuddly toy for a mere 10 euros.

Later, after I had retrieved my car, I headed off to La Puntilla beach for a siesta.

La Puntilla

La Puntilla beach is divided into six zones. There are no chiringuitos on the beach and no hamacas to rent. It's all very natural.

I chose Zone 1, which was not busy and had a wide beach backed by palm trees. I was able to indulge my passion of nude sunbathing. I don't think I was the only one!

It was rather cloudy, which was a good thing. I drank a beer, ate some snacks and had a snooze.

Then, I went to the quiosko for a beer and had a great chat with the owner, Paco.

    [Photos by Paul Whitelock]

Home time

I left the beach around 18.00 pm and headed off home to Ronda via Median Sidonia and Arcos de la Frontera.

What a great day!

© The Spanish Fly

Links:

With thanks to:

Paul Whitelock, The Spanish Fly

Tags:

Arcos de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria, Paul Whitelock, The Spanish Fly

The other weekend I went on a journey into the unknown - to the East. To East London, to Stratford. To visit my daughter in her new home there. I still hadn't seen it since she moved last year.

    Stratford, East London [Photo courtesy of Time Out]

She was away on school camp with her youngest, (Hey!) Jude, my grandson.

    (Hey!) Jude at camp [Photos: Amy Gibbs]

Arrival in the unknown

So, I had to find her flat and get in, as it turned out, without the aid of Google Maps, since my mobile had no signal and then it ran out of charge.

My UK bank card was constantly declined so I popped into a local branch of said bank, Santander UK, the biggest bank in Britain, by the way, to try and resolve the problem.

"Sorry, sir, your card has been blocked, We'll have to issue a new one."

I explained my situation, ie that I don't live in the UK and I was only in the UK for a short family visit.

The nice lady said they would send a new card to my home address in Spain.

"That will take ages and won't solve my current problem. Can't I pick one up here, say tomorrow, Saturday morning or Monday?"

"Sorry, sir, it isn't that fast."

  [Santander Bank UK logo]    

I was beginning to hate my bank with a passion ..... until the nice lady said I could get cash from her if I could ID myself.

I handed her my passport and Spanish residence permit and she gave me 500 pounds in cash.

500 pounds [Image courtesy of FinSMEs]    

First things first

I was starving. I had eaten a very small and very early breakfast on the plane, but now needed something further.

Nowhere was open, until I discovered a Bulgarian cafe which was doing a roaring trade in breakfasts and also had a range of beers from that former eastern bloc country.

So I ordered a fry-up, which I washed down with two different beers from Bulgaria.

    My Bulgarian breakfast [Photos: PW]    

When it came to paying I had a choice of cash or my Spanish credit card.

No such luck when I boarded a bus. I had no Oyster Card and, I thought, no functioning UK bank card. 

"Sorry, sir,  we don't take cash!" the polite West Indian bus driver informed me. So I tried tapping my cancelled bank card. It worked! Or so the driver said. I think he had taken pity on me.

Finding the flat

Having acquired some cash, all I had to do was find Amy's flat without a mobile to lead me there.

Well, I managed it in the end, but it had taken a while.

I settled in, then went for a walk to The Westfield Centre, where I bought some little gifts for the grandkids and Amy and Tom. I could pay with my Spanish credit card.

I had left my 500 quid at the flat, but I had enough small change for a half pint of Beavertown at The Crown and Anchor, before heading back to Icona Point.

Icona Point [Photo courtesy of PW]    

Amy's flat is in an excellent location with views of The Olympic Village from its two balconies. West Ham United FC has taken over the former Olympic Athletics Stadium and the highest tunnel helter-skelter in the world looms large.

Between The Olympic Village and Amy's flat lies Stratford International Railway Station, a noisy junction for trains to the continent, Southern Rail, the DLR, and the London Underground.

But you soon get used to the constant noise. Let's face it, big cities are noisy places.

The Olympic Village [Photo: PW]    

The East London Beer Scene

The East End is a veritable real ale drinker's paradise, with a range of cask ales from various brewers, as well as a few brew-pubs.

I knew Tap East; King Edward VII; Ye Olde Black Bull; The Bow Bells and a few others from previous visits.

    The Bow Bells, Bow

    Tap East Brew Pub, Stratford Centre

    King Edward VII, Stratford [CAMRA]                   Ye Olde Black Bull, Stratford [CAMRA]

    All the above photos by Paul Whitelock, unless otherwise stated.

Thursday night in Stratford

In the evening I went for a stroll in the Olympic Village area looking for something to eat. Can you believe it? Everywhere was shut or in the process of closing. So I had to dine on good beer!

Then I found somewhere open, another pub with its own brewery, the quirkily named Jim &Tonic.

    Jim & Tonic, Stratford [Photos by Paul Whitelock]

Friday  Fun

Amy got back from camp late morning, so after she had freshened up went for lunch at Riverside East.

We sat outside and had a nice time, "great bantz", tasty food and quality beers from the US and Italy.

    Map: GoogleMaps              Photo: Paul Whitelock

Then it was time to go and pick up the boys from school.

School 360, very soviet-sounding, but a great school with an amazing OfSTED judgement - well deserved, in my opinion.

I had been an OfSTED inspector during my career and was very impressed with what I saw on a prior visit to the school a few years ago, when Felix first started there.

   [logo courtesy of school360.org.uk]   [Photo courtesy of e-architect]                            Jude, Amy and Felix [Photo: PW]

After school we went to the nearby shop for ice creams and drinks, then headed home via the park.

    [All three photos by Paul Whitelock]

Saturday down south

I had offered to replace Amy's en-suite shower, which was yucky and loosely fitted, so I went out early to a nearby branch of Travis Perkins to buy what I needed.

When I returned I got Felix to be my plumber's mate. This entailed him passing me things, while I explained what we were doing.

I think he could turn out like me, his grandad, and like my son Tom, his dad. We are both competent DIY-ers/amateur builders who learned from our dads.

    [Cartoon courtesy of Facebook]

After breakfast we got ready for our trip to Hastings on the train, where we were going to stay with Tom and Su to celebrate Buckley's birthday at a BBQ/garden party with extended family .....

..... and Father's Day on Sunday.

