IAN & SPAIN

One of my favourite foods from the Spanish culinary world is cured ham, in particular, Iberian Acorn Ham (Jamon de Bellota Iberica). Which is very different from Serrano Ham or the Italian Prosciutto and is unique to Spain. It is an absolute delicacy and one of the most moreish foods you will encounter! 

Fresh meat has been preserved throughout history and the pig has always played a particularly important role in this practice. This is partly because of its high reproductive capacity, and also due to the varying uses that can be made of its meat and the ease of storing and processing it. The great Mediterranean tradition for cured hams and cold meat products is believed to have originated with the Romans and Greeks as reflected in names such as "longaniza" (cured pork sausage) and "salchicha" (sausage) that come from the Roman lucanica and salsicius. The Mediterranean Diet is more than simply a sum of particular ingredients or recipes and makes better sense when associated with the climate, geography, customs and lifestyles in Mediterranean areas. Iberian Bellota Ham plays a key role in this kind of diet. Not only is it tasty and succulent, but it also has specific properties that make it a unique food product and thus stands out from the other cured hams available throughout the Mediterranean Basin.

Iberian Bellota Ham is a low-calorie food, which is rich in vitamins and contains 50% more protein than fresh meat. A particularly surprising fact! Due to the natural and traditional curing process, Iberian acorn ham is a pure and aseptic food and the meat is free from any kind of manipulation. Iberian acorn ham is not just a food product, but also a delicacy with numerous other qualities. As well as being a pleasure for the palate, it also offers great health benefits.  Iberian ham is full of antioxidants and is high in vitamin E. It is especially beneficial when eaten with tomatoes. Iberian bellota ham contains excellent quality fat, with increased levels of oleic acid (over 50%), as found in olive oil. This facilitates the production of HDL ("good cholesterol") in the body, while reducing LDL ("bad cholesterol"). So when you start to combine extra virgin olive oil, Bellota Ham and other ingredients you can see suddenly how the Spanish diet is in particular so healthy, take a look at my post on “Pan Catalana”, so simple yet so healthy! For these reasons moderate consumption of the product helps to maintain cholesterol levels and prevent cardiovascular diseases as with extra virgin olive oil.

It provides a generous dosage of B group vitamins, especially B1 and B2. Just 100 grams of Iberian acorn ham provides 24% of the recommended daily allowance of this vitamin. It is also rich in iron, magnesium, zinc and calcium and above all phosphorus, providing 30% of the recommended daily allowance. 

It is a recommended food for hypo-calorific diets as 50 grams of our Iberian Bellota Ham has only 150 calories. So is Iberian Bellota ham the same as Jamon de Pata Negra( black hoof ham)? And how does it differ to Serrano Ham? This term “Pata Negra” refers exclusively to races of pigs with black hoofs and does not necessarily refer to Iberian pigs or those of a specific quality as commonly thought. In fact, there are Iberian pigs with different colourings. Serrano ham comes from a white pig which is fed mainly on fodder and is cured for a period of between 7 and 16 months. Gastronomically, serrano jamón is considered inferior to Iberian ham and is dried in a cold dry climate in the hills or mountains.

And Jabugo Ham? Where does this come in? Well, it is a high-quality Iberian Ham which comes from the mountainous region of Huelva. Jabugo is the best known of the mountainous villages. The name comes from the town not the type of ham. Many think cured ham should be salty, and normally find it dry but really if it is fresh and well made it should be juicy and not salty. With regard to the firmness, the ham should be cured to an optimum point, though never too much (this point will vary depending on the part of the ham being cured). One of the differences between a serrano ham and an Iberian ham is the fluidity of the fat. An Iberian ham should always be moister than a serrano and a lot shinier.  It is common to see white dots in Iberian hams that may look like imperfections in the product. However, these dots are produced by the crystallisation of the thyroxine, an amino acid derivative of the proteins that experts consider a sure mark of quality and indicative of a long and unhurried maturing process and a sign of the pig having exercised well while in the pasture, as all pigs raised for Iberian acorn ham are free range and feed on acorns.

