my torrevieja diary

What I like best about Torrevieja is, that you can go on plenty of daytrips to ever different places which are not too far away. Especially during the summer months,  and we are approaching fast, Torrevieja  gets a bit too hot even for the most persistent sun worshippers  and you’d like to have a break. Or you simply crave a change of scenery, a spot of unspoilt nature and a breath of fresh air combined with a dip in cold water.  Algar waterfalls is just the place for you.

Where are they, you will want to know. Well, roughly, northwest of Benidorm. From Torrevieja, take the AP-7 (toll road) or the N-332 to Benidorm. From there take the CV-70 and the CV-715 to La Nucia. Head for Polop (signposted) and from there to Callosa d´en Sarria and follow the signs to the Algar Waterfalls.

I however, went by another means. If you live or visit here, you will know that guys walk along the promenade, distributing leaflets for free daytrips. These are of course promotional tours, which means you are supposed to buy beds, kitchen stuff, leather good or what have you. You have to sit through a lengthy presentation but, from time to time, the final destination is worth it, especially if you don’t have a car like me. It’s only fair, these people lay on a free tour and a free meal, naturally, they want to sell something. Up to you, but don’t stint on the tip for the driver.

I have only gone three times when the final stop was a destination I would otherwise not have been able to reach easily, much less in the form of a daytrip. On the other hand, apart from seeing something worthwhile, I have made friends. So, back to the Algar waterfalls!

The river Algar empties into the Mediterranean at Altea. On its way there, it passes the town of Callosa d´en Sarria, located some 15kms from Benidorm and about the same distance from Altea, where it forms a series of roaring waterfalls, cascading down the rocks into  natural pools. Known as Les Fonts dé l`algar, the entire area is a nature reserve and as such protected. Callosa is a centre for agriculture and for growing loquat or nispero, the delicious yellow/orange fruit.

Apart from the waterfalls, the nature reserve is a showcase for lush Mediterranean flora which is why it also contains an arboretum, open to visitors.

Callosa itself is a medieval town with parts of the old Fortalesa de Bernia still visible and a curiosity: El Poador de la Font Mayor, a public washing place built in 1786 which provided space for over 70 people.

A piece of advice first: bring a swim suit and towel (for the dip) and wear good walking shoes because it gets slippery in places.

There is ample parking at the foot of the waterfalls (all well signposted), then head up to the entrance, pay your admission of €4 for adults and €for kids up to 10 years, walk along the footpath to a wooden structure which contains a souvenir shop, a small restaurant/cafeteria and toilets, then climb  downwooden steps and follow the indicated path along the length of the river, leading from one cascade to the next.

It´s all a wooden boardwalk with sturdy wooden banisters to cling on to when it gets slippery.

Along the way you can veer off and step on the rocks, hop around in the pools, particularly Toll de la Para which is at the turning point of the walkway.

After you have had your fun, you can either return to where you came in, or continue through a tunnel to an area further up, where you find the arbolarium and a picnic area. Together with your ticket you will be given a map which clearly indicates each point of interest of the entire circle. Don´t forget to buy some of the nisperos or other fruit when they are in season.

Back in Torrevieja, you’ll be ready for another round of swimming and sunbathing on one of the pretty beaches.

If you live in Torrevieja or plan to visit, I imagine that you would want to know what gave the place its name.

Torrevieja translates into Old Tower and, indeed, an ancient Moorish tower is still left overlooking the coast. The tower as you see it today isn’t ancient, but at least the foundations are. Gardens, a kid`s playground and one or two pretty chiringuitos make up the area known as Cabo del Moro, right opposite the Hotel Masia.

One of my favourite Sunday morning activities is to walk to the Tower, starting from Playa de Los Locos because I live only steps away. I like that beach best, because sandy stretches alternate with rocky parts which are quite spectacular and much more interesting than just miles and miles of sand.

Come the 15^th of March, my first stop is at a stand which makes and sells the best churros con chocolate. Sadly, only on weekends and they are closed during the winter. Not for nothing is there always a long queue.

Bag with churros in hand, although I prefer them with sugar instead of chocolate which is also less messy when eaten on the go, I walk through a long established restaurant, the 222. Not because I need more food, but because of the lovely tropical garden.

After that, there is no pavement on the beach side of the road. Watch your back as traffic is whizzing past, which, in summer, can be a bit stressful. It’s also not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs. If you need to, use the opposite side, but then you miss what makes the walk so nice, the many paths which  lead to one cala after another. Veer to your right and take one or the other leading  to the cliffs and gaze down at the churning sea. Just don’t fall off. I haven’t tried yet to walk all the way to the tower along the cliffs, thus avoiding the main road altogether. I doubt that it’s possible though, because there are hotels and fenced off private homes along the way.

