The Spanish Fly - Travels in Spain

In the wake of the devastating floods in eastern and southern Spain, two English-language newspapers published in Spain have managed to get it wrong this last week.

[Photo courtesy of 20 Minutos]

Both SUR in English and The Olive Press featured supplements promoting tourism in Andalucía and the Guadalhorce Valley, just as la DANA was wreaking havoc in those very areas.

The Olive Press

First to The Olive Press, which is published fortnightly. Their latest edition, printed on 30 October, and published the following day, included a supplement on the Guadalhorce Valley. And very good it was too, with articles about the villages which border this important river, walking routes in the surrounding hills and advertisements for a range of products and services.

    [Image courtesy of Facebook]

Unfortunately, as the printing presses were whirring, the villages of Álora, Cártama, Pizarra and Alhaurín de la Torre were suffering massive flooding causing damage to houses, shops, businesses and crops, as well as parts of the local infrastructure. A British man died in his flooded house in Alhaurín de la Torre.

Clearly, it has not been as catastrophic as in the Valencia region, Castilla-La Mancha and Murcia, where over 200 have died and many are missing.

At the weekend la DANA moved north and flooded parts of Cataluña, including Barcelona, Castellón and further south Torrevieja.

SUR in English

Published on Thursday of last week, 31 October, the paper included a 70-page insert promoting the whole of Andalucía, including places that suffered flooding, such as Málaga, several coastal resorts, Cádiz, Jerez de la Frontera and Sevilla.

To spare their blushes, the weekly paper, published in Marbella, had prepared the supplement to take to FITUR, the World Tourism Event held in London this past weekend. Andalucía had a stall and were there to promote this area of southern Spain.

    [Image courtesy of SUR in English]

Endnote

Look, it was unfortunate that the worst weather event in more than 100 years should occur now.

The information in both supplements remains valid, and the stricken areas will recover.

I recommend Andalucía highly. That's why I live here!

© The Spanish Fly

Links:

CADIZ -¡Que maravilla! - Help me, Ronda

In Love with SEVILLA - at last! - Help me, Ronda

Spanish authorities face massive backlash from people in flood-affected areas

The King and Queen, and the prime minister attacked by flood victims in Valencia

Valencia flood victims to receive €250m in financial aid to help recover from disaster

Acknowledgements:

20 Minutos

Facebook

SUR in English

The Olive Press

www.help-me-ronda.com

Tags:

20 Minutos, Alhaurín de la Torre, Álora, Andalucía, Barcelona, Cádiz, Cártama, Castellón, Castilla-La Mancha, Cataluña, DANA, Facebook, FITUR, Guadalhorce, Jerez de la Frontera, London, Málaga, Marbella, Murcia, Paul Whitelock, Pizarra, Sevilla, SUR in English, The Olive Press, The Spanish Fly, Torrevieja, Valencia, World Tourism Event, www.help-me-ronda.com

By The Spanish Fly

The British Foreign Office is urging all British people living in Spain to ensure they have exchanged their old residency cards for the TIE card (Tarjeta de Identidad Extranjero) as soon as possible, warning that problems lie ahead for those who don’t.

Preamble

It is essential UK residents here in Spain have a , as many still don’t. TIE stands for Tarjeta de Identidad de Extranjero.

I changed mine some while ago and it’s invaluable. It looks just like a Spanish ID card and is a valid form of identification. I no longer carry my British passport around. It’s at home in a drawer in my study.

Being a Spanish resident of some 15 years standing, I am not subject to the 90-day rule, so I am not required to have my passport stamped when I leave or enter Spain, and the TIE is proof that that is the case. When this procedure was first introduced I found I had to explain it all to the nice border police at Malaga Airport, but now they’re used to it and just wave you through.

According to the British Embassy in Madrid, in June of 2024, 200,000 British residents in Spain still had not exchanged their old green ID cards or paper certificates for the new biometric TIE identity cards.

With the new EES system about to come into force next year, travelling anywhere out of the Schengen area, even briefly, British people without a TIE could suffer big problems trying to return.

What is the EES?

EES (Entry/Exit System) is a Schengen zone system run by the EU in order to make the external Schengen border more secure.

It is an IT system operated at all Schengen borders, and it will apply to all non-EU nationals who do not need a visa to travel. It does not change any of the rules on immigration; it simply makes their enforcement more rigorous.

Certain EU member states have previously applied more discretion, but now they will be obliged to be much stricter, especially with regards to the 90-day rule. The date for its implementation is early 2025.

EES will replace passport stamping with an electronic record.

This will consist of biometric data, such as a biometric photograph, which will create an electronic file for you, and then that data sits in the EES system for 3 years.

The file will record the exact time when a person has entered the Schengen zone and activate an automated calendar ticking away in the background, which can be consulted online.

Is EES different from ETIAS?

ETIAS is an acronym for the European Travel Information and Authorisation System. It was created in September 2018 and is designed to improve the security of EU member states within the Schengen area. It captures data on travellers that visit the 26 countries within the Schengen Area without the need for a visa.

It’s important to note that ETIAS is not a visa, it’s a visa waiver, similar to an ESTA required for entering the USA. 

ETIAS is similar and will apply to UK nationals. This will come in at some point after EES. Therefore, any website currently offering to get you an ETIAS is a fraud, so be warned.

Why should it matter to you?

If you are registered as living in Spain, you are exempt from the EES system, but only if you are a holder of a TIE card, which already contains your biometric data.

Without a TIE, you will be put into the EES system. That could be a problem because the automatic calculator will start ticking for you and the system will think you have outstayed your welcome in Spain and is likely to cause you problems.

