Puntos de vista - a personal Spain blog

‘Spis lige brød til’ is Danish and translates to ‘Have some bread with that’. It is a phrase usually used to say take a breath to someone who has worked hard for something difficult.

For the purpose of this article, I am sticking to the literal meaning:

‘Have some bread with that’

On the eve of Andalucia Day, my wife Rita and I went de tapeo to Ronda with a Danish couple, Claus and Ellen. This recently retired couple from Copenhagen, are touring Spain and Portugal for two months. They drove from Denmark through Germany and France and entered Spain via Catalonia. They are "great Danes"! Boom! Boom!

I met them at my local, Hotel Ronda Valley (formerly Hotel Don Benito) on the Seville road out of Ronda. They were staying for two nights before heading south to Tarifa, then Cadiz, before entering Portugal.

We struck up an immediate friendship, as a result of which I offered to give them a tapas experience in Ronda. Rita came too. She found Claus and Ellen enchanting.

When we arrived in Ronda, we parked on the carpark at the old Guardia Civil barracks and walked into town. First stop was Toro Tapas, on Calle La Bola (Espinel) where, despite it being very busy, we got a nice table just inside.

We ordered several tapas: rabo de toro, chorizo al tinto, tosta de salmón and patatas bravas. Our Danish guests and Rita chose a nice Ronda wine, Lunares, while I stuck to Estrella Galicia beer.

Our lingua franca was English (theirs was nearly as good as mine!) and the conversation flowed: they were interested in us and we in them.

Next stop was the newish bar, La Caña. Guess who were there; our good friends Michael (Irish), Malcolm (English) and Elaine (Scottish), all three long-term residents of Ronda. Michael is a translator, teacher and poet; Elaine is a successful painter and jewellery maker and Malcolm a retired estate agent.

Our foursome grabbed the last available table and were attended by the lovely Laura. Here I chose a beer from Jaén, El Alcázar, while my companions went for another Ronda wine Niño León.

Foodwise it was albondigas, chorizo al tinto (again!), bollo de filete and bollo de calamar both con mojo picón.

After I had a brief chat with a young couple, Maria from Cataluña and Ashley from England, who were visiting with work, we decided to head back to the carpark and get one last round at one of our favourite bars, Bodega San Francisco. It was heaving but we found a table.

Here, the wine connoisseurs took another Ronda wine, this time from Chinchilla. I had an Alhambra 1925 from Granada.

We ordered our favourites: aguacate stuffed with seafood and rollito de salmón. Mmmm!

Then, it was back to the valley in their luxury hybrid BMW 504e, fond farewells and off to bed.

©  Pablo de Ronda

Further reading:

Elaine Moore All about Elaine

LOCAL AUTHORS - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Days of (Ronda) Wine… and Roses - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Acknowledgements (Photos):

Ashley Brocklehurst

Trip Advisor

Tags:

aguacate, albondigas, Alhambra 1925, Andalucia, BMW 504e, Bodega San Francisco, bollo de calamar, bollo de filete, Chinchilla, chorizo al tinto, Claus, Copenhagen, Denmark, El Alcazar, Ellen, Estrella Galicia, Granada, Hotel Ronda Valley, Jaen, La Caña, Lunares, mojo picón, Niño Leon, patatas bravas, rabo de toro, rollito de salmón, tapa, Toro Tapas, tosta de salmón

La Asociacion de Prensa de la Costa del Sol (Costa Press Club), of which I've been a member for some dozen years, is a social grouping of journalists, writers and other media people living and working in Southern Andalucia. The group is international; present at last Tuesday's get-together were English, Welsh and Scots; two Australians; two Germans; an Argentinian, as well as a couple of Spanish.

Pre-amble

The February get-together for a presentation and dinner was earlier this week at Restaurante La Alvaroteca in Malaga City.

An impressive 34 members and guests turned up, the highest attendance yet in the 20-odd year existence of the association.

What was the attraction? The restaurant where we were to meet? Or, the speakers? A combination, I think.

The chosen restaurant on this occasion was La Alvaroteca, in the centre. After a pre-dinner vermouth-based cocktail and a natter, we occupied our seats in the private dining room, and were treated to three talks by publisherd authors.

Two women and one man, ranging from 70-odd down to 22 years of age. Two were/are members of the CPC.