    'Standing room only' [PW]

You can read about that experience, the second part of my journey, here: 

Long weekend in the UK - Eye on Spain

Other links:

Hey Jude (Remastered 2015) - YouTube

The Building History of a 72-year-old DIY Fan - Eye on Spain

The “Crazy Guy” gets his house finished just in time - Secret Serrania de Ronda

© The Spanish Fly

With thanks to:

Eye on Spain, The Beatles, The Spanish Fly, www.help-me-ronda.com, YouTube

Pictures:

Amy Gibbs, e-architect, Facebook, Santander Bank, Susannah Austin, Time Out, Tom Whitelock, Tony Gomersal, Paul Whitelock, school360.org.uk, 

Tags:

amateur builder, Amy Gibbs, BBQ, Bow, Bow Bells, Buckley's birthday, DIY-er, East London, Edward VII, en-suite shower, Felix, garden party, Hastings, "Hey, Jude!", Jeryl Burgess, Jim & Tonic, journey to the east, Jude, Paul Whitelock, Riverside East, school 360, school camp, Stratford, Stratford Centre, Stratford International, Susannah Austin, Tap East, The Spanish Fly, Tom Whitelock, Tony Gomersal, Travis Perkins, Ye Olde Bull's Head

Can the local Spanish tell the difference? Or is it only we foreigners who struggle?

These are all names of villages round here, but which is which?

Jimena de la Frontera

Jimena is a spectacular hill village in Cadiz province, on the way from Ronda to Algeciras.

I know it well. Years ago I used to visit every fortnight when I was a "paper boy" for The Olive Press. I loved it. To find out why, read this:

   Diary of a paper boy in Andalucia - Olive Press News Spain

   [Photo: www.jimenadelafrontera.es]

Jimera de Libar

I know Jimera de Libar even better than its near-namesake. Just 20 minutes away, Estacion de Jimera is the home of Bar Allioli (now Bar Allioli y Mas), a bar with food and live music at the weekends and bank holidays, located by the railway station and with a spectacular mountain backdrop.

Owned for years by Paul Darwent and his Danish wife Synnove, it built up a reputation for quality live music and "international burgers".

    [Photo: www.andalucia.org]

After Paul's retirement it was taken over by a local Spanish restaurateur, who continues to offer live music events (with Paul's help).

Jubrique

A tiny village in the hills above Genalguacil, Jubrique (Cadiz) is small but has great views and a couple of great little restaurants.

We like it a lot.

    [Photo: Blog]

Ubrique

Ubrique (also Cadiz) is a different kettle of fish. A large town, whose main industry is leather goods.

We've been a few times but it's not in our top ten.

    [Photo: Turismo de Cadiz]

Alcala

My first experience of a town called Alcala was in Alcala La Real (Jaen). It was 2009 and I was working for The Olive Press newspaper. Boss Jon Clarke sent me there for a week to sell advertisements (The OP is a free paper) and write stories for a "special" The OP had planned for the area.

I stayed in a hotel free-of-charge and got to eat, also for free, in several restaurants in the area in return for favourable reviews.

    [Photo: Traveler]

During my time there, I also got to know the staff of Olive Country Life magazine and ended up becoming a regular columnist for them.

Other Alcalas

Closer to home in Andalucia, there are a few Alcalas. Alcala is from the Arabic word for a citadel or fortess.

The first Alcala ever to enter my consciousness was:

Alcala de Henares

Located 50 km to the east of Madrid. It's the location of the parador de turismo closest to the Spanish capital.

Although I've visited/stayed in some 50-odd of the paradores, I haven't managed this one yet.

    [Photo: Spain.info]

Alcala de los Gazules

I've seen this on many a signpost while travelling in Cadiz province, but I've never been there.

Alcala del Valle

Also in Cadiz province, I`ve been there once.

Not much to recommend it, so I shan't be going back.

Alcala de Guadaira

[Awaiting text]

Photos and Images:

andalucia.org, Blog, Paul Whitelock, Spain.info, Traveler, Wikipedia, www.jimenadelafrontera.es

© The Crazy Guy

Links:

Diary of a paper boy in Andalucia - Olive Press News Spain

Alcalá la Real.- Conexiones, un proyecto para la integración entre culturas

With thanks to:

Secret Serrania, The Olive Press, Wikipedia,

Tags:

Alcala, Alcala de Guadaira, Alcala de Henares, Alcala de los Gazules, Alcala del Valle, Alcala la Real, Diane Dennett, Jimena de Libar, Jimera de la Frontera, Jon Clarke, Olive Country Life, Paul Darwent, Synnove, The Olive Press, 

The missus and I have just enjoyed a week's holiday in the south of France, in beautiful Provence.

I'm a keen Francophile yet, because of circumstances, I haven't been to the land of Asterix the Gaul for some 15 years. I am loving it.

There are positives and negatives about wherever you go, but the negatives haven't spoilt it at all for me so far.

[Image of Asterix courtesy of Amazon]    

The negatives were:

Having to turn the car round and return home to retrieve my wallet and phone charger, which caused an almighty row with her indoors.

Problems with our car hire at Marseille airport. I shan't go into detail, suffice to say that we were at the desk for well over an hour to pick up our PRE-BOOKED car. I had a row on the phone with the booking agent (Auto Europe) and we ended up paying double the price we had originally agreed to and paid for in advance. After the holiday is over, they'll be hearing from my lawyer. There was a positive which came out of this disaster, however, when the nice man at Europcar upgraded us to a higher category car, an automatic no less, at no extra charge.

Photo of our upgrade [PW]    

Only Rita was permitted to be a driver, because my Spanish driving licence is due to expire in mid-May. Inexplicably, I may not use it, even though we are only in April. So, in Spain, you pay for a licence for a period of time, but it's not usable for the three months prior to its expiry date! Is that not some kind of institutionalised theft or fraud? I rest my case.

More negatives have been the high prices, eg drinks and restaurant food more than double what we would pay in Spain; supermarket prices for just about everything "through the roof".

No pensioner discounts on tickets to museums, art galleries and other sites. Worst of all: the cost of our accommodation. We got basic at luxury prices; in Spain it's the other way around. We always find luxury at basic prices.

    A typical menu [Photo: Paul Whitelock]

Poor internet access and brittle WiFi (although that could be a positive, of course).

I could go on …..

The positives were:

EVERYTHING ELSE

The always pleasant and polite French people; breakfast (pains au chocolat, croissants, great coffee); the beautiful landscapes and villages of Provence; no TV; and so on and so forth.

Un petit pain au chocolat [Wikipedia]    

What have we done in Provence?

Our hosts are Rita's daughter, son-in-law and three grandchildren from near Heilbronn in Germany. This is their third time at this same campsite near Avignon. They love it! Camping, Provence and this campsite.

They invited us to join them this year, so we did, although we don't lie on the ground at our age - we prefer a bit of luxury, ie a house with proper beds and ensuite bathroom. Not that we got luxury - we just paid luxury prices (see above).

Our spot on the campsite [Photo: PW]    

It's all very relaxed, we breakfast apart, but sometimes share lunch and dinner. We've planned a barbecue for Easter Sunday and a meal in a restaurant on the evening before we fly back home to Spain.