No one knows yet what those problems will be, but in a worst-case scenario, it could mean a Schengen travel ban and a court case to get back into the EU again.

For this reason, if you have not got a TIE yet, PLEASE APPLY without further delay. Go to the Foreigners Desk (EXTRANJERIA) at your nearest Policia Nacional office, if you live in a town or city, or to the Guardia Civil, if you live in a village.

Better, get a move on.

How to get a TIE?

You can apply for a TIE card (or exchange a green card) at your local Policia Nacional/Guardia Civil or immigration office in Spain.

You will need the following documents to apply:

• completed application form
• proof of payment (at a bank)
• proof of address
• visa
• three passport sized photos
• your NIE number.

Please note that children must also be registered and obtain their own TIE.

© The Spanish Fly

Useful links:

HOW TO …..apply for a replacement TIE

www.immigrationspain.es

https://sede.administracionespublicas.gob.es

Acknowledgements:

Adam Woodward

Euro Weekly News

Paul Whitelock

www.immigrationspain.es

Images:

Ambassade de France en Espagne

European Union

LegalTeam

Passport Info

Tags:

90-day rule, Adam Woodward, Ambassade de France en Espagne, automated calendar, biometric, British Embassy in Madrid, British Foreign Office, electronic record, EES, Entry/Exit System, ETIAS, European Travel Information and Authorisation System, European Union, Euro Weekly News, Guardia Civil, HOW TO …..apply for a replacement TIE, https://sede.administracionespublicas.gob.es, immigration office, LegalTeam, NIE, Passport Info, passport stamping, Paul Whitelock, Policia Nacional, TIE, Tarjeta de Identidad Extranjero, The Spanish Fly, www.immigrationspain.es

As we put our clocks and watches back in the early hours of Sunday morning, so the new flights to and from Malaga Costa del Sol Airport get underway.

AENA, the airport authority, has announced a record number of flights, with more routes than ever before. Malaga is the third busiest airport in Spain after Madrid (Barajas), and Barcelona (El Prat de Llobregat).

Photo courtesy of Solvilla Real Estate

Winter schedule

Malaga will connect to 128 airports in 30 countries with direct flights this winter.

Some 42 airlines have scheduled a total of almost 10 million seats to fly to and from Malaga Airport during the low season which starts on Sunday 27 October.

This will add five new destinations compared to 2023.

Airport operator AENA has indicated that all the signs for the winter are positive and highlights that 42 airlines will connect Malaga Airport with 128 destinations in 113 cities in more than 30 countries.

These airlines are reinforcing their presence by offering 9.7 million seats to fly to and from the Costa del Sol. This figure represents an increase of 8.2%. The volume of flights scheduled by the airlines for this period will also grow by 7.2% to 54,800 landings and take-offs.

Photo courtesy of Malaga Car Hire

The airlines are concentrating most of their efforts on Europe and Spain, although they are still committed to growth outside these areas.

In Europe, the airlines have programmed 10% more capacity, bringing together 7.5 million seats out of the 9.7 million total. In fact, of the 207 total routes that Malaga Airport will have this winter, 172 are links with European airports, according to AENA.

Markets

In terms of markets for movements between Spanish cities, the airlines have increased their offer by 2.1% more flights.  

Outside Spanish borders, there are strong increases in air capacity with Germany, with 11.4% more seats and 10.6% more operations; Italy, with 30.8% more seats and 26.7% more movements; and the Netherlands, with 12.6% more seats and 8.3% more operations.

Other countries with more flights and seats include Austria, Belgium, Norway, and Poland.

UK in the lead

The United Kingdom is unbeatable and remains the market most connected to Malaga, accounting for 44 of the 207 total routes and concentrating 1.9 million seats and 10,000 operations, representing an increase of 7.3 and 8.4%, respectively.

There will be direct flights to and from Belfast, Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, Cardiff, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Exeter, Glasgow, Leeds, Liverpool, London (all airports), Manchester, Newcastle, and Newquay.

Other countries

There are also lots of flights to France and Germany, which is good for The Spanish Fly, as he and his German missus visit Germany often.

Next Easter we are flying to Marseille for a family holiday near Avignon.

© The Spanish Fly

Acknowledgements:

AENA

Pilar Martínez

SUR in English

Tags:

AENA, Austria, Barcelona, Belfast, Belgium, Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, Cardiff, East Midlands, Edinburgh, El Prat de Llobregat, Exeter, Germany, Glasgow, Italy, Leeds, Liverpool, London (all airports), Madrid, Malaga, Manchester, Netherlands, Newcastle, Newquay, Norway

From sometime next year, 2025, UK passport holders will require an ETIAS to enter most European countries

What is ETIAS?

ETIAS is an acronym for the European Travel Information and Authorisation System. It was created in September 2018 and is designed to improve the security of EU member states within the Schengen area. It captures data on travellers that visit the 26 countries within the Schengen Area without the need for a visa.

It’s important to note that ETIAS is not a visa, it’s a visa waiver, similar to an ESTA required for entering the USA. 

Do British passport holders need an ETIAS to travel to Europe from the UK?

Currently, British citizens do not need a visa to enter EU countries and the ETIAS is not yet operational. The EU has announced that the ETIAS start date will be sometime in mid-2025, although the launch date has yet to be announced.

For the first six months, the visa waiver will not be strictly enforced. Applications will be open and travellers who complete this process will likely get through customs more quickly once they land.

However, in this grace period, anyone who meets the eligibility criteria will still be allowed to enter the Schengen Zone. As official dates haven’t been given yet, it’s thought that the hard line where people will be rejected for this will be sometime around the start of 2026.

