Biking & Baking in Las Alpujarras

Yesterday was warmer than it has been for some time, with clear skies and a sense of Spring in the air. We decided to take a walk up to the Refugio de Poquiera, which sits below Mulhacen and overlooks the valley, at about 2,500m. We started at the Hoya del Portillo but cut down and westward to pick up the path that runs alongside a wide acequia (watercourse) and follows a fairly level contour line. For anyone who just wants an easy highish-level winter walk, this is a good one, always providing the snow has melted. We found it was fairly clear but still pieces of ice over the water in places and in the shadows. The last pull up to the Refugio is 1km of breathless plodding, but the cold beer and sunny terrace at the end makes it worthwhile and the effort is soon forgotten. A 6 hour round trip, going back by a slightly higher route (slushy snow so take waterproof boots).

If you want a pleasant morning's walk (or mountain bike trip) with a good lunch at the end of it, then can I recommend the GR7 between Busquistar and Trevelez?  Just make sure you have the return route planned as it is not  for the faint-hearted (or even the strongish-hearted) going the other way! 

Steve and I did a shuttle run up the valley at about 8am, in glorious sunshine, about +2 degrees, with him leading on the VFR and me behind in the car.  We left the car in Trevelez, tootled back carefully (icy patches under trees) on the motorbike, and then met up with our 2 walking companions, eventually leaving Busquistar at 10.15am or thereabouts.  This walk is 11 km and takes a good 4 hrs, including a 'coffee break' and some wonderful photo opportunities.  It passes through encina woods, over barrancos and close to small clusters of free-range cows with their calves (beware dog owners!).  Sticks are a good idea (though I didn't take mine) and something warm for the shady parts.

The first hour has some steep but short gradients, then you're mostly walking along the contours, but as you near Trevelez you suddenly plunge down (down, down) to the river, and then have quite a haul up the other side.  In reverse, the descent would be a killer climb and  at the moment there's snow and mud too, so tough for bicycles I would imagine.  Going back up and for the last 2 kilometres, you need to follow the GR signs and not stray off the path...We reached T at about 14.30pm and headed straight for La Fragua in the Barrio Medio.  This is a stylish bar/restaurant/hotel and we ate a fabby meal upstairs: good-sized portions of, variously, roast kid, lamb chops, Moorish lamb and oxtail stew.  All delicious (meat falling off bone, lashings of sauce etc), all with fresh vegetables and bread.  The initial tapas of spicy sausages with our much-needed beer was good too.  We shared a wicked ice-cream pudding and had coffees as well.  Total bill including a tip was 75 euros.  Not bad for 4 hungry travellers!  Best of all, we then jumped in the car and headed home!  Next stop: hot shower, fireside, good book....more tea...glass of anis...  What a lovely day!

We've done a bit of adventuring in the last few days...on Sunday four of us went the hard way up to the top of Pena de los Papos, above Trevelez (2,500m roughly).  This involves fairly continuous uphill walking, at first on the GR7, then through pinewoods, over rough scrubland, alongside barrancos and frozen waterfalls and finally up a shaly summit.  It was a bright day fortunately, but with a chilly wind, so we didn't linger long over our lunch.  We saw lots of wild mountain goats, blending perfectly into the landscape and beautiful icicles hanging above steeply-falling streams. Once at the top we had a fabulous panoramic view of the snow-covered Sierras, from Mulhacen to Puerta de la Ragua, and beyond. 

Speaking of which, we also made a trip yesterday to the XVI castle at La Calahorra and the Ragua ski resort (2000m above sea level) ...the descent down to the plain and the sight of the castle below makes this long trip worthwhile.  It's only 3 euros to get a guided tour but it's only open on Wednesdays 10.00-13.00 or 16.00-18.00.  There was snow at the resort (plus cafe and ski hire) but the road was open with care.  Our only mistake was to stop for coffee at the Posada near Bayarcal which wasn't our style at all...but may suit others perfectly.  On the way home we delayed in Juviles to look at the 'Giant's Footsteps' in the rocks below the village...quite intriguing!

Supper that night?  Morcilla sausages, fried eggs, red pepper & onion, cous-cous.  Sorry folks but sometimes it just has to be that simple!!   

Another weekend of festivity...the village held its very intimate Candelaria, when just the locals, their family and a few friends gather to eat paella, morcillas and bacon and dance around the fire.  In fact we also had chicken broth, kebabs, hot chocolate & bunuelos and the local brass band playing the can-can!  The Virgen was carried through the streets at sunset yesterday, we lit small candles and fireworks bounced off the moonlit sky soon afterwards.  Some folk carried on today but we decided to stay indoors and watch a bit of rugby...oh Ireland, what did you do?!

We had spent the day walking above Berchules (again) with some English visitors and were delighted to be back for the fun.  On the walk we encountered frozen trees, icicles, a boar-hunting group and a minor snowstorm.  Steve brought his homemade wood stove and was able to boil up water for tea and coffee (taking great care to keep the flame contained within the stove) and we all had enough warm clothes on to cope with the chill when the sun disappeared.  Winter walking up here means proper gear, especially boots.  I usually leave Steve to bring emergency stuff but I think I will make sure I have my own knife, torch etc in case we get split up.  I did make sure the mobile was fully-charged however, and took spare socks and extra base layers.

I see that I have had almost 26,000 views of my Blog.  Thank you to everyone and I hope you keep on reading it.  The motorbikes have not featured much recently (weather) and even my recipes have fallen away (will try harder), but the Spring may see more outdoor adventures...who knows.