The main parts of a cured ham are the maza, the contramaza and the babilla. The maza is the part with the most meat and is the richest and most succulent. The babilla has less jamón as it is confined by the femur and coxal bone. This part is less succulent than the maza so it is recommendable to start cutting here if the cured ham is going to be consumed over a period of time. The part known as the jarrete and the caña are usually diced into cubes of cured ham as the meat has a firmer texture and a different taste. Ham must always be eaten at room temperature in order to enjoy all of its sensual nuances. If the ham has been cut and stored in the refrigerator or comes sliced in a packet, take it out of the refrigerator an hour before eating, to allow it to reach the correct temperature. 

I highly recommend it, as it is a delicacy you will find hard to live without once tasted!

Roasting meat to perfection can often seem like a daunting task. However, simplicity can truly be the key to a delectable dish. Today we will explore a wonderful recipe for Salt-Crusted Pork Loin (Lomo a la Sal), which is both straightforward and effective, promising succulent and flavourful results every time.

Here are the Ingredients you will need for 8 servings:

• 1 kg Pork Loin
• 2 kg Coarse Salt (suitable for roasting)
• Spices to taste
• Provençal Herbs to taste

Method:

Preparation Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 50 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

1. Begin by ensuring the pork loin is clean. Rub it generously with your preferred mixture of spices and aromatic herbs. This can include anything from cumin and paprika to oregano, along with a blend of Provençal herbs. Once the meat is fully coated with the spices and herbs, set it aside while you prepare the salt crust.

2. In a roasting tin or baking dish, spread a layer of coarse salt about one centimetre thick to form a base. Place the seasoned pork loin on top of this bed of salt. Then, cover the pork loin entirely with more coarse salt, ensuring it is well enveloped to form a thick cocoon.

3. Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F). Roast the pork loin for approximately 45 minutes. This duration will yield a juicy and tender result. If you prefer your meat more well-done, you may extend the roasting time to 50 or even 55 minutes for a kilogram of meat.

4. While the pork loin is roasting, you can begin preparing a sauce to accompany it. A simple and flavourful sauce can be made by gently sautéing some onions cut in julienne. Add a splash of white wine and a pinch of flour to the onions, reducing and lightly blending the mixture. Enrich the sauce further with the juices released by the pork loin when it is sliced.

5. Once the pork loin is done roasting, let it rest briefly before breaking away the salt crust. Slice the meat into fine, thin slices.

6. Serve the beautifully moist and tender salt-crusted pork loin with your chosen sauce and your preferred side dishes.

Accompaniments:

To elevate your Salt-Crusted Pork Loin dish, consider serving it with sautéed mushrooms or grilled vegetables as a side. These options complement the rich flavour of the meat wonderfully.

The Technique

Why Salt-Crusting Works:
Salt-crusting is a traditional cooking method where meat (or even fish) is encased in a thick crust of salt before roasting. The key to this method's success lies in the salt's ability to create a seal that prevents moisture from escaping. This means that the pork loin remains incredibly juicy and tender, while also absorbing the flavours of the herbs and spices used in the rub.

Versatility:
Despite its simplicity, the salt-crust method allows for a great deal of flexibility with seasoning. You can experiment with a variety of spice blends, herbs, and even incorporate some citrus zest to infuse the meat with diverse flavours.

Presentation:
Cracking open the salt crust at the table adds an element of theatre to your meal. It’s a great way to impress your guests and highlight the effort you've put into preparing a memorable dinner.

Making the Most of Your Pork Loin

Beyond its use as a centrepiece roast, the leftovers from your Salt-Crusted Pork Loin can be versatile. Thin slices of the pork loin can be used in sandwiches and salads, providing a light yet flavourful protein. Additionally, you can use the pork in cold cuts, making it an excellent addition to a charcuterie board.