Once the date is confirmed, UK travellers will need approval in order to enter any country in the Schengen Area, and three others.

These countries are (in alphabetical order): Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czechia, Denmark, Estonia, Germany, Greece, Finland, France, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Latvia, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Sweden, Spain, Slovenia, Slovakia and Switzerland.

How do you apply?

British citizens can apply for their ETIAS online and expect a response within minutes. You must apply for it at least 96 hours before boarding transport to your destination (whether by land, air or sea).

To apply, you will need a valid passport with at least three months left before expiry. You’ll also need to provide some personal details as well as information about the countries you’re intending to visit.

The ETIAS is valid for three years and covers all countries in the Schengen Area plus Cyprus, Iceland and Romania. 

If you’re a dual citizen that holds a UK passport and an EU passport, you won’t need an ETIAS assuming you use your EU passport to enter and exit your Schengen destination.

Applicants with a criminal record will be able to apply.

How much is an ETIAS?

An ETIAS costs €7, unless you are under 18 or over 70 years of age, in which case it’s free. Those travellers will still need to obtain an ETIAS to travel, however.

How long can you travel in the EU on ETIAS?

While the ETIAS is valid for three years, the same rules for travelling to the EU remain in place. British citizens travelling as tourists can stay in an EU country for no longer than 90 days in every 180.

Note that you will need to apply for a specific type of visa if you want to work or study in the EU.

Do you need to apply for each country?

No, your ETIAS will be valid in all the countries outlined above. You only need to purchase one document for your trip.

However, on application, you will need to confirm which country you’ll be entering first.

Do you need travel insurance when travelling to the EU?

Travel insurance when travelling to the EU is not mandatory. However, it is recommended that you have cover. As well as making sure you’ll be compensated for travel issues, loss of belongings and other frequent holiday issues, you’ll have healthcare cover.

Consider applying for the EHIC or GHIC before you depart. This can help you receive discounted healthcare while in the EU.

This information was correct at time of publication on 16 September 2024. Visit etias.com for the latest developments.

©  The Spanish Fly

Acknowledgements:

ConfLegal

Echeverria Abogados

Facebook

UK ETA

Western Union

www.etias.com

www.skyscanner.com

Tags:

Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czechia, Denmark, Echeverria Abogados, Estonia, EHIC, ETIAS, European Travel Information and Authorisation System, EU, European Union, Facebook, GHIC, Germany, Greece, Finland, France, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Latvia, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Schengen, Sweden, Spain, Slovenia, Slovakia and Switzerland, UK passport holder, Western Union, www.etias.com, www.skyscanner.com

"Surfer Girl" was another big hit for the Beach Boys - see also "Surfin' Safari". Madita, who is visiting us from Germany after finishing her "Mittlere Reife" (16-plus exams), was just that yesterday on the Costa de la Luz - a true "surfer girl".

Madita with her "Omma" Rita

A two-hour introductory surfing lesson was our gift to our 16-year-old granddaughter for doing so well in her exams, so off we went to El Palmar near Vejer de la Frontera. The sea was a bit rougher than the surfing teachers like for beginners, yet Madita made great progress and managed to stand up on her board several times, which is apparently unusual for first-timers. Hence my name for Madita - "Surfer Girl".

Rita helps Madita into her wetsuit

Her teacher, a long-haired surfing dude called Victor, was very attentive, full of good teaching techniques and with a positive and encouraging manner.

Despite being exhausted, Madita really enjoyed the experience and is already talking about coming back to "surf" again next year.

After a relaxing normal swim and a brief sunbathe, we packed up our beach kit - sunbeds, sun umbrella, towels and cold drinks - and headed back to the car.

Madita with teacher Victor

Now it was time for a late lunch / early dinner, before the two-and-a-half-hour journey back to Ronda. We headed for San Francisco, a beach-side fish restaurant that we knew from previous visits to El Palmar.

Madita is a committed vegetarian, by the way, ie no meat or fish.

We were given a warm welcome by our waiter Carlos, who pointed out dishes that could be adapted into vegetarian ones. We ordered drinks and then our food. Rita opted for vegetarian too, in order to support her grand-daughter.

They shared crema de salmorejo Cordobés con taquitos de jamón ibérico, with the ham pieces removed. Salmorejo is a thicker version of gazpacho. For mains they went for alcachofas de la huerta de Conil con salsa romesco y papada ibérica with the papadas (cheeks) removed. Madita also ordered a portion of french fries (chips, to a German, are what we British call crisps).

alcachofas de la huerta de Conil con salsa romesco y papada ibérica

I eschewed a starter and went for calamar de potera a la plancha con vinagreta de cebollino y pistachos o relleno a la antigua (a whole squid stuffed with goodies and grilled and accompanied by a long thin batter tube filled with vegetables). The best calamar I've ever had in my 50 plus years of visiting / living in Spain.

calamar de potera a la plancha con vinagreta de cebollino y pistachos o relleno a la antigua

The bill came to just over 100 euros - not bad for the quality we had enjoyed and the number of drinks (seven).

We headed home - Rita's turn to drive - with just one stop for a toilet break. We were back for 9.20 pm and a refreshing swim, followed by showers to get rid of the sand.

After that we shared our pictures and films of the day and sent a selection off to Madita's mum and dad.