The evening was introduced by Joanna Styles, CPC committee member and the organiser of this event, and compered by Neil Hesketh, the new chairman, elected following the sad and premature death last year of previous incumbent Dane Jesper Sander Pedersen.

 "Writing and publishing under the microscope"

The panel of authors taking part in the presentation included a Scottish lady, an Englishman and a Welshwoman.

First up was Joan Fallon, a Scottish-born lady who has lived in southern Spain for longer than she hasn't. She is the author of 18 published books, one non-fiction and the rest novels, usually set against a Spanish historical backdrop. Joan is a long-standing member of the Costa Press Club. Joan managed to find a publisher, 

Nick Foster, an Englishman, writes novels based on true crimes. Nick splits his time between Spain and the Netherlands and has half a dozen published books. He self-publishes and his books are available from Amazon.

Katie Lewis, born in Spain of Welsh parents, is the "new-kid-on-the-block". Just 22, she is tri-lingual and has one book published but several others in the pipeline. She also self-publishes. She writes fantasies in English and translates them herself into Spanish.

All three spoke about their own backgrounds and what inspires them to write, and offered advice to aspiring authors.

After a few questions from the audience, we settled down for the main event. We were getting a bit peckish!

La Alvaroteca

Dinner was a menu de degustacion, comprising a wealth of exquisite tapas. My wife, an occasional guest at these functions, and no mean cook herself, declared it to be the best yet of the several CPC dinners she has attended. We were served the following:

Ensaladilla de Gambas

Tosta de Arroz Negro, Anguila Ahumada y Ali Oli

Coliflor a la Crema

Chipirón en Salsa Americana

Merluza, Holandesa y Lechuga

Postre - leche, Tomillo y Calabaza

Then, it was all over. People got into their Ubers and Bolts and headed off home. We just ambled across the road to our hotel, the reasonably-priced Hotel Goartin. We had planned a mini-break around the CPC meeting, so that we could enjoy a couple of days on the coast and in magnificent Malaga.

© Pablo de Ronda

Factfile:

Costa Press Club, http://costapressclub.com 

La Alvaroteca, C. Gerona, 38 bis, Cruz de Humilladero, 29006 Málaga  Teléfono: 680 62 52 14

Hotel Goartin, C. Gerona, 32, Cruz de Humilladero, 29006 Málaga  Teléfono: 952 36 51 35

Joan Fallon, Home - Joan Fallon, Amazon.es: Joan Fallon: books, biography, latest update

Nick Foster, Amazon.es : nick foster

Katie Lewis, (5) Video | Facebook - "A Curse of Love and Law" is available in both English and Spanish and is the first of a series.

Acknowledgements:

Liz Parry (official chronicler of the Costa Press Club)

Karl Smallman (photo of the authors)

Paul Whitelock (all other photos)

SUR in English (background information)

Tags:

Alvaroteca, Asociacion de Prensa, Costa Press Club, Hotel Goartin, Jesper Sander Pedersen, Joan Fallon, Joanna Styles, Katie Lewis, Malaga, Neil Hesketh, Nick Foster, Pablo de Ronda, Sur in English

Celebrating St Valentine’s Day in style

The Tropicana is a restaurant in Ronda. We used to go when it was a tiny place on a corner on Avenida de Malaga. Then, around 2019, they purchased premises in the centre of Ronda, and refurbished the local. Then came the Coronavirus pandemic, with its lockdowns, and the team, led by father and son, both called José Antonio, had to adapt their plans. Since the “all clear”, however, this fine restaurant has established a strong reputation and it’s hard to get a table these days. Well, it's number 2 in Ronda on TripAdvisor.

14 February 2024

We tried to book last year, but they were full. This time I booked a few days in advance and there was no problem. On arrival last night, there was a sign outside informing would-be diners that Tropicana was fully booked.

Polite staff showed us to our table in a well-designed and spacious dining room. We checked out the menu to a background of foreign voices, some English, but, astonishingly, lots of Italian. Was there a conference in town?

Of course, at 8.30 pm there were no Spanish – far too early for them.

Our food

For our entradas (starters) we opted to order two and share.

We went for ensalada tropicana, which as the name suggests had some tropical fruit in it with a variety of leaves and a scoop of ice cream. We also chose croquetas de la casa. Both were delicious.

