my torrevieja diary

I have a permanent case of itchy feet. Having settled into my new apartment and got my bearings in Torrevieja, I was on the look out for daytrips to the surrounding areas.

I am also a rather spontaneous traveller, as  prone to going off to  Hong Kong the next day if the fancy takes me, as hopping on a bus visiting  a place nearby. Or, as in this case, on a boat.  Admittedly only being a free lance writer and having no family allows me such freedom.

I have read some comments on Tabarca related websites, tripadvisor among them, which said that the island is small, there is nothing to do, it´s dead boring and what few restaurants there are, are a rip off. I beg to differ. A trip, any trip, is only as boring as you make it and if you are afraid of being ripped off-well, nothing prevents you from packing a picnic lunch.

In that case however, you will miss out on a speciality of the island, caldero which is a delicious fish stew and it was no rip off in the Pirate restaurant at all.

But, back to the beginning. I walked to the marina and saw a kiosk offering a boat trip to the island of Tabarca. It´s the smallest permanently inhabited island in all of Spain, located in the middle of a Maritime Reserve and was, until the end of the 18^th century, a refuge for the Barbaric pirates. If that isn´t incentive enough, I don´t know what is.

A glass bottom catamaran ferry takes you there in about 40 to 50 minutes. The boat ride alone is already a pleasure with views of the coastline towards Santa Pola and beyond and watching the fish through the glass bottom, all swimming in crystal clear water.

You can only take this trip from May to October and I have to say that it can get a bit choppy. If you get seasick, you better check the weather report before you go.

Approaching the island, you can already see the walls of a fortification which was built in the 18^th century to protect against attacks from said pirates. The entire town was basically a military base, the streets are laid out in square pattern, a lighthouse is standing on one end and a quite nice church raises it´s tower above the walls.

The ferry leaves at 11am and returns at 6pm, so you have about 6 hours to spend in Tabarca. The island is approx. 20km long and all of 300m wide and the permanent population count is around 70. It would be very interesting to rent a place there during the winter months when there are no ferries and no tourists to see how they spend their time. An ideal place, I guess, to write a book.

Once off the ferry, I turned left and walked towards the lighthouse. I was amazed to see the rather harsh vegetation, very much in contrast to the orchards, pine trees and orange groves on the mainland. You can also watch rare birds perched on tiny rocks in the middle of the sea and plants and flowers which you don´t find on the mainland.

Then I headed back and walked through the town, past the church and through small streets, tiny, shaded squares, past a first rate hotel which was once the governor´s residence to the rocky and quite slippery other end. Part of the walk leads along the fortification wall with lovely views.

Whilst criss crossing the streets, I came upon the above mentioned Pirate restaurant, a theme in tune with the island´s history and enjoyed my huge bowl of caldero.

The remaining hours I spent on one of the pebbly beaches where you can rent sun beds and umbrellas. I had brought my snorkelling equipment and a book and didn`t have one dull moment! Due to the permanent breeze it isn´t too hot, even in the middle of summer.

All in all, a great daytrip which I can only recommend.

Torrevieja´s history is closely related to salt, the harvesting and the exporting of the mineral. Several salt lakes or lagoons are nearby on the road to Santa Pola and you´ll find reference to salt everywhere in Torrevieja.

My passion are museums of which there aren´t too many in Torrevieja. So, I was delighted to learn about the existence of the museum of the salt and the sea. During the first months of my stay and much to my disappointment, the museum was closed for refurbishment, but now it has opened its doors again.

Small it may be, but it contains a selection of objects which represent the roots of Torrevieja, i.e. the salt industry and everything to do with it. In fact, only last week and for the first time in many decades, a freighter was under way to export salt to the USA.

Located in Calle Patricio Perez close to the promenade, the first thing that caught my eye were glittering sculptures of ships and ancient buildings made from salt. I have seen ice sculptures, sugar sculptures but never salt sculptures, so that rounded the picture nicely out for me.

There are many exhibits of the process of harvesting salt, boats, maps, old photographs, all nicely displayed and explained in big show cases.

I also had to smile when I saw an old SINGER sewing machine, used to make the laborers´ clothes. SINGER is a trademark for Germany which you will find anywhere in the world.

Entrance is free and a bonus was the curator who watches over the place. Nobody else but me was visiting, so we got to chat about history, football and Wagner operas.