© The Spanish Fly

Acknowledgements:

Alcarasurf SL

Cadiz a la carta

Paul Whitelock

Rita Whitelock

Links:

Bing Vídeos - "Surfer Girl"

Casa Francisco El de Siempre – Restaurante en el Palmar

Features III - costa de la luz - COSTA DE LA LUZ - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

The Spanish Fly - Travels in Spain (eyeonspain.com)

surfin safari beach boys - Búsqueda (bing.com)

Tags:

alcachofa, Arcos de la Frontera, Beach Boys, Cadiz a la carta, calamar, El Palmar, escuela de surf, gazpacho, Germany, La Troupe, Madita, Medina Sidonia, Mittlere Reife, Paul Whitelock, Rita, Rita Whitelock, Ronda, salmorejo, surf, "Surfer Girl", "Surfin' Safari", Vejer de la Frontera

Next weekend one of our German grand-daughters is coming to visit us here in Andalucia.

Madita, 16, the oldest daughter of Rita's oldest daughter Katrin, is travelling on her own from South Germany to spend a holiday with us. This is her "reward" from her parents for doing so well in her "mittlere Reife", the German equivalent of GCSEs/NVQs.

Our congratulatory gift to Madita, who is named after a Swedish children's author Astrid Lindgren character, is to be a surfing lesson, something Madita has never tried but is keen to do.

Off to the Costa de la Luz

So, off we went to Spain's Atlantic coast, northwest of Gibraltar, to do a recce.

Travelling west from Ronda, we soon crossed the provincial border from Malaga into Cadiz, before reaching Arcos de la Frontera*, a super pueblo blanco. Here we turned south towards Vejer de la Frontera* and El Palmar, one of the surfing hubs of this coast which runs from Tarifa up to Cadiz and beyond.

With a stop en route outside Arcos for a much needed coffee, we continued past Medina Sidonia* and Vejer, passing through fields of sunflowers, olive groves, solar panel "plantations" and forests of wind turbines until we reached our destination, the beach at El Palmar.

El Palmar, the beach of Vejer

It seemed relatively "busy" for a Monday, yet we were assured but our lunchtime waiter tha it was "quiet" compared to the Saturday and Sunday just gone.

We're getting ahead of ourselves. Before lunch we booked a two-hour beginner's lesson at the first surf school we tried.

Alex, a madrileño long "andalucizado", impressed us. He talked himself up as a trainer/teacher and "guaranteed" a great experience for Madita or our money back!

The cost of this two-hour session in a group of no more than six would be 30 euros. According to Rita, who had done lots of research over the weekend, this was more than reasonable.

So, we booked for next Tuesday, anticipating that the waves would not be too dangerous for beginners.

Lunch

Having achieved what we'd set out to do, we went for something to eat and drink. We chose "La Azotea" on the seafront, where we enjoyed a couple of beers each and shared two tapas: taco de maíz crujiente con atún rojo y guacamole, followed by saquitos brick con queso cremoso, puerros y langostinos. They were both delicious.

The bill was a whopping 50 euros, but, what the hell - it was a day-out on the coast and "La Azotea" was a very nice place!

For more information, please click here:

La Azotea EL Palmar – La Azotea (laazoteasevilla.com)

After lunch

We decided to head towards Tarifa. Valdevaqueros, to be precise, to check out the water sport scene there. Quite by accident we ended up at Dani Garcia's place. Dani is an acclaimed chef with stars who has restaurants in Marbella and now here. Apparently he pops in once a month. No doubt to collect his huge profits!

It was full of beautiful young people "on the pull", older hopefuls and us two. We were the oldest people there by a kilometre! The other clients must have been idle rich with more money than sense. I had a beer and Rita a coffee. That cost us 9 euros. Needless to say I didn't leave a tip!                                                                                                               

Photo: Europe Press

We headed off further south to a beach where, according to the internet, there was a German-speaking surf school. Although we were more than happy with what we'd booked in El Palmar, we wanted to check out kite-sailing. No sign of the school. We rang the number. They don't speak German, but they hung up on us anyway. We crossed them off our Christmas Card list.

For information, they are called Kite Fun Tarifa. Very unprofessional. I wouldn't touch them with a proverbial barge-pole.

Tarifa and Home

Tarifa is the southernmost point in Spain right where the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Tarifa is as far from Tangiers in Morocco as Dover is from Calais, just 15 kilometres.

As a resut Tarifa has a very African feel. I like it.

We spent ages trying to find somewhere to park, by which time we had lost interest in hanging around there, so after a brief stroll around the Old Part, we headed off home via Algeciras, San Roque, Jimena de la Frontera and Gaucin. It took ages to get home, but we had enjoyed a nice, if tiring, day.

In order to see how Madita got on when she took her beginners' class, click here:

"Surfer Girl" (eyeonspain.com)

©  The Spanish Fly

Links:

The BEST Tarifa Tours and Things to Do in 2024 - FREE Cancellation | GetYourGuide

Features III - costa de la luz - COSTA DE LA LUZ - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES, CAÑOS DE MECA, TRAFALGAR and BARBATE - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Acknowledgements (Photos):

Amazon

Costa de Cadiz

Europa Press

Guia de Cadiz

La Azotea

LinkedIn

Trip Advisor

Tags:

Arcos de la Frontera, Barbate, Cadiz, Caños de Meca, El Palmar, Europe Press, Gibraltar, Guia de Cadiz, La Azotea, Medina Sidonia, saquitos brick con queso cremoso puerros y langostinos, surf school, taco de maíz crujiente con atún rojo y guacamole, Trafalgar, Vejer de la Frontera, Zahara de los Atunes

Talk about biting the hand that feeds you!

What is The Spanish Fly talking about?

Large parts of Spain depend on tourism. The costas of the Mediterranean, the Costa de la Luz from Tarifa to Cádiz, Galicia, La Costa Cantábrica and el País Vasco. Away from the beaches there is rural tourism in areas of natural beauty such as inland Andalucía, Aragón, Castilla-León, Castilla-La Mancha, Extremadura.