Complementary Sauces

As the original article suggests, this dish does not inherently produce a sauce. Hence, preparing a complementary sauce is essential to round out the meal. Some classic options include:

1. Spanish Sauce:
A rich brown sauce made with onions, carrots, celery, flour, and beef stock simmered and strained. This traditional sauce melds perfectly with the savoury pork loin.

2. Mushroom Gravy:
A creamy mushroom sauce made by sautéing mushrooms in butter, adding flour, and deglazing with white wine and cream. The umami flavour of the mushrooms pairs beautifully with the pork.

3. Mustard Sauce:
A quick and tangy mustard sauce made with Dijon mustard, honey, and a splash of cream. This sauce adds a delightful sharpness to counterbalance the richness of the meat.

Suggested Side Dishes

1. Sautéed Mushrooms:
Quickly cooked in butter and garlic, these add a depth of flavour and a slight chewiness that complements the tender pork.

2. Roast Vegetables:
Carrots, parsnips, and Brussels sprouts roasted until caramelized provide a sweet and earthy counterpoint to the savoury pork.

3. Mashed Potatoes:
Creamy and rich mashed potatoes serve as a perfect bed to soak up any delicious sauces you have prepared.

Roasting a Salt-Crusted Pork Loin is an exquisite way to achieve perfectly cooked, juicy, and flavourful meat with minimal fuss. This method, while simple, guarantees impressive results that will delight your guests. Paired with a well-chosen sauce and complementary side dishes, it makes for an unforgettable meal.

Feel free to experiment with the recipe and make it your own. By adjusting the spice rub and trying out different side dishes, you can tailor this classic roast to suit any occasion. Serve it up at your next dinner party, and watch as your guests marvel at your culinary prowess.

Enjoy!

‘L’arròs amb fesols i naps’ is a well-known Valencian dish also known as “Caldera”, ‘Olla de San Antón’ ò “Olla Pobre” (poor man’s pot). Whichever way you call it, it is a fantastic dish, which is ever so easy to make. Commonly made all around the Valencian Community during village festivities it is on a par with Paella when it comes to feeding large crowds. Traditionally made in tall cauldron pots, it can be just as easily made at home in a large casserole pot.

In the Valencian village of El Puig de Santa Maria, cooking rice in the town square has become a yearly tradition as it marks one of the highlights of their patron saint festivities - feeding the village. San Pere is a rather unusual festivities with numerous spectacles - apart from enjoying a hot plate of hearty rustic food - they also have the rather unusual tradition of throwing rats around the town square, yes! Rats! Fortunately, it is not on the same day so there is no chance of a stray rodent flying into the cooking pots! San Pere is celebrated on the last Sunday of January each year, this year it falls on the 26th.

Usually cooked over a log fire made with orange tree wood, it is custom to prepare this on the day of the villages’ patron saint and a plate is handed out to anyone who wants one. It is not unusual to see Falleros preparing it during the Fallas festivities too.

In English, we would call it ‘Rice with beans and swede’ although it does have some meat in it as well. The basic ingredients include pork (ear, snout, trotters, nowadays some lean pork is included and sometimes bacon), white sausage, onion morcillas, white beans, swedes (also known as yellow turnip), and edible cardoon, round Valencian rice, paprika and salt. As with many dishes born out of poverty, this one is no different, nowadays it isn’t unusual to find versions which substitute some of the cheaper cuts of pork for beef or lamb which also reduces the fat content and calorie count! Additionally, other areas such as L’Horta near the camp de Turia will substitute the white beans for garrafón, the large flat bean used in paellas. However, in all cases the essential ingredient that always characterises the flavour of this dish is swede, which gives a lovely sweet touch to the broth.