For our main courses Rita chose pulpo (octopus) and I went for conejo (rabbit), which you don’t see much on menus these days. But what to drink? Red? White? We went down the middle and chose rosado – Cloe, from local bodega, Doña Felisa.

Rita found her pulpo sensational, and I thoroughly enjoyed my conejo. There was no buckshot to contend with, which has been my experience in the past.

The wine, nicely chilled, went well with both the “fish” and the “meat”.

Nicely replete, we nevertheless shared a dessert, tarta de zanahoria (carrot cake). Not too sweet, except for the Chantilly cream which we ended up scraping off.

All in all, a very pleasant evening. The bill came to 106 euros, which, for what we’d consumed, was perfectly in order.

The best bit was, Rita paid, her Valentine’s gift to me.

© Pablo de Ronda

Photos:

Cover photo courtesy of Restaurante Tropicana

All other photos by Paul and Rita Whitelock

Further information and Links:

Restaurante Tropicana, Calle Virgen de los Dolores, 11, 29400 Ronda (Malaga) 

Tel: 952 87 89 85

www.bodegadoñafelisa.com 

www.help-me-ronda.com 

Restaurante Tropicana - Restaurante Ronda (negocio.site)

Tags:

Bodega Doña Felisa, Cloe, conejo, croquetas, ensalada Tropicana, Pablo de Ronda, pulpo, Rita, Ronda, rosado, tarta de zanahoria, tropical fruits, Tropicana, zanahoria

As we all know, exits from motorways and main roads correspond to the distance in kilometres from the start of that road. For example, all roads leading from Madrid start at kilómetro cero. The Carretera de Sevilla (A374) in Andalucía starts at Algodonales (Cádiz) and continues to Ronda (Málaga) at kilómetro 34.

The title of this piece, Kilómetro 26, refers to the exit to our house, but also to four hotels, three vineyards, two real estate agencies, the Spanish Foreign legion barracks and around 50 fincas.

This area is not a town, nor a village, but a pedanía, a district. Its name is Fuente de La Higuera, after the spring at the area’s heart. It has its own mayor(ess), and an active Asociación de Vecinos (AVV), a neighbourhood association.

Hotels, guesthouses, vineyards, estate agencies and casas rurales

Ronda Valley Hotel

The hotel right by the exit at kilómetro 26 is the Ronda Valley Hotel. The name was changed fairly recently by the Portuguese owners, probably unaware of its similarity to the name of an area in South Wales, the Rhondda Valley.

Locals and delivery drivers still know the hotel as the Hotel Don Benito, the name it had for several decades.

The Ronda Valley (nee Don Benito) is my local. It’s the second-nearest to my house, but, crucially it is open every single day of the year. Other hotels are seasonal and close for the winter.

I visit my local most days, either for an early morning coffee in the spring and summer months or for pre-dinner drinks in the evenings all year round.

Most of the patrons are locals, neighbours or folk who work in the area. These locals are farmers, agricultural workers, vineyard staff and off-duty legionaires. All Spanish.

There is also a sprinkling of foreigners (guiris), either tourists or residents. I am one. We are commonly referred to as ex-pats, but I prefer the word immigrants, because that is what we are.

The hotel is always busy and often full. The rooms are well-priced, so the Ronda Valley attracts lots of tourists, as well as commercial travellers. There is also a large free carpark, a massive terrace, a pool, tennis court and padel court. And, a restaurant. And the bar.

And it’s only seven minutes’ drive to Ronda.

I really like the Don Benito. It’s better than any local I ever had in England. Friendly staff, friendly locals and friendly prices.

***

Hotel Molino del Puente

100 metres along the road is this English-run hotel and restaurant. Ian and Elaine Love met as youngsters on the Costa del Sol. They got together, married and ran a successful restaurant in Cabopino, The Harbour Lights. They had three daughters.

Then after thirty successful years they decided to sell up and move inland. They chose Ronda, where they found, bought and renovated a dilapidated mill, and turned it into what it is today – a charming three-star hotel and acclaimed restaurant, La Cascada.