So far we've visited some enchanting Provençale villages passing through gorgeous scenery and vegetation, much of it similar to where we live in the Serrania de Ronda (Malaga, Andalucia). The villages remind me of the pretty pueblos blancos near us in Spain - except they aren't white in Provence, but a terracotta colour.

For those readers interested in names we were in Ceuvet, Gordes, L'isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Roussillon.

   Photos of Provencale villages we visited (L to R): Gorges, Ceuvet, Roussillon x 2 [Paul Whitelock]

Today it's dancing on the bridge at Avignon! ("sur le pont d'Avignon, on y danse, tout en rond")

    Le pont d'Avignon [Images courtesy of Wikipedia and YouTube]

Change of plan

My right Achilles tendon is playing up - after all the walking we've been doing, probably - so I decided to have a day off and rest it.

I snapped it over 30 years ago playing squash and after lengthy physiotherapy to get me mobile again after the operation to mend it, months in plaster and in a wheelchair, I've only ever had the odd twinge, usually in very cold weather.

Until now!

[Wikipedia]    

Knowing how much I wanted to see Avignon, the others kindly decided to postpone our visit till after the Easter weekend, and they went off to Le Beaux instead.

I had a quiet day at the campsite, spending most of the day writing.

When the others got back they told me what I'd missed and showed me photos and videos. Later they painted boiled eggs, which will be hidden around the campsite by Katrin and Gero for the children to hunt for and find on Easter Sunday morning (a very German tradition).

Easter Sunday …..

…. and we're over halfway through our stay here. All the eggs were found before we sat down together for an Easter breakfast.

That was quite international in content. The Germans all had a traditional German breakfast with bread, cheese and Wurst (except Katrin and Madita - they're vegetarian).

I stuck to my French petit-dejeuner of pain au chocolat and croissant, washed down with hot coffee.

Painted eggs [Photo: Wikipedia]    

Then Lotta, Katrin and Omma went climbing. Well, just Lotta and Katrin, as Lotta has become an enthusiast. Omma  was happy to watch.

When they returned we had a sandwich for lunch before they all went off to walk to the source of the river that flows through the campsite. I was going to go too, but then I decided to save my sore ankle, so that I could take part in the postponed trip to Avignon.

In the evening we went ahead with our planned BBQ.

The weather was pleasantly warm so we were able to sit outside together by the river and have a relaxed meal with lots of banter auf Deutsch.

I brought a bottle of the local rose to help wash it all down and a good time was had by all.

[Photo courtesy of Joom]    
 

Easter Monday

Up at 6.00 am for tea and typing. The tea is Tetley - proper stuff, mmm! Typing, yes just typing - there is no internet in our "luxury" wooden hut. I get access only when I go to Reception to collect our pre-ordered bread, croissants and pains au chocolat.

That's at 8.00 am so I'll squeeze in an hour online before the missus wants breakfast.

The revised plan for today is ….. a relaxing, flexible kind of day which might include revisiting L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for the flea market alongside the water. The Germans also want crepes again. "A load of crepe", I reckon!

A bit of food (and beer) shopping too. We've run out!

What actually happened

Gero and I went shopping to SuperU in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue but we didn't linger.

Katrin had baked a cheesecake, which we enjoyed with a coffee, then we all went off to Lagne. Some walked there and rode back by car; others swapped. Anton (disabled), Wuki the dog (disabled) and I (old and lame) rode both ways. We were disappointed that the only two cafes/restaurants were shut! On a bank holiday? Don't they want to make money?

    Photos of Lagne [Paul Whitelock]

So, we settled for an ice-cream back at the campsite.

After an early dinner - fresh white asparagus again for us - we all did our own things. Katrin and Gero walked to the nearby aqueduct to see the sunset, while the rest of us studied (Madita), played games (Rita and Anton) or worked on the free internet only available outside reception (me). Lotta read and Wuki slept.

    Three generations of Rita's family [Photo: PW]    

Tuesday

Avignon today. The place I really wanted to see. I'll probably be disappointed, because what we've seen so far has been "out of this world".

    Le Pont d'Avignon and the city wall [Photos: Paul Whitelock]

Well, I wasn't at all disappointed. The bridge is so interesting and the city is a walled city, like Avila (Spain), Carcassonne (France), Chester (England), Salamanca and Segovia (Spain), Trier (Germany) and York (England).

Le Palais des Papes (The Popes' Palace) was stunning. I didn't know previously that seven Popes had  chosen Avignon as their "home".

This was during the period when Avignon belonged to the Italians and Rome was a bit of a dodgy place to be.

    Le Palais des Papes [Photos: Exterior (Wikipedia); others (Paul Whitelock)]    

______________________________________________________________________________________________

STOP PRESS: We learned that Pope Francis passed away on Easter Monday morning aged 88, which added a certain poignancy to our visit.

______________________________________________________________________________________________

Avignon is very touristy, of course, and expensive, but we had a great day.

We had a super lunch at a pizzeria in one of the pretty, traffic-free squares. Quiche Lorraine, three sorts of pizza and a vegetarian lasagne, washed down with cokes and a quality beer from the region. 180€ with tip for seven people. Not a bad price and the food was delicieux.

After a stressful drive back to the campsite, which coincided with rush hour, we were glad to "put our feet up". Rita started packing, while I attended to a few things on the internet. Then it was something to eat, a shower and early to bed (we need to leave the campsite at 2.15 am in order to get to Marseille airport for our early flight back home to Malaga).

Lunch at Le Milano in Avignon [Photo: PW]    

Wednesday

We got to the airport in good time, topped up with fuel, parked at the Europcar depot and posted the key in their box (no staff were there at this ungodly hour). Trekked to Terminal 2, went through security and in no time at all we were on board and in the air. 

This time, the international Ryanair cabin crew included two Portuguese men and a statuesque African lady from Cote d'Ivoire.

We landed 25 minutes early and headed off to Leroy Merlin the DIY store to pick up something we needed which we can't get in Ronda, and before we knew it we were home after a scrummy breakfast at Casa Diego near Teba.

Our voyage en France had been a delightful experience, but now we were back in Spain to the reality of everyday life and the shattering news that a young Spanish friend from Montejaque, Cayetano Postigo, 30, had suffered a cycling accident and died the day before and was to be interred today.

But that's another story for another day ..... (although there are a couple of links below).