And what about city tourism?

That’s where the main problem lies.

Anti-tourism demos

The local inhabitants of several big cities have turned against tourists. From Barcelona to Valencia, from Málaga to Cádiz. Why?

Because local workers feel they have been priced out of the rental market. The availability/supply of rental properties has shrunk since Airbnb and other rental companies came on the scene.

Property owners can make much more from tourists than from a long-term rental contract.

Barcelona has already outlawed Airbnb and other cities are thinking of doing the same.

The Spanish Islands

The anti-tourism wave on the Spanish Islands, ie the Balearics and the Canary Islands, is somewhat different.

Fed up with horrendous drunkenness, sh**ging on the streets and generally despicable behaviour, resorts like Palma Nova in Mallorca are trying to clean up their act.

The situation is similar in the more downmarket resorts of Tenerife in the Canaries. The locals have simply had enough of the debauchery.

Demonstrations

It has now got to the point where there are frequent demos against tourists, with hostile banners much in evidence.

At one airport, there were reports of activists trying to discourage northern Europeans from flying to Spain.

“Go to Greece, or Croatia,” they say.

What I think

Spain’s biggest money-earner is tourism. Hardly surprising, the second largest country in Europe is amazing.

From Andalucía, the white villages and the beaches; to Galicia and its “rias” (fjords); the Basque Country, with its spectacular scenery and its fabulous cuisine; to Aragón; Huesca; Cataluña; Madrid; País Valenciano; Extremadura; and the Costa de la Luz.

Spain is a country which offers incredible variety. “España es diferente” was the tourism slogan for decades.

So, what to do?

Clearly the tawdry resorts on the islands need to be cleaned up and the drunken riff-raff from the UK (by far the worst culprits), Germany, Finland, the Netherlands, et al discouraged from coming.

But what about the cities on the mainland?

Without tourists and the million or so retired northern Europeans, many places would simply die.

Take Málaga, for example. Since its make-over of the last dozen years, the city is full of foreigners, both residents and tourists.

For these, mainly northern Europeans, Spain is much cheaper than their countries of origin, so they are out and about all day long. They love the tapas, the bars and restaurants, the menús del día and the "life-on-the-streets" ambience.  

If the powers-that-be “banned” foreigners, many of these establishments would be forced to close.

The Spanish in Málaga can’t afford to patronise bars and restaurants morning, noon and night. They have to work for a living.

If the foreigners, guiris, do not come, many places will be forced to close. Then where would we stand?

Javier Recío argued this very point in a telling article entitled ¿Que sería del centro de Málaga sin los guiris?  which was published in Diario Sur on 9 June.

His view is that Málaga and other cities need to find a way to keep the tourists coming, yet provide affordable accommodation for Spanish workers.

© The Curmudgeon

Links:

Diario Sur

Guardian

Telegraph

Acknowledgements:

Diario Sur, Guardian, Javier Recío, Telegraph

Photos:

Daily Express, El País, Paul Whitelock, Sky News

Tags:

Airbnb, Andalucía, Aragón, atmosphere, Barcelona, bars, Basque Country, beaches, Cádiz, Castilla-La Mancha, Castilla-León, Cataluña, city tourism, Costa Cantábrica, Costa de la Luz, Daily Express, El Pais, demos against tourists, Diario Sur, drunken riff-raff, “España es diferente”, Extremadura, Finland, fjords, Galicia, Germany, Guardian, guiri, Huesca, Javier Recío, Madrid, Málaga, Mediterranean, menús del día, Netherlands, País Valenciano, País Vasco, Paul Whitelock, ¿Que sería del centro de Málaga sin los guiris?, restaurants, retired northern Europeans, rías, rural tourism, Sky News, Spanish Fly, tapas, Tarifa, Telegraph, tourists, Valencia, white villages

Way back in September 2011 Luisa and Simone of www.vayanda.com inspired me to write an article listing my top 10 favourite places in Andalucía.

Now, more than a dozen years later, I have clocked up nearly 16 years of residency in the largest of Spain’s autonomous regions, and the picture has changed significantly.

In those 12 years of living here full time I have travelled a fair bit and got to discover many more fascinating places.

I would not leave out the 10 places I listed back in 2011, so I have revised my article and it’s now my top 25.

Of course, one can always quibble about such lists, as they are, by definition, personal, but they are always the starting point for a healthy discussion.
 

My Top 10 in 2011

In fact, it was a top 13 with the big three cities of Córdoba, Granada and Sevilla getting a brief mention. The other 10, in alphabetical order, were, and still are:

Bolonia (Cádiz) - Without doubt the best beach in Andalucía, almost totally unspoilt, with the spectacular restored Roman city of Baelo Claudio as a backdrop.

BOLONIA and BAELO CLAUDIA - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Cádiz City - The oldest city in Europe is much under-rated. In the process of receiving a make-over, this is a port town to rival Liverpool or Hamburg. With its cámara oscura, fabulous fish market, atmospheric Old Town, its cathedral and fine beaches it takes some beating.

CADIZ -¡Que maravilla! - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Cazorla (Jaén) - A place to get away from it all. Mile upon square mile of virgin forest and little hint of civilisation. Boasts probably the remotest Parador hotel in the whole of Spain!

El Chorro (Málaga) - This series of linked reservoirs is stunning, with ample opportunities for sightseeing and bathing in the clear waters. It is also the starting point for the stunning Caminito del Rey.

Grazalema (Cádiz) - The wettest place in Spain, the scenery is spectacular, and the town is very pretty with oodles of ambiente.