I tell you, the world is full of surprises!! A very enjoyable morning indeed.

Where to get your book fix in Torrevieja

Reading is as essential to me as eating. I can’t go to sleep unless I have read at least a few pages of my latest book of choice. I also have to say, that I am a great fan of ´real´ books, by which I mean proper books as opposed to Kindle etc. I need to turn pages and hold the thing in my hand to really enjoy it. But, of course, tastes are different and ebooks  do have their advantages.

During my first days in Torrevieja, after I had finally sorted out all the paperwork related to the purchase of my apartment and could breathe a sigh of relief, I went in search of bookshops and libraries.

Just around the corner from the post office in Calle Caballero de Rodas, I found the public library. There are actually two in Torrevieja itself and another one in La Mata. The bigger one in Torrevieja is located right at the end of in Avda.Diego Ramirez, so for me, that´s quite a hike. The one near the post office is much more convenient, but...they  only have books in Spanish. For me, that´s not a problem but for those who don´t read Spanish, it will have to be the other one.

To borrow books you need to get a user card and you can only obtain this if you are empadronado.

As an alternative, I went in search of book shops which sell books in several languages and, preferably second hand ones too. My first choice is Santos Ochoa right next to the central market.

Not only is the shop beautiful, but they have a vast selection of books in Spanish and English. Outside are bins with second hand paperbacks in English, the average price being €3.95.

If you want to turn your book buying expedition into a social event, there is no better place to go than Bargain Books in Calle Ramon Gallud, very close to Calle Orihuela. The small shop is English owned and there is always someone there to chat to, in fact quite a few customers come here on a daily basis for just that.

They have new and second hand English books, paperbacks as well as hard cover and a few Spanish ones. In addition you can get a bit of stationery and a vast selection of greeting cards (English of course). There is even a bit of costume jewellery on offer. The average price for second hand paperbacks is also €3.95, but there are even a few cheaper bargains to be had.

Lastly, I found a place where you can exchange books, in several languages and in a very limited selection, but even so. It´s a pizzeria in Avenida de La Purissima (near the promenade between the Phoenician columns and Playa de los Locos). Bring one in, take one out and they don´t even look at you funny if you don´t also have a coffee.

Having said that, they have an ample and very appetizing menu, so you might  want to combine book exchanging with a bite to eat.

Happy reading.

I could live just about anywhere in the world, as long as it ´s warm and by the sea. Mountains, snow, countryside- no so much my thing. In fact, I have done my fair share of continent hopping and I don´t mean just on holidays, but actually living there. To boot:  South Africa, Turkey, Lebanon, Caymans, Florida and Spain. The UK was at least by the sea, I´ll skip talking about the weather. Some stays were longer, some shorter and now it´s Spain for the second time, Torrevieja to be precise.

Naturally, the first days of my stay were dedicated to exploring the waterfront. To my delight, I found that there are plenty of beaches. They are not very big, but of a great variety. You find white sand (we are after all on the Costa Blanca) as well as rocks and some pretty steep cliffs. Something for every taste.

 The initial delight disappeared a bit during the summer months, because the beaches get so crowded you can´t see the water. I took to walks along the promenade and doing a spot of sunbathing on the roof terrace of my building. Nobody else came up there, bliss!

Paya del Cura is the most popular beach with powdery sand and shallow water which makes it ideal for kids. And that´s also why it is so full in the season that you can´t step. I like Playa de los Locos better, because the beach alternates between sandy and rocky which makes it a bit more interesting. Also full in the summer but a little less so. I´ll write about other beaches in a separate post, this one is only meant to give an overview.

What is really, really bad though is the lack of public toilets. For thousands and thousands of people, there are just TWO. Maybe the people in Torrevieja´s administration read this and start doing something about it.

Back to the crowds on the beach during the summer month and how I found an alternative for swimming. Torrevieja does have a huge public pool, but if, like me, you don´t have a car, it´s very time-consuming to get there and back. Torrevieja´s public transport is another subject for a later post because it´s a science.

Having looked at the Casino, I crossed the street and entered the Real Club Nautico. They have a pool, although not very big, but you can only use it, if you are a member. You can eat and drink there, but you can´t use their gym and other amenities unless you fork over €4000 membership fees, reduced to a mere €2000 if another member sponsors you. No way, Jose!