Useful links:

Bienvenidos a la Provenza - france.fr

Pope Francis live updates: Vatican may extend hours to pay respects due to turnout - ABC News

La Terraza Mark II – Interview with Borja Tornay - www.secretserrania.com

Hallan el cadáver de un ciclista en una zona de difícil acceso en Montejaque | Diario Sur

Vive la France! - I've missed you! - Eye On Spain

© The Spanish Fly (Paul Whitelock)

Photos and images:

Amazon, Joom, Palais des Papes, Paul Whitelock, Wikipedia, YouTube

Acknowledgements:

ABC News, Diario Sur, france.fr, Wikipedia

Tags:

Achilles tendon, Amazon, ABC News, art galleries, Asterix the Gaul, Avignon is very touristy, Avila, back in Spain, banter auf Deutsch, BBQ, basic quality at luxury prices, booking agent Auto Europe, brittle WiFi, Carcassonne, car hire at Marseille airport, Casa Diego, Cayetano Postigo, cheesecake, Chester, climbing, cost of accommodation, Cote d'Ivoire, cycling accident, Diario Sur, double the price we had originally agreed to and paid for in advance, drinks and restaurant food more than double, Easter Monday morning, England, Europcar upgraded us, Eye on Spain, france.fr, Francophile, high prices, institutionalised theft, Joom, Katrin, Lagne, Le Beaux, Le Palais des Papes, Leroy Merlin, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, local rose, Lotta, luxury at basic prices, Montejaque, months in plaster, my Spanish driving licence is not usable for the three months prior to its expiry date, no pensioner discounts, Omma, Palais des Papes, Paul Whitelock, physiotherapy, pizza, pizzeria, playing squash, Pope Francis passed away, Portuguese, quiche Lorraine, reality of everyday life, relaxed meal, rush hour, Ryanair cabin crew, south of France, poor internet access, Salamanca, scrummy breakfast, Segovia, seven Popes, shattering news, statuesque African lady, supermarket prices, SuperU, tea and typing, Tetley, they'll be hearing from my lawyer, Teba, tickets to museums,Trier, vegetarian lasagne, voyage en France, walk to the source of the river, walled city, wheelchair, white asparagus, Wikipedia, York,  young Spanish friend, YouTube 

I am currently in France for the first time in 15 years, and it's great to be back in the land of frogs legs, snails and smelly Gauloises!

By the way, I like cuisses de grenouilles, escargots and, before I saw the light and gave up smoking, Gauloises.

[Wikipedia]    

La France "et moi"

I started learning French at Grammar School in 1961 aged 11.

I subsequently did French for A-Level and got a B, in the days when a B was the second-highest grade (no A* back then).

Although I applied to study French and German at university, I was persuaded at interview for my first-choice, Salford University, a pioneer of "modern" modern languages degrees, to start Spanish ab initio instead of French. That decision changed my life. How? See the link below.

After graduation with a BSc Hons. in German and Spanish, and a subsequent post-graduate teaching certificate (PGCE), I became a secondary school languages teacher.

Salford University original building [Wikipedia]    

In my first and third schools I taught Spanish, German and French and in my second school, a Roman Catholic Grammar School, mainly Spanish with a bit of German.  

As head of modern languages I led several school trips to France, namely to Rouen, the Loire Valley and Paris.

Later, as a LEA advisor/inspector for MFL, I organised several projects through the European Union Socrates programme, eg work experience for sixth formers in Chalon-sur-Saone and a study visit for young workers to Brussels.

Chalon-sur-Saone [Wikipedia]    

My family and France

As a family we travelled frequently to French-speaking countries (my then wife, Jeryl, was a graduate in French and Russian).

I recall Charente-Maritime; Lyon; Valence and La Voulte (Ardeche); Belgium; Luxembourg and the island of Corsica in the Mediterranean.

Post-retirement

After early retirement I spent three-summers-running with my pal Alan, also early retired, to work on the garden of his French father-in-law in Metz (Moselle).

By this time my spoken French had apparently become very good, or so I was told, by Alan, who ought to know, being bi-lingual himself.

Metz [Photo: Lonely Planet]    

After meeting German Rita in Ronda, and "shacking up" with her in Montejaque (Malaga), where she'd been living as a divorcee for a couple of years, we passed through France twice on our way from Germany to Spain, but by then my fluency had deserted me after five years of no contact with the country next-door.

By the way, "I made on honest woman" of Rita when we got married in 2010, in Maulbronn Monastery in Germany.

Kloster Maulbronn [Photo: Minube]    

Back to the present day

Now, after another 15 years speaking French is a struggle (French and Spanish are not that similar, even though they are both Romance languages, ie derived from the Latin spoken by Roman legionnaires as they advanced on several European countries to establish the Roman Empire - long since defunct, of course, like all empires.

Putin's Russia must be due to collapse any day! (We wish!)

Map of the Roman Empire [Wikipedia]    

Speakers of Spanish, Portuguese, Italian and Romanian can communicate rather more easily.

***

This is my third day back in France after that 15 year break. I am in Provence in the Marseilles, Avignon area on the Cote d'Azure, where we are "glamping" with Rita's daughter and family.

They like to camp. We don't!

So we are staying in a wooden lodge, with beds, a kitchen and ensuite toilette.

Our pitch [Photo: Paul Whitelock]    

So far I've enjoyed being back in France, in that expensive, grubby, secular (Good Friday is not even a Bank Holiday!) and increasingly anarchic country, that is full of 'orrible "Frogs".

But I'm loving it!

© The Spanish Fly

Photos and images:

Camping La Couteliere, Lonely Planet, Minube, Paul Whitelock, The Spanish Fly, Trip Advisor, Wikipedia

Sources:

Camping La Couteliere, Paul Whitelock, The Spanish Fly, Wikipedia

Tags:

ab initio, Alan, anarchic country, Ardeche, Avignon, BSc Hons. in German and Spanish, Bank Holiday, beds, Belgium, bi-lingual, Brussels, Camping La Couteliere, Chalon-sur-Saone, Charente-Maritime, Corsica, Cote d'Azure, cuisses de grenouilles, early retired, early retirement, enjoyed being back in France, ensuite toilette, escargots, European Union Socrates programme, expensive, France, French, French father-in-law, French-speaking countries, frogs legs, Gauloises, German, German Rita, Germany, "glamping", Good Friday, graduate in French and Russian, graduation, grubby, head of modern languages, "I made on honest woman", I'm loving it,  Italian, Jeryl, kitchen, Kloster Maulbronn, Latin, La Voulte, LEA advisor/inspector for MFL, Loire Valley, Lonely Planet, Luxembourg, Lyon, Malaga, Map of the Roman Empire, Marseilles, Maulbronn Monastery, Mediterranean, Metz, Minube, modern languages degree, Montejaque, Moselle, 'orrible "Frogs", Paris, Paul Whitelock, Portuguese, PGCE, post-graduate teaching certificate, Provence, Putin's Russia, Rita's daughter and family, Roman Catholic Grammar School, Romance language, Roman Empire, Romanian, Roman legionnaires, Ronda, Rouen, Salford University, school trips, secondary school languages teacher, secular, snails, Spain, Spanish, speaking French is a struggle, spoken French, study visit, The Spanish Fly, Trip Advisor, Valence, Wikipedia, wooden lodge, work experience for sixth formers, work on the garden

In May 2025, I achieve the grand old age of 75, five years longer than my allotted biblical span of three score years and ten. 