A wander near Ronda: Spain’s empty quarter | Andalucia holidays | The Guardian

Jimena de la Frontera (Cádiz) - A stunning pueblo blanco perched on a hill with narrow cobbled streets and flowered balconies.

Diary of a paper boy in Andalucia - Olive Press News Spain (theolivepress.es)

Montejaque (Málaga) - This delightful pueblo blanco was my home for two happy years. With a permanent population of just under 1000 and 14 bars, the scenery and walks round about are second to none.

A Stroll through Montejaque - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Ronda (Málaga) - La Ciudad del Tajo, also known as La Ciudad Soñada, is where I now live after four decades of travelling throughout Spain. Ronda's location perched atop a stunning 100 metre gorge, with mountains all around, is breathtaking. With a splendid Old Town, as well as modern amenities, it meets the needs of residents and tourists alike.

Ronda, el choque ideal (the perfect place to meet) - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Tarifa (Cádiz) - The crossroads of Europe and Africa and the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. A fascinating pot-pourri of cultures at the southernmost tip of Europe.

Úbeda - Baeza (Jaén) - These two neighbouring towns boast stunning honey-coloured medieval buildings. To wander the streets is like going back in time.

My 2011 article provoked some comments:

Rosi Reed wrote in September 2011:

“I've been to 7 of these 10 and would agree with every one on the list.....the problem is that there's probably 10 more places that are every bit as worthwhile to visit. I'm not sure about Bolonia as the best beach though, we had clients there who have had problems with the local feral dogs. Can I post a vote for El Palmar for best beach? Can I also add to the list - Sevilla (and can't believe it was left off) and in Sevilla I would say best thing to do.....rent a bike for the day and ride around the network of bike paths through the centre and down by the river. Can I also add a vote for the place we sell more holidays in than any other - Jerez. It's the only town I know that smells of what has made it famous!”

Alison sent this message in June 2012:

“Oh, Vejer de la Frontera, amazing history, a Unesco world heritage site and the views from the old town towards the Bay of Trafalgar are amazing.”

The Spanish Fly responded:

“Hi, Alison and Rosi. Thank you for your comments. If I were to re-do my list now, I would certainly include Vejer, El Palmar, Jerez and Sevilla, all of which I have discovered and fallen in love with since my original article.
Maybe I should re-do it as my top 25 ... I would also add Cómpeta, Córdoba, Setenil de las Bodegas, Caños de Meca, Almuñecar, Frigiliana, Nerja and Torrox Pueblo.”

My Top 25 in 2024

After more than a dozen years of exploring other parts of the region that has been my home for more than 15 years, I’ve discovered other places I love.

Almuñecar (Granada)

I first went to Almuñecar and the Costa Tropical in 2012 on a press “freebie”. I liked the whole area back then. We revisited a couple of weeks ago and I loved it even more. Two great beaches, plenty of chiringuitos and restaurants and a charming casco antiguo.

Tropical fruits in Andalucía - Mmmm! - Olive Press News Spain (theolivepress.es)

Antequera (Málaga)

My first wife Jeryl and I called in to the Parador in Antequera on our silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucía in 2000. We managed to wangle a swim in the pool, even though we weren’t staying there – they even provided us with towels! We went to look at the old part of town up the hill and loved it.

I took girlfriend Maude there also – she liked it too.

Finally, I traded in the amigos points I had accrued from the Parador network (I’ve stayed at or visited over 50 to date) for a two-night stay for me and Rita in 2023. Rita loved Antequera also.

10 lugares que ver en Antequera imprescindibles - Viajeros Callejeros

Arcos de la Frontera

One of my favourite of the Cádiz pueblos blancos. My first wife Jeryl and I first came across it in 2000 on our silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucia. We stayed in the Parador, still one of our favourites. After a subsequent visit the following year, we were even considering buying a pied-à-terre in the town, before settling on Ronda.

As amigos de paradores we got a free walking tour of some of the stunning Andalusian patios in the casco antiguo – fabulous.

I've been back to Arcos many times, for breakfast in the Parador - the best ever - for lunch, and to show family visitors.

“FRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATER” (eyeonspain.com)

Caños de Meca (Cádiz)

I’ve been here a couple of times with both of my wives (not together, I hasten to add!). Jeryl and I liked the coast around here, especially the naturist beach just outside the resort. Rita is less keen to get her kit off, but we enjoyed a nice meal and a walk to nearby Cape Trafalgar.

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES, CAÑOS DE MECA, TRAFALGAR and BARBATE - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Cómpeta (Málaga)

My good friend John, a fellow hispanist, told me about Cómpeta many years ago, when he was thinking of buying a place there. In the end he plumped for Velez-Málaga and spent many happy years visiting his "place in the sun" with his wife Maggie and kids. Although he was by this time disabled as the result of a freak cycling accident, John still enjoyed spending time in Andalucía.

I visited Cómpeta for the first time in 2023. What a treat! Although many Brits live here, it didn't mar our experience. The steep, narrow streets and the evident civic pride combined to make it a charming place to spend time.

Córdoba City

This was always my favourite of the big three Andalusian cities. Small and charming. The Mezquita is simply stunning and the Alcázar too. I went there with my first wife Jeryl and my son Tom a long time ago and loved it. I returned some years later with a girlfriend, Maude, after my divorce, and still liked it. I haven’t made it yet with The Meter Maid, but it’s on the list.