                                      Photo courtesy KAYAK

***

Love Viviendas

With offices based at the Hotel Molino del Puente, this relatively new estate agency is run by the aforementioned Ian Love and his middle daughter Carly Love. They are both experienced in the field, Ian inland and Carly on the coast. Now they have combined their expertise and experience and have developed a portfolio of properties across the whole of the Serrania de Ronda.

Love Viviendas

Telephone: +34 619 056 055

***

Cortijo La Perla Blanca and Bodegas Badman

From the hotel, take the right-hand fork and in 100 metres you come across the entrance to this mini-country estate. Up a 50-metre drive through a field of vines, you first come to the elegant cortijo, now a bijou hotel around a central courtyard. The rooms are well-appointed and expensive, but they are invariably full, especially at weekends.

Currently in the hands of a family from South Africa, they have been busy re-organising and tidying up.

Bodegas Badman are housed in a part of the main building and their vineyards extend up the hill. The winery is run by young entrepreneurs Sinbad and Manuel, hence the name of the winery.

They haven’t been going long but have steadily built a good reputation for their wines. They have already attained Denominación de origen (DO) status, which is equivalent to Appellation Controlée (AC) in France.

We like their tinto made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

***

A1 Inmobiliaria - Real Estate

Retracing your steps to the T-junction, turn right and after about 50 metres on your right is this independent estate agency.

A1 Inmobiliaria is a solo outfit run online by Paul Whitelock, although he works in collaboration with a number of other companies (see below).

A1 has a small portfolio of properties predominantly in Ronda and Montejaque. The properties range from hotels, bars and restaurants to small businesses, to fincas, apartments and village houses. We have visited all properties listed and know the owners personally.

A1 works in collaboration with: Andalucia Inland Properties (Málaga and Cádiz provinces), Inmobiliaria Atica (Ronda), Emma Inmobiliaria (Ronda), Montejaque Holiday & Service (Montejaque), Ronda Realty Properties (Ronda and Arriate) and Sierra Estates (Arriate).

Tel: Paul (+34 636 52 75 16)

English, French, German and Spanish spoken

***

Bodega Joaquín Fernández

Continuing up the hill, turn right at the fork and after about two kilometres you come to this ecological bodega. One of my favourites. I’ve done a couple of tasting tours there in the past led by Joaquín’s son “Moses” (Moises).

Unfortunately, Joaquín retired and sold out to an English pair. The new owners have decided to close the winery to the public – so no more tastings - and concentrate on wine production.

My favourite of their wines is a dry white wine made from black grapes. Delicious!

***

Hotel Molino del Arco

A bit further on along this country lane and you fetch up at the Hotel Molino del Arco, another mill conversion, which is now a 4-star hotel.

Spanish-owned and run, I know very little about this place. They seem to want to keep themselves to themselves. I think it’s guests only.

It's a beautiful and tranquil spot.

Tel: (+34) 952 11 40 17

info@hotelmolinodelarco.com

***

Finca Retama

Another five minutes further on and you reach a delightful casa rural, which has a 3-bed, 2-bath apartment in the main house and a separate luxury 2-bed 2-bath country villa with disabled access.

There is a large pool set in lawns, a sauna, table tennis and extensive grounds.

Owners Nick (English) and wife Julia (Hungarian) live on site and personally welcome their guests.

Between them, they speak English, Spanish and Hungarian.

www.fincaretama.com

Tel: (+34) 666 40 73 33

***

Bodegas Gonzalo Beltrán

Going back to the exit from the main road at kilómetro 26, on the other side of the road is a dirt track which takes you down under the railway line to the main buildings of the winery. Gonzalo has vineyards throughout the Valle del Tajo, below the town of Ronda, but this is his HQ.

My favourite wine of theirs is a tinto called Perezoso (lazy).

***

Campamento de la Legión

A little further on past several houses, many of them abandoned, is the Spanish Foreign Legion barracks. This army grouping was modelled on the infamous French Foreign Legion.

There are just two Legion bases on the Spanish mainland: here in Ronda and in Almería in eastern Andalucia, three hours away.

Apart from deploying troops to trouble-spots, as part of Spain’s commitment to NATO, La Legión is very active in the community, organising events and hosting tours. The most important of their events is the 101, a race for cyclists, runners and walkers. This take place, normally on an annual basis, over a weekend in early May.