So, before it's too late - younger men than me are dying all around - this year we have decided to SKI, ie spend the kids' inheritance, by travelling all over.

[Cartoon courtesy of eBay]    

The missus is only one year behind me in age, so given our recent medical history - Rita very nearly succumbed to the Coronavirus, and I have been diagnosed as a Type 2 diabetic - we have decided to "get our skates on", before it's too late.

Backstory

Whilst I travelled to four of the seven continents in my younger days and Rita has travelled widely with previous husbands, as a couple we have only been to Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, the Netherlands, a few other parts of Spain, Switzerland and the UK [Chester, Cornwall, Devon, London, Portugal, Scotland (Edinburgh and Isle of Arran), Somerset, East Sussex, North and South Wales, and York].

We have not been outside of Europe together.

[Map of Europe courtesy of Wikipedia]    

So, we already have some plans in place for the early part of the year, as well as others on our "bucket list".
 

Plans already made

UK - I'm off to London (Stratford) and Hastings (East Sussex) for an early celebration of my 75th and for my son's 38th birthday with my kids and grandkids.

I suspect my ex-wife Jeryl will also be there to congratulate me and our son!

Dinner on Thursday with my daughter Amy somewhere in the East End and time with her two lads, Felix and Jude, on Friday. Then, on Saturday, we're all headed off on the train to the coast to stay with my son Tom, wife Su and their two boys, Wilbur and Buckley.

[Cartoon courtesy of Tagvenue]    

On Sunday a big family lunch in a nice pub in Hastings Old Town to celebrate my 75th, Tom's 38th and Father's Day.

France - We're going somewhere new for both of us - to the Avignon, Marseille, Cote d'Azure area.

We're meeting up with Rita's oldest Katrin, husband Gero and children Anton, Madita and Lotta.

The Schroeders are avid campers, and we are joining them on a camping there, although we'll be staying in a house on the campsite (no more lying on the ground for us!)

Le Pont d' Avignon [Travel Real France]    

Germany - We're both off to Talheim (Baden-Wuerttemberg) for the confirmation of grand-daughter Lotta (qv).

Talheim is where Rita and I "jumped the broom" at the Registry office, followed two days later by a Church wedding in the Abbey at Maulbronn (also B-W). Rita lived in Maulbronn in a previous life.

After the confirmation is over I shall fly straight back to Spain, but Rita will head up north to Oesterholz (North Rhine Westphalia) where she is from for a family reunion before flying home.

Maulbronn Abbey [Photo: Stadt Maulbronn]    

Bucket list

This is a list, in alphabetical order, of the places on our "bucket list". Clearly we won't get to them all in 2025, but they will remain on the list for 2026, 2027, and beyond .....

Canada - I fancy Vancouver (British Columbia) just above the border with the USA.

Cuba (just me) - I should have gone to Cuba 30 years ago when the main stars of the band, the Buena Vista Social Club, were still alive. Still fancy going, however.

Czech Republic (Prague) - I spent a weekend there 20 years ago with Jeryl and Tom.

Coincidentally, my daughter Amy was also there on an orchestra tour from her Oxford college (Queen's). She is an oboist. They played in several churches in the city.

Great beers in the Czech Republic, including Budvar.

[Photo of Prague courtesy of Viator]    

Denmark - I was in Copenhagen with Jeryl some 40 years ago. Rita has never been even though the land of the Danes shares a land border with her home country, Germany.

Galicia - The only one of the 17 autonomous regions of Spain that I have never visited. That's definitely "on" for 2025. Cheap flight to Santiago de Compostela from Malaga and then a dear hire car. Still cheaper for us to fly-drive than to go by road in our own car.

Hungary (Budapest) - Neither of us has been to Hungary. A long weekend in the capital is a possibility for this year.

Morocco - A "must" for this year. It's quite close, yet on another continent, Africa.

[Photo of Budapest courtesy of El Mundo]    

New Zealand - Not this year. Katrin and family are thinking seriously about emigrating there. If that happens we shall visit them for sure.

STOP PRESS: The emigration is "off the agenda". The obstacles are too many and too complicated. Anton is severely disabled and they are not confident that they would have the medical and social support they enjoy in Germany.

As a result, it's also off our bucket list. Too far to go just for the scenery.

Perú - The only South American country on my list. Going there would take me to my fifth continent.

Why Perú? Machu Pichu, of course, home of the extinct Inca civilisation. 

My daughter Amy visited the summer after she graduated, and although she got altitude sickness, she was blown away by the experience.

[Machu Pichu photo courtesy of Wikipedia]    

Why now, I hear you ask?

My English cousin Alison lives in Perú. She is married to a Peruvian diplomat Jesús and is a freelance translator.

Their son, Philip, is also a member of the Peruvian diplomatic corps.

So, if I'm quick, I'll have a contact there. Jesús retires soon and he and Alison are planning to move to Spain to live, so I need to go in 2026, probably.

Philip, Alison and Jesús [Family photo]    

Poland - Would be new for both of us. Warsaw sounds good. Also Gdansk (formerly German enclave Danzig).

***

© The Spanish Fly

Photos and images:

El Mundo, Facebook, Stadt Maulbronn, Tagvenue, Travel Real France, Viator, Wikipedia
 

Tags:

2025, 2026, 2027, 75, Alison Light, Amy, Anton, Austria, Avignon, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Belgium, "bucket list", Buckley, Budapest, Budvar, camping, Canada, Chester, Church wedding, confirmation, Copenhagen, Cornwall, Coronavirus, Cote d'Azure, Cuba, Danzig, Denmark, Devon, East End, East Sussex, El Mundo, Europe, ex-wife Jeryl, Facebook, family lunch, family reunion, Felix, France, Galicia, Gdansk, Germany, Gero, Hastings, Hastings Old Town, Hungary, Inca, Jesús Ponce, Jude, "jumped the broom", Katrin, Le Pont d' Avignon, London, Lotta, Machu Pichu, Madita, Malaga, Marseille, May 2025, Maulbronn, Maulbronn Abbey, medical history, Morocco, Netherlands, New Zealand, North and South Wales, North Rhine Westphalia, Oesterholz, Philip Ponce Light, Prague, Poland, Portugal, Rita, Schroeder, Santiago de Compostela, Scotland, Somerset, Spain, spend the kids' inheritance, SKI, Stadt Maulbronn, Stratford, Su, Switzerland, Tagvenue, Talheim, three score years and ten, Tom, Travel Real France, Type 2 diabetic, UK, Vancouver, Viator, Wikipedia, Wilbur, York

"Forget the Hotspots"

Yzabelle Bostyn, a journalist working for The Olive Press, has recently written about five less well-known places away from the popular big cities, like Barcelona, Granada, Madrid, Málaga, Sevilla, and Valencia.