ANDALUCIA’s 3 C’s: Cádiz, Córdoba, Ciudad Soñada - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Frigiliana (Málaga)

I first went to Frigiliana with Bertie, my dog, while Rita was recovering from Covid-19 in Germany. We stayed in a former ice-cream parlour in the Old Part. I fell in love with Frigiliana. So much so, that I took Rita there when she returned from Germany, to celebrate my 71^st birthday. We stayed in the same ice-cream parlour, Casa Moranga. We’ve also visited with friends Ian and Christine from Derbyshire, and with my daughter Amy and grandsons Felix and Jude.

BIRTHDAY OUTING TO FRIGILIANA - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Genalguacil (Málaga)

I’ve been to Genalguacil three times, twice for the annual Encuentros de Arte. Quite remote and inaccessible, it’s worth the effort to get there. The village is decorated with sculptures and other artwork which emerges from this annual competition. The village council invites a small group of artists from all over the world to come and live in the village and produce a piece of original artwork. All their expenses are covered, and each receives a bursary of 1000 euros. In exchange the artists donate their creations to the village.

GENALGUACIL - El Pueblo Museo - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Granada City

I have been to Granada many times and visited the Alhambra on each occasion. It is marvellous, if somewhat shabby. The Jewish quarter (Albaicín) is also lovely, as is the cathedral and the Old Town. Tapas are free.

Granada - Wikipedia

Málaga City 

I’ve always liked Málaga. It has much more to it than most people think. From The Picasso Museum and his Casa Natal (birth house), the Roman amphitheatre, a fascinating pedestrianised town centre, superb beaches, the refurbished industrial port, Gibralfaro mountain and so much more.

I first visited the city when we used to stay a night in the Parador de Gibralfaro at the beginning and end of trips to the area when we were still living in the UK.

Nowadays, we go to stay in the town centre for a night or two if I have a Costa Press Club “do” in the city.

MALAGA CITY - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Nerja (Málaga)

Jeryl, Tom and I visited Nerja way back in time and liked it. Rita and I now go fairly regularly to stay with friends Ian and Christine who holiday there every year. Although Nerja is very touristy, it doesn’t bother us, as the beaches are lovely and the chiringuitos too. In town, the bars and restaurants include a free tapa in the price of your drink.

I also took Amy, Felix and Jude there for two days in April this year and they liked it also.

Nerja - a little gem (eyeonspain.com)

Setenil de las Bodegas (Cádiz)

Setenil is one of the prettiest and most spectacular of the pueblos blancos around here. With its spectacular topology and charming cave-houses, mostly shops, bars and restaurants these days, it’s knockout. Only 20 minutes from home, we have visited often. The last time we went, earlier this year, there were too many tourists for my liking, but it’s still a must-see place.

SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Sevilla City

I think I’ve been to Sevilla six times. The first five times I hated it – too hot, and nowhere to park. The last visit in October 2023, Rita and I went by bus for half price (we’re senior citizens and have a tarjeta sesentaycinco*). We stayed for two nights in the casco antiguo in the four-star Hotel Murillo for 50€ a night including breakfast.

We did the cathedral, the largest in Europe, the Giralda Tower, and the    and we ate some great food. And the temperature was just right.

In Love with SEVILLA - at last! - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Torrox Pueblo (Málaga)

Torrox Costa has a certain charm, with a lovely beach and great chiringuitos. However, it is very much a German enclave. Don't get me wrong, I like Germans - my wife Rita is German - but I don't need them wall-to-wall in a Spanish beach resort.

Torrox Pueblo, a few kilometres inland, is a different kettle of fish entirely and is very charming.

Vejer de la Frontera (Cádiz)

Vejer is stunning. Perched upon a hill, it has the lot! Stunning views all around, a fabulous Old Part, great restaurants and a real ale brewery. We enjoy strolling around, soaking up the atmosphere. A famous car ad was filmed here, which sent its popularity through the roof.

Near to the fabulous beach resort of El Palmar, and not far from the resorts south of Cádiz.

Zahara de la Sierra (Cádiz)

Overlooking the embalse (reservoir), Zahara is delightful. The top of the town is where the action is with a street full of bars and souvenir shops, a hotel and the church. Down below there are restaurants overlooking the reservoir, where there is also a beach where you can hire pedaloes and kite surfers.

Readers' Comments:

DarNico wrote on 16 June 2024:

"And slightly off the beaten track, like Ronda fifty years ago with half price houses now, Arcos de la Frontera."

The Spanish Fly responded on 17 June as follows:

"Hi DarNico, Arcos de la Frontera was in my original list, but somehow disappeared during the final edit. I don't know how that happened, since Arcos remains one of my favourite towns. My first wife and I even considered buying there, before finally settling on Ronda. I love the Parador in Arcos. We stayed there a couple of times back in the day. I must add Arcos to my list!"

and has since done so (see above.)

©  The Spanish Fly

Other Links:

Amigos de Paradores | Paradores

“WHEN I’M 65…”: HOW TO ….. get a tarjetasesentaycinco (eyeonspain.com)

Photos:

ABC de Sevilla

Andalucia-web

Costa Press Club

Diario de Sevilla

Explore La Tierra

FaceBook

Genalguacil Pueblo Museo

Karl Smallman

Lonely Planet

Paul Whitelock

Renfe

Ronda Today

Trip Advisor

Turismo de Cádiz

Visitanddo

Wikipedia

YouTube

Sources:

Wikipedia

www.eyeonspain.com

www.help-me-ronda.com

www.secretserrania.com

Tags:

Albaicín, Alhambra, Almuñecar, amigos de paradores, Andalucía, Antequera, Arcos de la Frontera, Baeza, Bolonia, Cádiz, Cádiz City, cámara oscura, Caminito del Rey, Caños de Meca, Cazorla, Cómpeta, Córdoba, El Chorro, El Palmar, Frigiliana, Genalguacil, Granada, Grazalema, Hamburg, Jaén, Jimena de la Frontera, Sevilla, Baelo Claudio, Liverpool, Málaga, Montejaque, Nerja, parador, Ronda, Setenil de las Bodegas, Sevilla, silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucia, Tarifa, Torrox Pueblo, Úbeda, Vejer de la Frontera, Velez-Malaga, Zahara de la Sierra 

By Pablo de Ronda and The Spanish Fly

The world’s largest and most successful low-cost airline, Ryanair, has been handed a massive fine for illegal charging of its customers. Three other budget carriers, EasyJet, Voltea and Vueling, were also fined.