And on I walked along the Marina and found my solution. Several very pretty bar/restaurants line the waterfront, right next to the boats. One is called Jaima which does not only sound Arabic but also looks the picture. These places thrive as nightclubs, but during the day hardly anybody is there. They have a pool and for just €5 you can enjoy one of the daybeds, swim as much and as long as you want and  get a drink thrown in.

So, three times a week, I spent half a day there in peace and quiet, looking with pity at the crowded Playa del Cura on my way home.

I haven´t said this before, but my travel blog is called www.glamourgrannytravels.com. The name, I think, says it all. When I first came to Torrevieja, I noticed very quickly that you can call the place a lot of things, but glamorous is not one of them. No Chanel boutique, no Dior, no Versace, no Spanish fashion designers either and definitely no `Manolos`. The fashion shops I found do carry some pretty things and the chain Rivera has all the best perfumes and cosmetics. So, all is not lost.

Finding my way around and walking along the promenade, I happened upon the Casino and, lo and behold, glamour looked back at me.

For those who kindly read this post but don´t live in Spain, I have to explain that these casinos which you find in many places, have nothing to do with gambling. They are cultural and social clubs in beautiful buildings where members meet to socialize, eat, drink and attend the various cultural functions organised by the society. The casinos are open to everybody, but only members are allowed to sit at the window tables and use a private loo.

Torrevieja´s Casino is a fine example of a splendid mixture of Art Deco, Classical and Andalucian style with some Arabic elements thrown in. It opened in 1867 and got its present shape in 1905. As a little anecdote: only since 1997 is membership open to women.

The wrought iron facade and columns give shade to the tables forming the terrace with nice views of the sea, the marina and the nearby Real Club Nautico. The main room which is also the venue for concerts, recitals and conferences is decorated with mirrors, paintings and chandeliers with the famous window seats and tables and comfortable chairs for everybody else. It´s an ideal meeting place because it´s easy to find and the tables are spaced apart so you can have a conversation without everybody listening in.

Next comes a dining room in the Arabic style and a bar which serves excellent  hot and cold tapas. A carved wooden staircase with more paintings leads up to private rooms where members can sit and a balcony which is open to the public in summer.

The Casino offers a full menu and is one of the few places where you can have four different kinds of paella for one person. Normally the minimum is two which often leaves a solo diner without his or her coveted paella.

I have been on the look out for other casinos during my trips from Torrevieja and the most Impressive I found so far is in Murcia. However, the one in Torrevieja isn´t far behind, just a bit smaller and certainly a place which evokes the glamour of times gone by.

I have since then become a member as foreigners are admitted too as long as they are residents. All you have to do is ask a member of stuff for an application form and have another member vouch for you. The monthly contribution is €18. I personally couldn´t have asked for a better ´local´ and I´m very much looking forward to attending one of the functions.

Anniversary!

It´s a year to the day, that I have moved into my, brand new little place in Torrevieja .So, it´s time to draw a conclusion and recall  what I have done, seen and learned in my year on the Costa Blanca South.

Where did I come from, you might ask. Well, I spent the last few years in Turkey, so the move to Spain meant sort of a culture shock. But, that´s exactly what I wanted, being curious by nature and always on the move in search of new experiences and adventures.

I had the south of Spain in mind and I ended up in Torrevieja purely for economic reasons. I was looking to buy a property which I could afford without a mortgage and still having something left over to live on. As chance would have it, I found just such a place here, small but comfy, just steps from the beach, with a sea view, supermarket and town centre within walking distance , central bus station nearby, in short, anything a person living on her own and not having or wanting a car needed.

I like the promenade where I can go for my daily power walks, I like the shops, the public library and the fact that Torrevieja has a concert hall as well as a theatre.

Best of all is the climate. Sunshine nearly all year, but when it rains you better stay home because in minutes you will be ankle deep in water, the drainage is not Torrevieja´s strong point. As for company, I have recently joined the cultural society of the Casino and there are countless expat associations which I even haven´t checked out much yet.

I  like the cosmopolitan atmosphere, you hear English, French, German and Russian every day in the street and in the shops. So anybody who doesn´t speak Spanish won´t have a problem at all and those who do, like me, can keep their language skills up to date.

This is it for today by way of introduction. More details are coming in further posts but now it´s just far too nice outside to be sitting here. A year has gone by and it has been a positive one.