Churros finshed, passing the rather grandly named but run down Hotel Eden Roc, I reached the tower, looked over the wall, had a little walk through the playground and was on my way back.

This route is popular with dog walkers, joggers and serious runners, so it’s not only cars that are whizzing past you. Unless of course, you opt to jog too, but in that case you can’t munch churros. The choice is yours!

La Casa del Reloj / San Pedro del Pinatar

Always on the look out for interesting trips, not far away from Torrevieja, I happened upon San Pedro del Pinatar.

Travelling  in the direction of Cartagena, I arrived at  San Pedro, a well known beach resort on Spain´s Costa Calida. Located at the shores of  Mar Menor, Europe´s biggest salt lake separated from the Mediterranean by a 24km long sand bank known as La Manga, San Pedro is famous for the mud found at the bottom of the salt lake. It has  healing properties and people happily cover themselves in the healthy dirt. But this, mind you, is a summer entertainment and we are still in winter.

I went with friends in the know and they showed me the subject of this post: La Casa del Reloj, a historical building which is today a restaurant and I got so fascinated I nearly didn’t want to go anywhere else.

You have to know the location and to watch out, because, sadly, this beautiful building is surrounded by a hideous industrial estate. Not even a more or less nice shopping mall, no, run down low budget outlets, a shame.

But, turn into the drive and the palm alley which leads to the front door, crossing through the lush gardens and you forget what lurks outside.

La Case del Reloj was built as a summer residence for the Servet family between 1888 and 1895 and shows a great variety of styles and architectural elements. Attention to detail, lavish decorations, chandeliers, art deco lamps, original furniture, a wide wooden staircase and a very glamorous bar, you really don´t know where to look first.

In 1899 the first president of the first Spanish Republic, Emilio Castelar died here which makes the premises even more of a historical building.

We were too early to have a meal, but a glance at the menu revealed the hand of a first class chef. Mouthwatering starters, meat and fresh fish dishes as well as a few traditional Spanish specialties made me reluctant to depart. I would have liked to sample some, especially a lobster salad. I could subsist on lobster.

Alas, it was not to be this time, but I enjoyed the rooms, the already laid tables and fine crockery, the paintings and sculptures. La Casa del Reloj is one of these places where surroundings are as important as the food.

If you want to know more and take a look at the menu, visit their website: http://www.restaurantelacasadelreloj.com.

We made our way into San Pedro proper and looked at the areas where people can enjoy the mud and had a walk along the lovely promenade with plenty of nice cafes and a great view over La Manga and Mar Menor.

From time to time, a girl just needs a shopping spree. In Torrevieja itself, we have Las Habaneras, but if you want some fun thrown in, nothing better that heading for the relatively new La Zenia Boulevard.

If you have a car, no problem, but, if like me, you have to rely on public transport, matters get a bit more difficult. Let me give you the latest update. There are just two (!!) buses running there from Torrevieja. The first at 8am, the next at 12.45am and that’s it. They leave you at the entrance, any other time you must take a bus to Cartagena, get off at the Playa Flamenca stop and...hike.

The return time table is even weirder: 3pm and 9pm. The girl at the ticket counter told me, that when the mall opened, there was an hourly bus, but, not any more. A taxi, depending on where you go in Torrevieja, sets you back at least €12. Practicalities out of the way, the mall itself is very nice indeed, not only for shopping but also for eating and fun for kids if you have any.

Centre piece so to speak is the fountain, very popular in the summer  with kids who can’t get enough of running around under the gusts of water, getting happily drenched.

Several smaller stands although with tables and chairs are around the fountain, offering drinks, crepes, ice cream and snacks.

The shops range from low cost (Primark) to medium. ZARA Home as well as ZARA clothes, Massimo Dutti, other British high street stores, Italian knitwear, shoes, bags and perfumerias galore.  Two great interior decoration shops, a vast Alcampo supermarket round out the picture in short, you will find everything you need in a mall which is easily negotiated.

They also do events, like a recent carnival parade, sometimes life music. Just check the local paper. Most conveniently, La Zenia Boulevard shops do not close during siesta and are open year around with the exception of a few bank holidays.

I love the feel of the open ‘streets’, with plenty of benches and flowers, big toy animals for kids to ride around on, play areas, in fact, the place is quite family orientated.

The upper level is dedicated to food. I especially like the three tapas bars, offering hot and cold tapas as well as montaditos. Italian, Chinese, what ever takes your fancy you can fill your stomach with, sitting out in the sunshine.

Even if you buy nothing more than a lip stick or a T-shirt, a trip to La Zenia Boulevard makes for a pleasant few hours people watching.