Ryanair, the Irish airline, has been found guilty by the Spanish government of levying hand luggage charges and other irregularities, and has been handed a fine in excess of 100 million euros. The other airlines involved received lesser penalties.

FACUA, Spain’s consumer affairs watchdog, has been lobbying for the government to clamp down on these charges for six years. Their perseverance has finally paid off, although the airlines in question are likely to appeal.

Until now the highest such fine imposed was by the Junta de Andalucia on mobile phone company Movistar in 2016 for illegally raising their tariffs. That fine was a mere 6.23 million euros, although it was later reduced to 1.53 million on appeal.

For more information visit FACUA’s website at https://facua.org

Tags:

consumer affairs watchdog, easyJet, FACUA, Junta de Andalucia, Movistar, Pablo de Ronda, Ryanair, Spanish Fly, Spanish government, Voltea, Vueling

Montejaque is a village in the Sierra de Grazalema, part of the Serrania de Ronda. This pretty pueblo blanco of fewer than 1000 inhabitants is just 20 minutes by road from its more famous cousin Ronda, the largest town hereabouts.

An introduction

Montejaque is popular with walkers and birdwatchers from all over the world. Indeed, a small number of foreigners – forty or so – have made the village their permanent home. A similar number own properties here and visit when they can from their home countries.

The last time I looked there were homeowners/residents from Austria, Canada, England, France, Germany, Gibraltar. Hungary, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, New Zealand, the Philppines, Poland, Scotland, South Africa, Switzerland, USA, Wales, Zimbabwe.

A Walk on the Wild Side

There are a large number of walks which either start in the village or which are en route from other places.

One of our favourites is just outside the village on the Sevilla Road. Called the Cañada Real de Los Alcorconales it is a protected footpath through private land. The route is largely shaded by cork oaks and other trees. There is a huge lake, a disused bandstand and a huge range of flora and fauna. It is silent apart from birdsong and the breeze rustling the leaves of the trees. It’s marvellous.

My Montejaque Story

I “discovered” Montejaque in August 2000, when I stumbled upon it with my wife Jeryl during our silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucia. We liked Ronda and Montejaque and by the following year owned an apartment in Ronda.

Two years later, early retired and with little to do, I/we bought a do-er upper in Ronda. Over the next couple of years, I rewired the house, repaired a collapsed floor, fixed the roof, re-designed the kitchen and built a large private terrace at the rear.

                                                                                                   Plaza de la Constitucion, Montejaque

                                                                                                                                            (Photo: Karl Smallman)

***

We were regular visitors to our two Ronda bolt-holes, which we also rented out to tourists.

We got to know Montejaque pretty well during that time, as we were continually attracted to the village. After all, it had been a contender for our investment money back in 2000/2001.

Move forward a few years, a divorce and two unsuitable girlfriends behind me, lightning struck. On a weekend break in Ronda in September 2008, I met and fell in love with the lady who has been my wife now for some 13 years.

A German, resident in Montejaque, the Meter Maid, as I like to call her (you can work out that her name is Rita and that she is lovely!*), was living in Montejaque.

I emigrated at the end of 2008, and we lived in her house in Montejaque for nearly three years. We wed in 2010 and a year later we found the home of our dreams in the countryside just outside Ronda.

Rita kept her Montejaque house which we used as a holiday rental.

In 2020 I sold my apartment in Ronda and invested in an old village house in Montejaque, which, with a handful of local casual workers for the technical and tricky bits, I did up. This is also a rental house, which has recently been put up for sale.

                                                                                                                         For sale: Casa Real

Conclusion

Montejaque is a great village, and we love the time we have spent and do still spend there.

Our Walk on the Wildside is just one of the many great walks in the area. For more information about routes check out:

“Walking in Andalucia” by Guy Hunter-Watts [Cicero Press]

“Walking in the Ronda Mountains” by Tony Bishop and Eva Bratek [Editorial La Serrania]

© The Spanish Fly

Notes:

1. *Beatles’ song “Lovely Rita, Meter Maid” from the album Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band (1967). Listen to it here: Bing Vídeos

2. Casa Real for sale:

PROPERTIES FOR SALE - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

SE VENDE BONITA CASA DE PUEBLO (fincasaronda.com)

Photos:

Ayuntamiento de Montejaque

Karl Smallman

Paul Whitelock

Tags:

Austria, Ayuntamiento de Montejaque, Birdwatchers, Canada, Cañada Real de Los Alcorconales, Cicero Press, Editorial La Serrania, England, Eva Bratek, France, Germany, Guy Hunter-Watts, Ireland, Karl Smallman, Meter Maid, Montejaque, Netherlands, New Zealand, Pablo de Ronda, Paul Whitelock, Poland, pueblo blanco, Rita, Ronda, Scotland, Serrania de Ronda, Sierra de Grazalema, silver wedding anniversary tour, South Africa, Switzerland, Tony Bishop, USA, Wales, walkers, Walking in Andalucia, Walking in the Ronda Mountains