Biking & Baking in Las Alpujarras

Today we took a walk up mainland Spain's highest mountain (3479 m / 11,307 ft) and although Steve has been several times before, it was a first for me, and not too strenuous at all thanks to the summertime bus!  We set off soon after 09.00hrs (already getting hot) and slowly bumped our way up to the Hoya del Portillo, then on to the Mirador de Trevelez, where we were dropped off.  A family group went off to the Refugio de Poquiera, but we and one other chap headed due north and plodded up towards the summit.  At 2,500m it was Hagloff fleece weather, and by the time we reached the summit I was very glad to have it on and the legs of my zip-off trousers! It might have been 30 degrees in Capileira, but only 10 up there and windy!

We met several magnificent wild mountain goats, who calmly gazed at us but did not stir from their resting spots in the sunshine; a mother and her young kid wandered away from us, the youngster staring inquisitively, while yet more junior members lounged on the overhanging rocks, in no way disturbed by the 1000m drop below them.  The views from the top are spectacular: Caballo in the distant west, Veleta and the Laguna de Caldera deliciously close, Alcazaba and the Siete Lagunas less visible - and in the haze our old friend Pena de los Papos!  And all around us the broken, scattered rocks, scree and stones that high altitude weathering brings into being.  Descending through this chaos towards the Laguna was as tiring as climbing up along the ridge.  Next time, however, a separate assault on Veleta will be needed!

We met a Scot on the summit and walked back with him to the Portillo, there being no homeward bus.  Thank goodness for that, as apart from being very likeable, he also had a car parked there and could give us a lift back to Bubion.  My knees were beginning to feel quite threadbare and drinking water was running low, so this was a real boon.  Another message here - always 'camel-up' before your walk (we shared a litre of water on the bus) and take plenty for the descent, at least another litre apiece.  Filling up beforehand meant we didn't need any water at all until we reached the summit.

So here we are, back at home, several cold beers later...Italy has beaten Germany, the tennis tomorrow should be good, I have wild cherries to make into jelly and green walnuts for an alcoholic winter treat - nocino - and about 20 friends are coming on Sunday for tapas and wine...time to go to bed and try to sleep...if we can in this absurd warmth.  But a good day had by all :)

If you're looking for a short break in Las Alpujarras, I've posted our granero annexe for holiday letting in the Eye on Spain rental section.  This is for short-term (max 7 nights) renting and would suit energetic people who want to get out and about.  It's self-catering and we keep a low profile, so you can be sure of a quiet environment (except in fiesta season of course!).  Non-smoking, no pets and no children under 12.  If you're interested, you MUST respond through the holiday rental section of the website, not to this Blog.

Last weekend we visited Antequera for a Honda Motorcycle concentracion, riding over there on the VFR in convoy with our friend Clem on his Yamaha.  It was a long, hot day but we made the most of it, enduring the loud DJ music as best we could (what did you say??), taking a tour around El Turcal (great mountain area for biking) and managing to get home again about midnight.   Then just 2 days ago we repeated part of the trip in a 7.5 ton truck, taking a friend's possessions to Jerez de la Frontera...and back again within 24 hours, to keep the hire costs down.  This actually involved 3 hours loading, 4 hours of sleep and quite a hassle when it turned out that the truck was too big for the tiny streets in the heart of Jerez!  Ofloading was easier but it's a good job we're young (???!!!) and fit! 

Where next might include Cabo de Gata, as we will be heading that way in early July for a brief meet with some of the family.  I wonder if we will pass through Andarax wine country...I might have to stow a case of Tempranillo under my helmet...should be fun.

We're back from a 3 day walk in the mountains...2 nights sleeping out in the wilds...minimal rations, lightweight kit, about 40km of wandering and an altitude differential of 1700 m. Temperature range of +25 down to +7, with gusting southerly winds once we got above 2,500m. But we had a great time of it and I thoroughly enjoyed my first taste of bivvying, not least because of the full moon that came up over the mountains at about 01.00 hrs each night and because I was WARM and COMFORTABLE!!

We spent the first night beside a fast-flowing river, on a little 'island' of grass that seemed to be both cowpat and fox free. We had walked for about 3 hrs, just to get ourselves beyond civilisation and into more remote areas. Steve got his stove going and we dined on hot tea, instant soup, 1 home-made pate sandwich each and a handful of mixed nuts. As dusk fell, we made up our beds on the most level ground we could find, for which I recommend the following: a cheap insulating mat, followed by a silver (thermal) car sunscreen visor, overlaid with the best and lightest Thermarest airmat you can afford, then (from outer to inner), a waterproof bivi-bag, a good quality down sleeping bag (thank you Cumulus) and a silk sleeping bag liner (much easier to wash than a sleeping bag). I wore merino wool leggings and long-sleeved top, a fleece top as well, socks and beanie. Plenty cosy enough at 1700m.

Our first full day we set off at about 08.00 hrs and climbed, wandered, scrambled and detoured until we reached a high level laguna which still had its own little glacier floating round the edge. We had seen one other person, a local man on his horse, checking the fast-flowing streams for blockages...and many cows and calves, all greatly interested in these passing bipeds. We found gentians and orchids, long-bodied beetles and clusters of butterflies. Eventually we began to climb even higher and somehow arrived at the top of one of the 3000m+ picos (over 10,000 ft). That was when the full force of the wind attacked us. I could hardly keep my balance and was glad of my beanie, walking pole and Montane jacket...at this altitude the sun yields to the wind and summer clothing is totally inadequate. We found a stone-built 'huddling' spot and put on all the necessary layers, admiring the views north as we did so: we were looking out over the Granada-Guadix valley and far, far beyond. Much nearer of course, was Mulhacen, La Alcazaba and Atalaya, still with patches of snow on them and looking magnificent in their isolation.

Our second bivi was a bit more primitive and less magnificent: huge, sheltering rocks, the dusty ground littered with goat poo and the strong wind sounding like a train as it roared up the valley. The head chef did well to boil enough water for noodles, followed by a muesli bar and more nuts. He buried the food bags under stones so that any passing fox would not get at them and we turned in as darkness fell. All we could see below us were the twinkling lights of distant pueblos...and a dawn sun several hours later to gladden our hearts!

Day 3 was a long, hard slog...about 9 hrs of ridge-walking and steep, downhill travelling, which is almost worse than going up! My knees were protesting by the end and I was tempted to hi-jack a passing cowman on his beautiful grey horse, just to give them a rest. Unfortunately he was going in the wrong direction and had many cows to herd, so we exchanged pleasantries and moved on. By now we had very limited water supplies (despite water filtration and carrying almost 2 litres each) but we managed to reach our final destination with 1/4 litre left and the happy prospect of some beer in the nearest bar!

This type of walking and camping may not be everyone's choice (I nearly said cup of tea, one of the essentials for me!), but with the right gear, good maps and compasses, some sensible decision-making and NO WHINGEING, it's great fun. Tomorrow we shall probably start planning the next foray...tonight I fancy a bivi in my own bed!