This rice broth or ‘arroz caldoso’ as we would call it is without a doubt the most widely established dish in the Valencian Community especially this time of year. It is, after the paella, probably the most popular rice dish for the locals and still greatly unknown by foreigners but the ritual behind this recipe does stir up a lot of curiosity. It is enjoyed throughout the L'Horta Nord (the northern region of Valencia famous for its vegetable fields)

In Vinalesa, a village in L’horta Nord they prepare their version of this dish on the 13 and 14 of October during their annual festivities. It is a recipe that is traditionally cooked by men, as with paella, in fact in Spain, men normally prepare any recipe that involves firewood. It’s sort of like the caveman syndrome. If it needs fire it’s a man’s job if it needs sweat, it for the women, that’s why the women the day before have to peel all the vegetables and are known as the ‘peladores’ or ‘the peelers’ while the men cut up the meat and prepare the wood. It’s kind of like a barbecue back home; it’s a man’s thing isn’t it? Nonetheless, all are happy and a huge quantity of food is prepared and given out to all the village.

In Godella, the Clavarios de San Antonio prepare this rice dish, en Masalfasar they also make this dish for the day of San Anton which has just past and they call it Poorman’s Pot: ‘Olla Pobre’. In Almàssera they call it ‘Caldera’, en Estivella they prepare it for the day of San Blas, en Alaquas they celebrate ‘El Porrat’ en honour of San Francisco de Paula on the 23rd of March and hand out this dish to anyone who happens to pass by. In Foios, Villarmarxante, Olocao and practically every other village in the community will have a special day for preparing this rice broth. It is unique and well worth trying. After the paella, it doesn’t get much more Valencian.

Here is the basic recipe for 6 people : 

300g Round Rice from Valencia
300g White Beans (soaked in water overnight)
300g Pork pieces (ears & snout)
300g Lean Beef in 3 large pieces
1 Pig’s tail cut into pieces
3 Pigs trotters cut into pieces
200g Pork Pancetta / un-smoked bacon
2 Onion Morcilla
1 Large White sausage – Blanquet
3 Medium-sized swedes
2 sticks of edible cardoon
3 medium-sized Potatoes
2 tsp. Paprika (de la Vera)
Saffron
Salt           

The process is really very simple. Fill a large deep stew pot with 3 litres of water. It should fill the pot to about ¾’s of its maximum volume. Start to heat up the water on a medium heat with a large pinch of salt.

Once the water is hot, add all the meat to the water, cut it up previous into manageable pieces, but not too small so they are easy to remove afterwards if you don’t want to eat them. I am not a great fan of ears, snout or trotters, so I just use them for flavour and separate them afterwards. I prefer the beef and pancetta with the morcillas and the white sausage. It is important to remember to create a cross on either end of the morcillas with toothpicks otherwise they will disintegrate in the broth. Once all the meat is in, let it cook for an hour or so. 

Now you will need to add the swedes and the cardoon. Don’t chop the swedes up too small; they should be in medium-sized chunks/pieces. Let it cook on low heat for another hour. 

Now we will add a pinch of saffron and the paprika. Remember we should always cook the paprika before adding it to any dish, so get a small frying pan and add a little extra virgin olive oil, heat up the oil and add the paprika, stir it and fry it for a few seconds and then add a ladle of stock to the pan from the pot, stir around and pour it all back into the stew pot and mix in. 

Now we need to add the potatoes and the beans. Cut the potatoes into medium-sized chunks. After 10 minutes we will need to add the rice but check for salt before doing so. Once the rice has been added stir in and cook(simmer) for a further 15 minutes and then remove from the heat. If the rice is still a little tough it will continue cooking in the stock so don’t worry.

That’s it. Serve up in a bowl or deep plate with a mixed salad and fresh crusty bread with a glass of red wine. It is also customary to eat this with raw sweet onion cut into pieces and sprinkled onto the plate. Then again if you find this too complicated and happen to be within driving distance of El Puig, why not pop along on Sunday  29th and get a plate from the experts?

ENJOY!

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