my torrevieja diary

The pirates come to town!

It’s incredible how fast a year goes by. As of this weekend, the tapas route is rolling around again in Torrevieja. This year, 61 bars and restaurants participate, competing to win the prize for the best of these so very typical Spanish sacks.

They are divided into two categories: tapas caseras and tapas gourmet. The former cost €2 incl. a drink and the latter €2.50. And I have to say, that the gourmet ones get more and more elaborate. I find nothing wrong with the good, old standby of a juicy piece of tortilla or a saucer of boquerones, but if you fancy green tinted mini burgers nothing stands in your way.

Last year’s tapas route was under the theme of a treasure hunt and this year’s stands under the star of pirates. Most appropriate for a sea side town like Torrevieja, close to the pirate island of Tabarca.

So, it’s not only the tapas you can enjoy but also a pirate themed little market in the Plaza de la Constitucion and Calle Caballero de Rosas.

I went yesterday afternoon when it wasn’t as crowded as it will be today and found plenty of stalls selling trinkets which were much nicer and more unusual than those which abound in the countless markets all over the towns and villages on the Costa Blanca. You won’t have to starve either, grilled sausages, meat, pulpo and sweets are to be found in the plaza.

Given that few people were around, the stall keepers were delighted to pose in their colourful costumes and to let me take pictures of the treasure troves which are their wares.

You can still visit all of next week and sample special tapas this and the  next weekend. On top of it, after so many days of rain, wind, cold and generally miserable weather the sun is shining again.

I have already told you about the importance of salt in Torrevieja, how the industry is closely related to the history of the town and how all of it is documented in the lovely museum of the salt and sea.

Another keyword defining Torrevieja is music, more precisely Las Habaneras. They are songs the theme of which is the life, comings and goings of the seamen who departed from Torrevieja to lands as far away as the Caribbean. A local composer, Ricardo Lafuente, is responsible for the creation of countless songs, as well as the formation of an orchestra and choir performing his works in concerts and competitions  which reach international level.

From 19^th to 25^th July, we are in for a special treat. During this week, the choir takes to the beach, Playa del Cura and performs nightly in the sand with the sea as a more than suitable background.

Born in Torrevieja, Ricardo Lafuente, who passed away in 2008, is as closely a part of the town’s history as is the salt industry and the casino. His past, apart from writing habaneras, includes a career as a printer and founder of the first choirs.

The old railway station, which, hopefully one day will become operative again, is the venue of El Museo de Las Habaneras, another Torrevieja museum not to be missed. The exhibits not only comprise his musical work and memorabilia but also the printer part.

Small wonder then, that several locations in Torrevieja are named Habaneras. One is a major road, Avenida de Las Habaneras which leads to Playa de los Locos.  Another is a quite pretty shopping center.

Older than Zenia Boulevard and a bit difficult to reach on foot, it’s nonetheless convenient with a big Carrefour nearby, a ZARA clothes and home shop and many other  outlets and a cinema.

Far less glamorous too and with less activities apart from shopping and a spot of eating, it does have a children’s corner and comfortably wide aisles.

Yes, salt and song certainly pull together in Torrevieja.