Her choices are good ‘uns. I’ve been to all five. Here’s what I think:

[Image courtesy of Google]    

Reus (Catalunya)

Close to Salou, this is Gaudí territory.

I spent a week there with my first wife Jeryl and our two young kids, Amy and Tom, some 37 years ago. We stayed in an apartment in Salou, famously gay, even back then.

It was wet, I remember, but during dry spells we enjoyed the beach, and had fun exploring the rocky coastline and the restaurants which offered a huge variety of fresh fish

We liked it, although we never returned – Spain has so many other delights.

    Salou beach [Catalunya Turisme]

Jaén (Andalucía)

After my divorce from Jeryl, I was with a new lady, Maude. She had fallen in love with Spain after I took her there, to such an extent that she bought a little house in Ronda (Malaga) on her second day in the town.

But, I digress .....

After some time together living in North Wales we embarked on a little parador trip through southern Spain. We started at the emblematic parador in the grounds of the Alhambra in Granada - Wow!

After that we were at the paradores in Cordoba and Cazorla, before fetching up in Jaén . The parador here is an old castle, Santa Catalina, crowning the city and offering visitors a spectacular view of the mountains of the Sierra Morena and Sierra Mágina.

The Parador de Jaén stands out for its façade of huge stone walls and impressive interior vaults. We certainly enjoyed our stay there.

    Jaen parador with town in behind [20 Minutos]

Down in the town centre, Jaén was less impressive, just a busy, working city.  A few years later I was to discover two nearby cities, Baeza and ubeda, which are much more impressive.

Oviedo (Asturias)

I was here for a European Study Visit (Socrates) while the UK was still a member of the European Union.

The topic was to be “Teaching a modern foreign language from early ages”. By law in Spain, children have to study a foreign language (English) from age three.

As the Senior Adviser for MFL in Sefton (Merseyside) this was of great interest to me.

    Oviedo [Spain.info]

I was joined on the course by educators from across the European Union.

It was a fantastic week, during which we visited schools, sat in on lessons, had de-briefing meetings, went on trips into the countryside, drank lots of cider and were right royally entertained by our hosts. I even enjoyed a brief “liaison” with Paula, a German headteacher.

I liked Oviedo and also Gijón, on the coast.

La Gomera (Canary Islands)

Back in the early 2000s, Jeryl and I were on holiday in Tenerife (where were the kids?) and on one day we caught the ferry from Playa de Los Ingleses to La Gomera, a tiny island in the Canary Islands archipelago.

Back then, the island had no airport, no nothing really. But we had a great day, exploring on foot and swimming off the beach near the ferry port.

Now La Gomera has an airport, so I suspect it’s more touristy.

    Town beach on La Gomera [Expedia.es]

Jerez (Andalucía)

I’ve been to Jerez de la Frontera, home of sherry, a few times.

We used to use the airport at Jerez until Ryanair pulled out and there were no more flights suitable for us.

However, the first time I went to Jerez was with Jeryl during our 2000 silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucía.

We did a guided visit of the González Byass bodega, which was incredibly interesting. It gave me a love for fino, a dry sherry.

    Jerez de la Frontera [rumbo]

On subsequent visits with second wife Rita, we nearly always managed to not find our way out of the city by car. The road signs are non-existent, and Google Maps doesn’t have a clue.

I’ve been with Bianca, Rita’s niece; with Julia, Laura and Jakob, relatives from Germany (we visited the Jerez Riding School); with my daughter Amy, husband Carlo (now ex-husband) and their son Felix; and with a group of friends on a coach trip from Montejaque.

Jerez old town is very atmospheric with loads of great bars and restaurants. The sights are also fascinating and the Riding School was amazing.

I like Jerez; Rita does not!

Conclusion

Yzabelle's five choices are fine, although I could offer some others which would be strong contenders for inclusion.

These would include Baeza (Andalucia), Cádiz (Andalucia), Cuenca (Castilla-La Mancha), Girona (Catalunya), Salamanca (Castilla-León), Santander (Cantabria), Toledo (Castilla-La Mancha), Ubeda (Andalucia) and Hondarribia (Basque country). 

Hondarribia [A un Clic de la Aventura]

I suggest Yzabelle Bostyn has not visited all the places she mentions.

For example, Oviedo has no beaches, as it is inland in the mountains!

Jaén is not the best "non-hotspot" in Jaén province; nearby Baeza and Úbeda are far superior in every respect.

She doesn't do Jerez justice either - the town is about sherry and horses, not flamenco.

Q.E.D.

© The Spanish Fly

Links:

MY SPECIAL PLACES IN SPAIN - Help me, Ronda – features Oviedo

My Top 25 Places To Visit In Andalucía – mentions Nerja

Nerja - a little gem

Photos:

A un clic de la Aventura, Catalunya Turisme, Expedia.es, Google, rumbo, Spain.info, 

Acknowledgements:

The Olive Press, Wikipedia, www.help-me-ronda.com, Yzabelle Bostyn

Tags:

2000 silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucía, Amy, Andalucía, Asturias, A un clic de la Aventura, Barcelona, Bianca, bodega, Canary Islands, Canary Islands archipelago, Catalunya, Catalunya Turisme, Cider, coach trip, dry sherry, English, European Study Visit, European Union, Expedia.es, Felix, ferry, fino, Forget the Hotspots, Gaudí, German headteacher, Germany, Gijón, Gonzalez Byass, Google, Google Maps, Granada, group of friends, home of sherry, husband Carlo, Jakob, Julia, Jerez, Jerez de la Frontera, Jerez old town, Jerez Riding School, Jeryl, La Gomera, “liaison”, Madrid, Málaga, Merseyside, Montejaque, my daughter Amy, no airport, on holiday in Tenerife, Oviedo, Paula, Playa de Los Ingleses, Reus, Rita, Rita’s niece, road signs are non-existent, rumbo, Ryanair, Salou, Sefton, Senior Adviser for MFL, Sevilla, Socrates, Spain.info, study a foreign language from age three, “Teaching a modern foreign language from early ages”, The Olive Press, The Spanish Fly, Tom, UK, Valencia, Yzabelle Bostyn

Some fifteen towns and villages in Málaga province were represented at Fitur 2025 in Madrid last month. I know them all. They range "from the sublime to the ridiculous".