The distance is 100 kilometres. The cyclists need a couple of hours or so, the quickest runners around six hours, and the walkers quite a bit longer. They are still walking past our house (the route passes through Fuente de la Higuera) in the early hours of Sunday morning.

***

Epilogue

So, Kilómetro 26, just an exit off the A374 road from Ronda to Sevilla, but an interesting one, I think. I wonder whether all junctions lead to such exciting places. I doubt it.

© Pablo de Ronda

Further reading:

Days of (Ronda) Wine… and Roses - Secret Serrania de Ronda

Early Morning Coffee (eyeonspain.com)

PLACES TO EAT - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

PLACES TO STAY - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

The other "Ronda valley" (eyeonspain.com)

Three new kids on the restaurant block - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

What is a guiri? It's what the Spanish call us foreigners - but is it good or bad? (secretserrania.com)

Tags:

101, A1, A1 Inmobiliaria, AC, agricultural workers, Almeria, Andalucia, Andalucia Inland Properties, Appellation Controlée, Badman, Bodega, Bodega Badman, Bodega Gonzalo Beltran, Bodega Joaquin, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabopino, Campamento de la Legion, Carly Love, Cortijo La Perla Blanca, Costa del Sol, Denominación de origen, DO, Don Benito, Emma Inmobiliaria, farmers, Fernandez, Finca Retama, French Foreign Legion, Fuente de la Higuera, Elaine Love, Fernandez, guiri, Harbour Lights, Ian Love, Inmobiliaria Atica, Joaquin, kilometro 26, kilometro cero, La Cascada, local, Love Viviendas, Madrid, Manuel, Moises, Molino del Arco, Molino del Puente,  Montejaque Holiday & Service, Moses, NATO, neighbour, off-duty legionaires, Pablo de Ronda, Paul Whitelock, perezoso, Rhondda Valley, Ronda,  Ronda Realty Properties,  Ronda Valley, Sevilla, Sierra Estates, Simbad, Spanish Foreign Legion, Valle del Tajo, vineyard, winery  

Did you know that in 2023, Oliver was the most common given name in the United Kingdom? That being the case, I’m surprised I only know two Olivers, and neither was born in the UK!

Oliver F, 19, was born in Ronda of English and Hungarian parents, and is a student.

Oliver D, German, is a joiner, who lives in south Germany, in Montejaque’s Twin Town, Knittlingen.

Famous Olivers

I also know “Oliver!”, the musical (1960) and film (1968) based on Charles Dickens’ “Oliver Twist” (1838), written by the late Lionel Bart.

I also knew of and admired the late actor and rabble-rouser Oliver Reed (1938-1999). He was in some memorable films, including the afore-mentioned Oliver!, as  well as Curse of the Werewolf, The Triple Echo, with Glenda Jackson(d), Women in Love, The Devils, and the musical film Tommy! His last film role was in Gladiator in 2000 (it was released a year after his death in 1999.

Oliver Cromwell (1599 – 1658) was an English statesman, politician and soldier, widely regarded as one of the most important figures in the history of the British Isles. He came to prominence during the 1639 to 1653 Wars of the Three Kingdoms, initially as a senior commander in the Parliamentarian army and latterly as a politician. A leading advocate of the execution of Charles I in January 1649, which led to the establishment of The Protectorate, he ruled as Lord Protector from December 1653 until his death in September 1658. Cromwell remains a controversial figure due to his use of the army to acquire political power, and the brutality of his 1649 campaign in Ireland.

In Germany, arguably the greatest ever football goalkeeper for the national team was Oliver Kahn. He is now a big cheese at Bayern Munich and a TV pundit.

He was loathed by English fans, because he was so arrogant, and so bloody good!

Staying in the land of my wife, Rita, there is a fashion brand in Germany called s.Oliver, but it’s out of my price range.

Oliver Hardy (1892-1957), the tubby American half of the comic duo Laurel and Hardy, starred in umpteen Hollywood films of dubious quality.