FITUR is an important trade fair held annually in Madrid.

Tourism bodies from around the world attend and set up “stands” to promote their “wares”.

Fitur 2025 [Photo: Diario de Sevilla]    

Málaga province has a major presence. In January 2025 15 places were represented under the umbrella heading of "Andalusian Crush".  

This is Part II of "Promoting Málaga". Click here for Part I.

Málaga City

Málaga was ignored for years as tourists landed at Málaga Airport and headed west to the tourist resorts of the Costa del Sol.

Yet, in the last ten years or so, the sixth largest city in Spain has had a "makeover".

Málaga by night [Spain.info]

A revitalised port with shops and restaurants, more than a dozen museums and art galleries, fantastic Casco Antiguo (old part), a restored Roman amphitheatre, great restaurants and promotion of its splendid beaches and other attractions.

We love it and go whenever we can and stay over for at least one night.

Aerial view of the Port of Málaga [Wikipedia]   

Links:

MALAGA CITY - Help me, Ronda

Magnificent, under-rated Málaga - Eye on Spain

Mini-break in Malaga - Help me, Ronda

Museums in Málaga City - Help me, Ronda

Coín

This busy town is close to Málaga airport, so has a significant number of foreign residents. It’s the sort of place you end up in when you get lost in that area. Not my "cup of tea" at all.

Marbella

I had never liked Marbella – too big, too busy, too dirty, too loud and too full of “guiris”.

Then when the local “fuzz” fined me incorrectly for a parking offence, I vowed never to set foot in Marbella again!

But, for health reasons, we have had to go a couple of times a week recently.

Rita has had two eye operations on our private health care plan and where is their hospital? In Marbella!

Hospital Ochoa overlooks the Mediterranean [FVV Ochoa]

While these ops were taking place I had time to kill, so I did some exploring on foot, and I have to confess I’ve grown to like the place. 

Especially the Casco Antiguo – the Old Town. 

It’s small but traffic-free with good shops, bars, cafes and restaurants.

Marbella Old Town [Marbella Living]    

Link:

The Spanish Police are beginning to get on my nerves! - Help me, Ronda

Mijas

Like Casares, there are two settlements: Mijas Pueblo in the mountains and La Cala de Mijas on the coast. We like both for different reasons.

    Mijas Pueblo [Photo: Spain.info]                                                  La Cala de Mijas [Photo: MalagaCar.com]

Mijas Pueblo is very “foreign” but delightful with superb views, and great hospitality venues and shops.

La Cala is situated on a long and wide sandy beach. Although it’s busy and touristy and there’s nowhere to park, the chiringuitos that form a backdrop to the beach are varied and relatively affordable.

In the little “centro”, there are all kinds of shops, ranging from pricey to “cheap and nasty”.

La Cala is our “go-to” place if we are nearby. We’ve  even spent the odd night there in Airbnbs or booking.com rentals.

Ronda

What can I write about the Ciudad Soñada, the City of Dreams? 

It’s where both Rita, from Germany, and I, from the UK, chose to live independently of one another (we met in Ronda, in fact).

As a Spanish-speaker, who fell in love with Spain aged 20, it was always my dream to live here someday.

It took nearly 40 years to achieve that goal, but in that time I travelled to every region, bar one (Galicia), and Ronda was the best place I found.

Aerial view of Ronda [Photo: Andalucia.org]   

As somewhere to live, Cádiz (Cádiz), Cuenca (Castilla-La Mancha), Frigiliana (Málaga), Fuenterrabía/Hondarribia (Guipúzkoa), Guadalupe (Extremadura), Nerja (Málaga), Salamanca (Castilla-León), San Sebastián (Guipúzkoa) and Santander (Cantabria) also "tickled my fancy", but Ronda always had the edge.

    Cádiz City [Photo: Hertz]                          Cuenca [Photo: Wikipedia]                Frigiliana [Photo: Malaga Hoy]

    Hondarribia [Photo: Wikipedia]               Guadalupe [Photo: Spain.info]                       Nerja [Photo: La sexta]

    Salamanca [El Confidencial]         San Sebastian [Wikipedia]                                            Santander [DTI]

Links:

My Top 10 places in Ronda - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Ronda Romántica: Falling in love in the 'city of dreams' - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Top 10 places to visit around the Serranía de Ronda and beyond

Ronda - City of Dreams - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Torre del Mar

Torre del Mar is the coastal town paired with Vélez-Málaga (qv).

I don't know it well but the beaches are spotless and so are the public toilets, of which there are many. The huge car park behind the beach is free.

Torre has a lot going for it. Good shops, normal ones as well as tourist traps.

The superb beach in Torre del Mar [Wikipedia]  

Torremolinos

The very name Torremolinos is enough to give you the shivers.

Eric Idle's classic monologue about Torremolinos for Monty Python's Flying Circus did nothing to enhance its reputation as a tacky and cheap holiday resort for lower-class Brits.

Torremolinos [Wikipedia]    

Yet, nowadays Torremolinos is a very different "kettle of fish". The eastern end was always undeveloped, yet the beach there is amazing - deep and sandy, and loads of chiringuitos.

Even the centre of town and the Casco Antiguo have shifted up-market. Out with the lager-louts and jerry-built hotels and in with the more discerning tourist.

We discovered its charms, together with next-door Guadalmar, when we were looking for a hotel near the airport if we had an early morning flight.

Hotel Royal Costa in Torremolinos is 20 minutes from the airport and costs around 50€ for a double room with breakfast or a packed breakfast if you have a really early flight out of Malaga.

5€ for a taxi to the airport. Amazing!

Hotel Royal Costa [Photo: Trip Advisor]    

Nowadays, if I'm picking someone up who is arriving late afternoon/early evening, I go early.

I do a bit of shopping in stores not available in Ronda (eg Bauhaus, Carrefour, Conforama, IKEA, Leroy Merlin) and then have a couple of hours on the beach, either in Guadalmar or Torremolinos, including a snack, some sunbathing and a swim.