Oliver Stone, US film director (b. 1946). Stone started his film career writing the screenplays for Midnight Express (1978), for which he won the Academy Award for Best Adapted Screenplay, Conan the Barbarian (1982), and Scarface (1983). He then rose to prominence as writer and director of the Vietnam war film drama Platoon (1986), and Born on the Fourth of July (1989) for which he received Academy Awards for Best Director and Best Picture for the former and Best Director for the latter. He also directed Salvador (1986), Wall Street (1987) and its sequel Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps (2010), The Doors (1991), JFK (1991), Heaven & Earth (1993), Natural Born Killers (1994), Nixon (1995), Any Given Sunday (1999), W. (2008), and Snowden (2016).

Jamie Oliver, the TV chef, I got to know briefly when he filmed in Ronda, Benaojan and the Serranía for one of his TV cooking shows.

One event was especially fun. He learned how to cook a massive paella in Benaojan. Read about it here.

There's a film on YouTube about Jamie's visit to the Serrania de Ronda. Click here.

Oliver is also used for place names. In Spain there is a barrio of Zaragoza that bears the name. In the USA, Oliver is the name of towns in Georgia and Pennsylvania.

“My” Olivers

Oliver D lives in Knittlingen, the German twin-town of Montejaque and Benaojan (Malaga). One day in 2020 I got a phone call out of the blue:

“Hallo! Mein Name ist Oliver. Ich bin ein Freund und Kollege von deinem Stiefsohn Johannes.”

Oliver told me he was a friend and colleague of my German stepson Johannes. They are both cabinet makers/joiners, ie top quality carpenters.

Oliver told me he was planning to come to southern Spain for an extended trip with his young second family: wife Lily, three daughters and a baby son.

He wondered if I could help him out with accommodation, perhaps in exchange for his labours.

Long story short, they stayed in my house in Montejaque rent-free in exchange for work on our three houses. He also picked up a few other paid jobs with local friends and neighbours.

The three girls attended the local colegio and mum Lily enrolled on a local Spanish class.

We struck up a great friendship.

A year later we visited them in Knittlingen during a trip to Rita’s family in Germany, and enjoyed a great lunch with them.

For more on this, click here.

Oliver F is the elder son of friends Nick and Julia, English and Hungarian respectively.

Ollie was born in Ronda and has lived here all his life. He attended local schools until the age of 13 then went off to the alma mater of his father in Somerset, where he sat his A-levels in 2023 gaining a great set of results. He has a place at Exeter University starting in September 2024.

With three schoolfriends Ollie is off to the Far East for four months. In fact, they have just left. In order to finance the trip, they all had to earn a tidy sum.

Ollie has been industrious and hard-working. He has worked on a vineyard in France, in a local hotel, in a couple of local restaurants, and has been a gardener and general dogsbody for his dad, Nick, and for me.

I’m very pleased with what Ollie has done at my place, ranging from strimming, to lawnmowing, from cleaning the pool, to constructing a log store and generally tidying up.

You can read about Ollie’s work for me here.

© Pablo de Ronda

Note: On a similar theme Eye on Spain blogger Only Joe King recently wrote about all the "Lola's" he has known. Click here.

Further reading:

HOW TO ..... build a LOG STORE? (eyeonspain.com)

“Quick! Hire a teenager while they still know everything!” (eyeonspain.com)

Ollie and Lily (eyeonspain.com)

Acknowledgements:

Alamy

Decline21

FilmAffinity

Joe King

Legends

Pablo de Ronda

www.secretserrania.com

Tapas Magazine

Wikipedia

Tags:

Academy Award, Any Given Sunday, Bayern Munich, Benaojan, Best Adapted Screenplay, Best Director, Best Picture, Born on the Fourth of July, cabinet maker, Charles Dickens, cleaning the pool, Conan the Barbarian, Curse of the Werewolf, Exeter University, Gladiator, Glenda Jackson, Heaven & Earth, Jamie Oliver, JFK, joiner, Julia, Knittlingen, Laurel and Hardy, lawnmowing, Lionel Bart, logstore, Lord Protector, Midnight Express, Montejaque, Natural Born Killers, Nick, Nixon,  “Oliver”, Oliver Cromwell, Oliver Hardy, Oliver Kahn, Oliver Reed, Oliver Stone, Oliver Twist, Ollie, Pablo de Ronda, Platoon, Ronda, Salvador, Scarface, Serranía, Snowden, Stan Laurel, strimming, The Devils, The Doors, The Triple Echo, tidying up, Tommy!, vineyard, W, Wall Street, Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps,  Women in Love,