The beach at Guadalmar [Wikipedia]    

© The Spanish Fly

Further Links:

Mini-break in Malaga - Help me, Ronda

The best and worst of the Western Costa del Sol - Eye on Spain

Photos:

DTI, El Confidencial, Facebook, Hertz, MalagaCar.com, Malaga Hoy, Spain.info, Trip Advisor, Wikipedia

Tags:

"Andalusian Crush", Bauhaus, Cádiz, Cádiz City, Cantabria, Carrefour, Casco Antiguo, chiringuito, City of Dreams, Ciudad Soñada, Conforama, Cuenca, Castilla-La Mancha, Castilla-León, DTI, El Confidencial, Eye on Spain, Facebook, Frigiliana, Fuenterrabía, Guadalmar, Guadalupe, Guipúzkoa, guiri, Hertz, Hondarribia, IKEA, La Cala, La sexta, Leroy Merlin, Málaga, MalagaCar.com, Málaga Hoy, Marbella, Mijas Pueblo, Nerja, "Promoting Málaga", Ronda, Salamanca, San Sebastian, Santander, Spain.info, The Spanish Fly, Torre del Mar, Torremolinos, Trip Advisor, Wikipedia

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Some fifteen towns and villages in Málaga province were represented at Fitur 2025 in Madrid last month. I know them all. They range from the sublime to the ridiculous.

FITUR is an important trade fair held annually in Madrid. Tourism bodies from around the world attend and set up “stands” to promote their “wares”.

    Fitur 2025 [Photo: Diputacion de Malaga]

Málaga province had a major presence. In January 2025 15 towns and villages were represented under the umbrella heading "Andalusian Crush".

Fitur 2025 [Photo: Diario de Sevilla]    

Malaga presented some 15 towns and villages at Fitur 2025.

Part I takes a look at the first tranche (below), while Part II, coming soon, will "run a slide-rule" over the remainder.

Click here for Part II.

"Promoting Malaga" - Part I

Málaga’s top spots

I wouldn’t really quibble with any of the places promoted, although one or two are conspicuous by their absence, eg Cómpeta, Frigiliana, Torrox and Málaga City itself, although the first three come under the Axarquia (qv).

Frigiliana, Malaga [Photo: Malaga Hoy]    

Antequera

This important Roman settlement sits at the crossroads of southern Málaga. Sort of in the middle of nowhere, it rises majestically above the surrounding area.

The Alcázar atop the Casco Antiguo is a delight. A working town Antequera is popular with tourists but not over-run. It is home to important archaeological remains, and boasts a delightful modern parador within walking distance of the town.

Roman Antequera [Photo: 20Minutos]    

Axarquía

This is a largely rural area to the north-east of Málaga City. It includes the following towns which all featured at FITUR 2025:

Nerja

Cards on the table! I love Nerja. I shouldn’t, as it’s full of foreigners, both residents  and tourists, but I can overlook them.

I’ve been to Nerja many times and with many different people: two wives, a girlfriend, family and friends – not together, I must stress.

I love the coast, the caves of Nerja, the old town and the ambiente.

Nerja, Malaga [Photo: La Sexta]    

Link:

NERJA - A LITTLE GEM - Help me, Ronda

Rincón de la Victoria

This is a surprisingly large coastal town and very Spanish. I don’t know it particularly well as it’s somewhat shabby and neglected. But as in all Spanish towns the vibe is good.

Vélez-Málaga

I’ve been to Vélez two or three times.

My English colleague, John, who became my buddy, bought a house here after he left teaching (sound familiar?).

I visited a few times. Vélez is not particularly attractive, yet I understood why John and his wife Maggie chose it. Really down-to-earth, and right up John’s street.

Vélez-Málaga [Photo: KAYAK]    

A brilliant luso-hispanist (Portuguese and Spanish) John left teaching and set up his own translation agency in the aftermath of  a cycling accident, which left him physically disabled.

John sadly died of cancer aged just 59 in 2010.

Link:

OUR DAY OUT - on the Costa del Sol - Help me, Ronda

Benalmádena

The first time I went to Benalmádena, to attend my Welsh cousin’s birthday booze-up (Dai was touring there with his male voice choir from Neath, South Wales), we couldn’t find the Welsh bar where the event was being held. I asked several passers-by but none of them were Spanish. We eventually found the bar and had a nice time.

We were not impressed with this large British-infested tourist resort.

Welsh pub, Benalmadena [Facebook]    

I’ve since passed through, and occasionally stopped, and it seems to be "on the up”. The council is spending some money to upgrade and move the town up-market.

Costa del Sol Occidental

The western Costa del Sol, ie to the west of San Pedro de Alcántara, is much less built up than the eastern bit,

This stretch includes Casares and Estepona. After that we’re in Cádiz province, so beyond the scope of this article:

Casares

There are two settlements: Casares up in the mountains, some 30 minutes from the coast, and Casares Playa.

I’ve been to Casares Pueblo several times. It’s a beautiful, if hilly, place. Again, two wives and a girlfriend, have accompanied me there and it’s always good.

Casares Playa only came onto my radar when friends Nick and Julia – he English, she Hungarian – bought a holiday home there.

It’s front-line and on a peaceful and private urbanizacion (gated community).

Casares Pueblo [Photo: Spain.info]    

We’ve visited Nick and Julia a few times and even got to stay for a few nights free of charge as “payment” for a service rendered.

Link:

Away Days on the Costa del Sol - Help me, Ronda

Estepona

This is a bit of a jewel in the crown. An older established resort it has a fabulous main beach, a delightful fishing harbour and other smaller coves. Its Old Part is to die for and it has a classier feel than, say, Benalmadena, Fuengirola or Torremolinos.

Only my two wives have been here with me. Jeryl, the kids and I first came here on a day trip from Ronda, after we had bought an apartment in the City of Dreams in 2001. We loved it!

Estepona main beach [Andalucia Rustica]

Many years later, I have been a couple of times with Rita and she doesn’t like it at all! I still do, however, and can happily while away time there on my own.

Link:

ESTEPONA - Help me, Ronda

© The Spanish Fly

Links:

Bars and Restaurants at or near railway stations in the Serrania de Ronda - Help me, Ronda

GAUCIN - El Balcon de la Serrania - Help me, Ronda

GENALGUACIL - El Pueblo Museo - Help me, Ronda

MALAGA CITY - Help me, Ronda

My Top 10 places to Visit around the Serranía de Ronda and Beyond - Help me, Ronda

SERRANIA DE RONDA - Help me, Ronda

Photos:

Andalucia Rustica, Diario de Sevilla, Diputacion de Malaga, Facebook, KAYAK, La Sexta, Malaga Hoy, Spain.info, Wikipedia

Tags:

"Andalusian Crush", Andalucia Rustica, Axarquia, Benalmadena, Casares, Casares Playa, Casares Pueblo, City of Dreams, Costa del Sol, Diario de Sevilla, Diputacion de Malaga, English, Estepona, Eye on Spain, Facebook, Fitur 2025, Fuengirola, Help me Ronda, Hungarian, Jeryl, KAYAK, La Sexta, Malaga Hoy, Nick and Julia, "Promoting Malaga", Rita, Ronda, San Pedro de Alcántara, Secret Serrania, Spain.info, The Spanish Fly, Torremolinos, Wikipedia

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